morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

Posts

9

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607

Joined

2 yr. ago

Heat soak, abs especially I like to give at least 45 minutes to an hour

I print mainly in abs and petg, my enclosed mk3s+ is more sensitive than my voron in the cold as it has a lower wattage heated bed and the panels are thinish plexi vs the aluminum composite on the voron (still would be better if I insulated). I'm in southern Ontario so it's not crazy cold but it's usually sub -10c for a good chunk of the winter, a small space heater is enough to bring my garage to 10-15c if I'm going to be working out there, but it's often enough to just use the space heater to boost the enclosure to that temp, both of them can keep the enclosures above 30-40c in the winter, I've never had issue with warping due to enclosure temps, usually adhesion due to residual oils on the build plate.

With a proper environment control, probably have even less issues, temp stability in my experience matters the most, longer soaks are my normal practice in the winter just to ensure I hit a good equilibrium and try to get around and thermal expansion issues.

The last of us had people involved with creating the source material, I look at the expanse TV series as a good example solid adaptation, ty and Daniel (the book authors) were producers and writers for the show so it kept its spirit Imo. Stuff changed for tv, characters were merged etc but it worked.

Nah I'm not unfortunately, my desktop is running windows but everything else uses various flavours of debian.

It's the reason I jumped on a cheap solidworks license, was fully intending to use it as my primary cad package but I just found it kinda clunky. To be super fair, I recall using it years ago and it's come a long way and I run it on my lab machine because Linux, but even not touching cad programs for almost a decade solidworks was just way easier to come back to.

The Future: More of the Present by Jake Likes Onions

https://jakelikesonions.com/post/158707858999/the-future-more-of-the-present

Every time I think it's not the filament being wet, it's the filament being wet. Was chasing some blobbing and stinging on petg, swapped to a new spool of a trusted brand and it pretty much all went away. I really should dry all new spools but especially cheap or unknown brands, I'm definitely going to dry before using.

Original often tastes like what I imagine a cup of water someone has put their cigarette butts into, found it pretty variable from place to place and time of day, you do sometimes get alright coffee. I tend to drink coffee black but I totally understand why so many people get double doubles at Tims.

Stringing and nozzle buildup are the general signs I get with petg being damp, extreme cases it'll have noticeable bubble, I've found that I need to run 12+ hours at 54c to dry it sufficiently, even on relatively fresh spools depending on the supplier, age etc. I also recommend securing your spools if they're paper based, had the adhesive melt on one and the entire thing fall to pieces, I just rewound it onto an empty plastic spool I had.

Edit. I just looked at the pics, yeah it also looks like you have some overexrusion, I tend to slightly underextrude petg because of nozzle buildup. I'd start with the standard prusa profiles and tweak from there, generally had good luck modifying the prusament profiles to work with other filament.

I actually had a hell of a time with petg with a 0.6mm cht on a dragon hf, ended up going back to a nozzle x because of it. I also found the bimetal cht nozzles really fragile, like 1.5 Nm torque from one of those slice preset wrenches and I'd still manage to have them shear off in the block after a few nozzle changes.

What did help was lowering the temps and being aggressive with the retraction speed (went up to 50mm/s if I recall), but even then the cht nozzles oozed a lot with petg, could have tuned a bit more but as I said I ended up going back to my other nozzles.

Kept the dragon though and actually swapped my mk3s over because I like that the block is fixed for nozzle changes and actually changed my voron to a dragon UHF that seems to be working well so far.

For real, I use(d) bandcamp for a good chunk of my music discovery and a not insignificant amount of my album purchases. A lot of small/indie labels provide bandcamp codes with vinyl and cassettes which honestly makes me want to support those labels more as while I like to collect physical releases, I'm 9 times out of 10 going to be listening digitally.

This was linked as an answer in an Microsoft answers thread with this being the thread in question. Honestly I have no idea why it was removed, and I'm pretty simple with a top taskbar. I know a few people who use side taskbars pretty heavily.

Check the mk3s printable parts , every motor on the mk3 is mounted using printed brackets, abs/Asa holds up really well and honestly petg does as well, I had a petg failure on my x axis after doing days of enclosed abs printing which says a lot considering it was easily 50+ deg c in the enclosure. I've since put probably a few thousand hours since rebuilding with abs and have had no issues with the printed parts.

Vorons also use printed motor mounts and they also hold up with high enclosure temps for extended periods

My minor but really irritating gripe is the unmovable taskbar (which I'm not sure if this has changed or not), I've been a top taskbar person since xp and it doesn't make sense to me to remove a feature like that. Apparently there are Reg hacks or third party tools to do what I want but I really shouldn't have to resort to that Imo.

Yes 100%, it's a executive functioning disorder which affects things like emotional regulation and impulse control, it's not as simple as being easily distracted there's so much more to the condition.

For me, emotional regulation and impulse control are my struggles, all of which would be a problem even without capatilism. I was late diagnosed at 31, but meds have been the single biggest change for me in combination with therapy, my anxiety and ruminating thoughts basically totally disappeared overnight. Is it a magic cure all? No not at all, I still absolutely have ADHD, it's just enabling me to handle it without relying on the maladaptive coping mechanisms I developed in the past.

Pre meds, in retrospect, my ADHD was 100% a strain on my relationship, there's a lot to dive into for details but I know I'm not alone there.

As a solution for me, I grabbed a fiio brt3k. Supports the highres Bluetooth codecs and can totally be used as a usbc dac. I got a pair of the samsung beans with my last phone and just hate them, this lets me use any pair of wired headphones I want.

I still want a proper on board dac and a headphone jack but it's what I have to work with

Oh eww I haven't booted insomnia in a bit, that's irritating. From a quick glance this looks solid, going to give it a try.

Second this, I run mainsail for my voron and octoprint for my prusa, mainsail is just way nicer of an interface Imo, especially on mobile.

Didn't even know about the prusa toolbox so totally going to print that and the nozzle insert, thanks for sharing!

That looks like what I've had with bad thermistors or wiring on the edge of totally breaking, surprised it didn't trip any thermal protection, when that happened on my prusa it estopped and my Voron did as well. I def recommend keeping a pile of thermistors with microfit connectors, they're pretty cheap and they can go bad, it's an easy debug step to swap a thermistor out to rule out wiring issues.