IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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25

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902

Joined

2 yr. ago

For PETG that's not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you've said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.

This did it, thanks!

lol, no outline on images does make browing tiles that contain screen shots difficult

TIL: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lorem_ipsum

In publishing and graphic design, Lorem ipsum is a placeholder text commonly used to demonstrate the visual form of a document or a typeface without relying on meaningful content

PRC

How on Earth do you have a mix of Communism and Capitalism

Arguably, the PRC is juggling both. I don't claim to be an expert, but there are certain capitalist undercurrents going on in the private sector along with some level of CCP tension.

Pandora will play a lot of repeats :( it also seems to stick to "safer" (eg popular) songs. I've had much better luck with YouTube music. I've found a lot of eclectic, but very good, music using it.

https://ingenext.ca/products/boost-50

50 hp for $1k

I can't find them right now, but there are similar things you can buy to unlock factory features at a discount.

That you're looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with "2mm flange mount" you'll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you'll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you're not looking at big loads.

They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren't even disposong of them correctly most of the time

This is what really gets me with resin printing :(

Aluminum's expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let's say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That's in total, so the effect at the print head isn't 0.35mm, but let's say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That's 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.

2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.

Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08

I'm surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).

Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset

Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.

That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I've not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won't even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.

If you're a Klipper user, odds are you'll have easy access to both print hours and filament length extruded. Some marlin printers also track this information as well.

Granted, nozzle wear is also filament specific, but it's better than nothing.

Let's start backwards:

• If you want to print larger and/or high aspect ratio (say greater than 1:2 in terms of x:y or y:x) you'll need an enclosure. You'll likely need to actively heat it with bedfans. It's also worth saying that you can run a fan with ASA/ABS, but only if your chamber is warm. Think 55-60 °C. As with other filament, fan generally helps quality. If you're not able to crack 50 °C you should probably run fan off aside from overhangs
• These chamber temps mean you'll probably want your electronics outside the chamer
• CoreXY printers lend themselves to being enclosed. Bonus points if the enclosure is easy to open if you want to print something like PLA, PETG, etc. I've found that bigger PETG prints do benefit from being enclosed, but I open the top of my enclosure
• CoreXY printers can be pretty quick. If you want to print quickly you'll need an extruder that can keep up. Also note that mechanical speed only gets you so far. If you want to really drop print time you need bigger extrusions (width and height), which again means high flow needs

All of this sounds somewhat expensive TBH. Consider why you're considering a new printer then ask yourself what on the market will help meet those needs - especially at your price point.

Haha, just like most brown sugar. Spoiler: it's usually white sugar with molasses added back in.

Up front disclaimer: this is all conjure on my part.

I own an "AI" laptop (only because I was interested in a snapdragon x). Most of the AI enabled features don't really require a NPU, such as a decent background camera blur, some paint and photo stuff, live captions, etc. Microsoft was looking for a headline feature that didn't already have a CPU/GPU/cloud implementation. Enter: recal.

IMO this is very much about finding a novel feature, that doesn't have an alternate implementation. The near term motive is to justify their "AI" PCs to customers in hops that customers adopt them. I suspect the long term goal is opening up a revenue stream for AI - get customers used to "AI enabled" features and then tack a subscription cost onto them, but I truly hope this won't be the case - especially when the hardware you own has a NPU.

I think antidepressants should pretty much always be paired with other support or lifestyle changes though.

I completely agree with you. That's not the experience my wife has had though. Finding the right professional to work with has been a challenge for her and her general practitioner has prescribed her SSRIs on more than one occasion without providing any guidance/assistance beyond "take this to feel better".

Others have alread hit on the reason: likely fresher kernals plus a special corn breed that's optimized for popcorn.

At our local farmer's market (decent sized city) there's a guy that sells about 15 different verities of corn for popping. The sheer number of breeds of things are truly eye watering. We have a home garden, and even when we're growing "green beans" we can be growing one of like 75 different breeds of bean that all have their own characteristics. It's actually kind of funny that grocery stores will market which kind of apple you're buying but they won't do so for things like "red grapes", "yellow peaches", or "sweet corn".

Very cool! What kind of optical quality do you get? The action shot on thingiverse is pretty low resolution :( what does it look like at higher magnification? Any depth of field fun going on thanks to the big sensor?

A few days ago were you printing the same part or a different one? Has anything at all changed with your setup or slicing?

Things I would go after, in order:

• clean your bed. As others have said, use warm water and dish soap with a clean sponge (or just use your fingers). Dry with paper towel or air dry. Don't use a towel
• what does the first layer on this print look like relative to your prior prints? Does it have less squish?
• add a brim and/or mouse ears
• protect against drafts by printing your part inside a draft shield
• enclosure! You could probably leave the top open. That's how I print PETG in my Voron

I'm personally not a fan of glue or adhesion aids, but to each their own. I've had the magnetic build plate pulled up, along with the print, from my bed due to warping in the past, but the warping was due to printing a big part in too cold of an environment. Once I addressed that, my problem went away.