morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

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9

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608

Joined

2 yr. ago

Superslicer and prusaslicer let you upload and print directly to a networked printer, I have my prusa on octoprint and voron on mainsail, keep my profiles on my network share to keep in sync between devices

Honestly this is the way for pretty much all surfaces, exception if the surface tells you not to use certain cleaners (I have one that says to not use soap, only IPA).

It does totally leave residue so I wipe down with IPA, but it does a better job specifically with fingerprints than IPA (at least in my experience). Ultimately best cleaner has been dish soap and water, I have a spray bottle mixed up that I keep around for cleaning, just needs to be rinsed and dry which I found an IPA wipe down after the soapy water spray does a decent enough job. These are all things I do when I don't want to take the entire sheet to a sink and do a scrub.

Windex actually works pretty well but I follow that up with some IPA just to remove any residue. IPA itself isn't a great degreaser (apparently it just kinda smears things around), but it's decent for surface maintenance.

I follow what prusa recommends, warm soapy water and a light scrubbing every so often. I actually haven't done much to my satin sheet in months beyond IPA between prints, in my experience you're pretty much the biggest source of oil that can be on your print surface so also practice not touching the surface as much as possible.

Check your paper towels as well, some brands have oils or softeners in them that undo all your cleaning

Windex actually works pretty well but I follow that up with some IPA just to remove any residue. IPA itself isn't a great degreaser (apparently it just kinda smears things around), but it's decent for surface maintenance.

I follow what prusa recommends, warm soapy water and a light scrubbing every so often. I actually haven't done much to my satin sheet in months beyond IPA between prints, in my experience you're pretty much the biggest source of oil that can be on your print surface so also practice not touching the surface as much as possible.

Check your paper towels as well, some brands have oils or softeners in them that undo all your cleaning. Also you probably should wear gloves with 99% IPA, it's really rough on your skin and you probably should be careful with the vapours too

I love prusament filaments but with shipping and duties I don't keep them stocked. I'm not sure who supplies it but I've had solid results out of spool3d.ca abs and petg filament, also really like Canada Filament's carbon capture PETG, stocking up on more of that and the carbon capture pla. Had really nice results out of Worday ABS as well.

Luck of the draw, could be bad out of the gate, my prusa mk3 had the exact same thing happen less than a month after running it. If you can, add a pinned connection, makes swapping thermistors super easy as a lot of places sell cartridges with microfit connectors.

When I had it happen it wasn't always a problem, was only on certain movements and then it'd error on thermal runaway. I'd say change it anyhow as it's simple to do and you eliminate a cause, best to start with the easy things.

To echo others, make sure your print surface is clean and oil free, soap and water with a gentle scrub is good maintenance (unless your surface explicitly says not to, buildtak came with a big warning to only clean with IPA) and absolutely avoid things like acetone to clean it, IPA is alright to clean between batches.

I've not seen pla lose adhesion like that, Do you have some pictures of what your first layer tests look like? Curling I've seen when your nozzle is too close to the surface, some of the worst adhesion issues I've had are because of that specifically on petg and somewhat on abs. But try to eliminate one variable at a time, get your surface oil free and then check your first layer again.

Does it happen everywhere or just on the edges of the plate?

Controlling for other settings, I find petg strings pretty badly when the filament isn't dry. I'd really recommend trying dry filament and/or drying yours out. Petg always seems to string a little in my experience, just not to that level

I pretty much only use petg and abs. Petg really likes to ooze, I put a retract of 10-15mm at print end, I'd recommend bringing up to print temp only when you need to (heatup bed and set the nozzle to 150, do your bed level, then heat to print temp, my voron does that and has way less ooze). It also, at least for me, loves to cling to the nozzle so nozzle cleanliness is key, I use a sock that covers all but the very tip of the nozzle which made a world of difference. First layer height is really important with that as well, too high and it just sticks to itself and makes a mess.

Check your filament as well, I personally like to go as hot as possible with petg as it seems to flow better, the one I have right now is 230-250 with a bed of 70-90, 245 and 80 works well for that. Bridging and overhangs can be not great, had better luck with faster bridge speeds and high fan speeds.

Keep your surface clean, light brushing with warm soapy water is good periodic maintenance, I wipe down with 99 ipa to keep my sheet clean, ipa isn't the best degreaser but it's good to keep it maintained. Windex and then a wipe down with ipa has worked for me too.

I don't recommend printing directly on PEI, at least the prusa PEI sheet, it adheres extremely well to the point of tearing off PEI chunks, gluestick works well as a release agent. Textured sheets are nice and they self release when cold.

Key take aways though, keep everything super clean as bad adhesion is a bad time. I have had better luck with running things on the hotter end and turn up the cooling as I print in an enclosure. Get a dry box, I have a few desicant filled boxes as it really likes moisture.

Qucik edit: Prusa has some solid material guides for recommendations and things to know about different materials. Petg will adhere to surfaces strongly, I just saw you use a glass sheet and I've read some annedotal stories of people literally pulling chunks of glass off with a petg print, definitely use a gluestick or some other material for bed release, make your life easier.