IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

Posts

25

Comments

902

Joined

2 yr. ago

Let's skip favorite and instead answer fun find that I've come back to a few times: Brothers of Metal - Kaunaz Dagaz (it is in English, lol). It's viking metal, and as went through highschool with Blind Guardian and Rhapsody, it's great to find bands still making banging fantasy metal https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=Nzad__XGDbQ&si=atuCBlgpMSQ9UkRL

I've also been a fan of Bloodywood lately. Think an angrier Hybrid Theory Lincoln Park, but from India and with some fusion going on. Machi Bhased is a good toe in the water https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=3kLKYWDQVec&si=xsmCHcr6llZdaAWc as is Dana-Dan: https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=uo6OC34QjY0&si=6SxQ6T9MwvRUdlJF

Arm band! I have a generic one I got on Amazon and it's been very handy. It does slowly slide down my arm over 45 minutes or so, but I don't really know how anything else would do better without being even tighter or having a more grippy material that I don't really want again my skin.

I wonder how they calculated the range. If it's representative of the real world drive cycle these will experience, the estimate might not be too far off. A postal route is constant low speed stop and go. Regen is much more effective at higher speeds, so they're probably dumping most of their kenetic energy to hear via friction brakes. Suspect their drive cycle is going to be something like an endless cycle of 25 kw acceleration, rest, 25 kw acceleration, rest, etc.

I am somewhat tempted to sign up and give it a shot. DDG is pretty solid for me, but it would be interesting to try a search engine where I'm not the product, it is.

... There's a setting to auto play gifs I just found. Does it not work and/or loop?

Inline gifs!

Cross posts, or links around Lemmy generally, also open in an embedded version of my default web browser (Firefox), which present the native Lemmy UI. This is a bigger one for me, but I don't run into it often.

If the biggest portion of your bill is AC and you live in a hot area the only things I could think of are planting some trees if they'll grow and using a programmable thermostat to shift your usage away from off peek as best you can.

It was mostly for our younger kids. We live in a smaller ranch, so we close their doors after they're asleep so we don't have to worry about waking them up. This made one of their rooms a bit warmer In the summer and a bit cooler in the winter.

I should probably try balancing the ducts to compensate and might do that this winter.

Look up "home energy monitor". They install inside your panel. The one we have has a bunch of current clamps, but not enough for our huge panel, so I chose what I thought our more heavily used circuits were. It also measures line voltage. Voltage x current = bingo. I'm not completely sure how I feel about the one I bought, so I'm not going to call it out. I wish it flagged trends per circuit over time to catch things like failing appliances. I could root it and mod it, but it would be nice if it did it out of the box. Catching a failing appliance would more than pay for the device, even if you do it by hand by simply tracking the data. It has slightly changed our habits (see: the furnace blower that we left on all the time and was pulling a constant 500 watts aka 12 kwh/day aka 360 kwh/mo), but I wouldn't expect to find anything crazy unless you have high usage.

At least (some of us) are getting money back, when your solar production exceeds your consumption. But that is going to change soon.

The same thing is happening in the US. Solar panels used to be a lot more expensive to install, but the amount many utilities would pay your for excess generation was also a lot higher.

A $400 bill at $0.50 per kwh is 800 kwh. Our electricity usage in the month of August was 787 kwh. I wired an energy meter into my circuit panel a month ago, so I can break that down:

• 210 kwh for EV charging. I don't drive a ton and can also charge at work sometimes. This is 27% of our total
• 130 kwh for AC. We live in SE MI, so it's not hot. We keep our AC set to 75 when it's on. These two combined are now 40% of our bill
• 62 kwh for my work desk (hybrid work) and deep freeze
• 61 kwh for our furnace blower motor. This one surprised me. We were leaving it on the low setting to equalize temperature. On the low speed it pulls 500 watts, or 12 kwh/day. It obviously pulls more power when the AC is on
• 61 kwh for our fridge
• 28 kwh for our washing machine and gas dryer
• now we're in odds and ends territory. 17 kwh for our instant Hot water (tea), 12 kwh for our sump pump and dehumidifier, 11 for our dishwasher, 8 for the TV (old fluorescent)/garage/ps5/modem/route, 7 for the microwave
• another 100 or so that doesn't have a clamp on the breaker

If you don't have an EV and you're really keeping your AC at 84 I strongly suspect you have a failing appliance. Unless you live in Phoenix and have a massive and very poorly insulated house or something.

During covid (I was doing remote work, so basically no EV charging), our old dishwasher finally stopped working with a dryer heater error code. When we replaced it our electric bill fell by a double digit percentage (I want to say 20%+) year over year.

As for things like insulation, going from 3" of 1969 insulation to a massive quantity of blown in helped our winter heating bill (gas) a lot more than our summer AC bill.

Good luck!

So, the biggest difference in quality is the steel and hardness.

My question was rooted in how you would know the quality/hardness of the steel at time of purchase - especially as a (fairly) layperson.

I think my set is dewalt. It included taps, dies, and drill bits for M3-M7. I don't think I've ever used the drills, and the have gotten a lot more use than the dies, but I think I've used almost everything in the kit more than once. Before kids, it was cars. Post kids, it's mostly cheap Chinese furniture my wife buys that I have to chase threads in to get it to assembly well.

Also, for the record, you can absolutely tap plastic for a reasonably strong thread

I've had pretty good success sizing 3D printed holes to be interference fit. That's how I designed/printed the bed leveling thumb wheels for my i3 clone. They backed off far less frequently than the stock metal once.

If it's stripped, I doubt chasing the threads with a m4 tap will accomplish much. Tapping it for the next size up (m5) seems like a good choice.

What would you consider a high quality tap or die? I have a cheap(er) set that I got at home cheapo. With how little use it gets, its biggest issue is surface rust from sitting in my garage 24/7.

You can always talk and express yourself! Absolutely no one will be upset if you do, assuming you don't have wildly unpopular opinions and/or aren't interested in rehashing politically fraught issues for the upteenth time. Find a vaguely appropriate community here and go nuts.

Building an audience over time is exactly how blogs, and publishing in general, work unless you start off with a lot of advertising or endorsements. For better or worse, there's far more content than there is time for a large audience to read it all.

This gives you three choices:

• specialize and post in an existing community that's aligned with that specialization. People will nearly always engage, especially if the content is good
• specialize and start your own blog. You could even try seeding it by referring people to it from already existing specialized communities. People will know what to expect content wise and keep coming back if the subject you're talking about is interesting to them and the content is good
• don't specialize and strike out on your own. If the content is good and you stick with it your audience will eventually grow. This will probably take more time because your audience will initially be looking for content that relates to what they've seen in the past, but what you're really offering is your personality, writing style, world view, etc

Personally, if I'm looking for engagement I choose the first option.

Believe me, no one here is going to be upset if you write some interesting content. The real challenge will be whether or not your content find traction with the masses.

Both Lemmy and Reddit also favor new content over existing content, so expect decreasing engagement with a post as time wears on. This is different than a traditional forum, where a new comment will bump the whole thread.

I've kicked off a few good conversations here with OC, granted my posts tend to be more project/image based than what you're thinking.

That's nuts to me. We paid around $1.2k for our 55" about 10 years ago. 77" also feels way too big for our space, but it would be nice to jump up from 1080 and have more contrast/dynamic range, etc. I recently bought a laptop with a 3k OLED display and it's beautiful. An OLED TV seens like it would be amazing.

Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.

Suggestions:

Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you've eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions

Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.

Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?

I feel old, but also haven't bought a TV in ages so I don't really know the market. 55" used to be very large unless you wanted to shell out serious $$

Ah, sorry. That does sound a bit hot for PLA. I still suggest a temp tower. If you're having bed adhesion issues, have you cleaned your bed with dish soap lately? Be sure to use only paper towel to clean/dry it - not a sponge or towel. If that's impractical, I've found Windex to work better than IPA.