morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

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9

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607

Joined

2 yr. ago

Most of the comments focus on death states, as far as I recall you can totally beat TES 3 Morrowind after an essential npc dies. The game will tell you it's doomed and will prompt you to load a save, but you are largely able to continue, just have to live with the consequences, it might be a pain to do or rely on cheese, but apparently technically possible.

First things first, check your z offset petg doesn't like being over squished and will lose adhesion because of it. The other thing you should do is ensure your surface is clean, depending on your surface a quick wash with soapy water and a brush is a good idea (some surfaces explicitly say not to do this, my buildtak surface called this out as something not to do), 99% IPA is decent at cleaning between prints but it's a good idea to periodically degrease your surface.

In my experience, adhesion issues with petg have almost always been due to residual oils (fingerprints) or bad 1st layer squish. I print in an enclosure, for me I absolutely require cooling, Prusa's knowledge base is a good place to start as well.

Wait that's not on steam anymore? Is there an easy way to find what in your library can't be purchased anymore?

It's Prusa's favourite for a reason. I like the look a lot so that combined with it being strong and non-crossing is why I use it.

Spares have saved my ass many a time, easy to swap now and refurb later. Do you have any idea how the fan managed to fail right at the joint? I wouldn't think that'd be under much, if any, stress. Did it just vibrate itself to death?

Crave /w HBO is near 26, add that in to the number as the streaming libraries are so fractured these days you pretty much are going to bounce between them.

I've gone back to grabbing physical releases and ripping them, I'm really tired of what streaming has become.

Can't link directly but from the gov site there ar 6 under review

33, Canada, yes I can drive standard.

I learned on a 1990 corolla, my partner can't drive standard so when we downsized a few years ago we kept her car. I miss it for the around town trips but I'm not upset to drive automatic when I have to (rarely) commute. I also really liked it for winter driving, definitely felt more in control, that little corolla could plow through snow and ice like it was nothing.

Pretty much everyone on my side of the family learned on standard, drove for a while, but now more or less has a vehicle with automatic.

I set my klipper and superslicer up to enable individual object cancellations, really nice to be b able to scrap things without wasting an entire print.

I used this daily, had so many hours logged pre getting everything on steam. Was actually just talking about it not that long ago, was such a big part of my highschool years.

It's something that's going to be different per filament Ellis' Guide has a good write up. I found with a 0.6mm nozzle I was getting ridges and stuff in the edges noted that it built up on the nozzle and then deposited blobs throughout the print. Reducing anything that can cause the nozzle to come in contact with material helps too, I use gyroid instead of grid because it doesn't cross itself for example.

It was absolutely noticeable, I'm using Canadian Filaments - Carbon Capture PETG for reference. I'd also look at drying the filament if possible can help with stringing

Try tuning your extrusion multiplier, I've found that petg blobs up the nozzle if you don't slightly underextrude it, running 94% on my filament on the cold side but could probably go down lower, 94% almost completely did away with blobbing issues.

I've always understood petg to really like cooling but I print in an enclosure so YMMV, it's absolutely awful for bridges without cooling. Another thing to check would be extrusion multiplier and retraction. I get nozzle buildup if it's overextruding which leads to blobs and stringing, worth tuning that anyhow

I will say that the mk3s I'm using honestly just works, I've done some tweaks to improve cooling, swapped to a dragon hotend and all abs parts (and some enclosure upgrades I've put together), it's stupid reliable and when things go wrong it's often my fault. I swapped to a dragon literally because my hamfisted nozzle changes have ended up with a few wrecked thermistors and I'm done with 2 handed nozzle changes. They're pricey but it comes with amazing support, great knowledge base (which is open to all) and a well vetted machine. I also like my voron but I bought the prusa originally to have something I can fall back to if need be.

What's your print fan set to? I've had better results with fixed fan speed and much higher than default, but I use an enclosure. Is it popping or skipping? You'll hear clicking if the filament skips, happens if you feed too fast, partial clogs etc. What brand petg? 260 seems high-ish, I tend to print hot in general but petg is usually 245-250 depending on the filament. What's your speed like? If you're enclosed definitely crank the print fan and maybe try slowing down.

Is your hotend clogged? Petg is the only filament I've had clogging issues with in the past. While printing, is it trying to cling to the nozzle? I've also found petg can try to climb up the nozzle, solved with a sock.

Prusa has a stellar knowledge base for their printers as well as general info that can be applied to most other printers. You'll get some pla with the printer and I recommend loading the silver one to do the calibration with. You're looking for enough squish, there's a long lead in before the square for you to live adjust z, basically want a nice square that's cohesive but not peeling up in the corners, too low can cause adhesion problems as well. There's a good bunch of sample pictures on the prusa knowledge base.

Ellis' Print Tuning Guide is another solid resource that's applicable to most printers, not just vorons, the first layer squish is detailed and can help give you some more samples of what you're looking for. Just make sure your sheet and nozzle are clean before you start, cold nozzle ooze can impact your z calibration.

I wish there were comparable products because I want that build surface for my voron, it's just a bit smaller than an xl so there'd be some overhang.

There's a reason my mk3s is the one I have as a fallback. It's really easy to service and I find it doesn't need a whole heck of a lot of tweaking. I imagine not having to set z height is nice but I haven't found the need to change it once it's dialed in as I pretty much only use the satin build plate and don't change nozzles often.

Adhesion I'd totally recommend cleaning your surface with soap and water (surface depending) and then messing with temps. With abs and petg I've found that even a bit of finger print residue is enough to cause a part to come away from the bed, next I'd check first level height. I've very rarely found the bed temp to be the reason I lost adhesion.

Superslicer and prusaslicer let you upload and print directly to a networked printer, I have my prusa on octoprint and voron on mainsail, keep my profiles on my network share to keep in sync between devices