IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

Posts

25

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902

Joined

2 yr. ago

Just an option to throw on the table: https://openscan.eu/

What are you overwhelmed with? Which option to go with? What to expect as far as post processing? Accuracy? Something else?

If cost is your design constraint, and you want a CoreXY design, think about what drives the Voron BOM cost and optimize around that. Without thinking about it too much, the thing that jumps to mind are the 4x (2,4) or 3x (trident) z motors. Reducing beyond 3 will not allow you to get the gantry mechanically in plane with the bed, but that didn't stop Bambu labs from using a single motor on the z-axis for the x1 and p1. Ditching the cable chains for a CAN or USB toolhead would also probably save some cost out of the gate (fewer wires + you won't have to buy the cable chains).

Also consider what your design goals are. In the case of single vs 3/4 z motors, you're trading initial fiddling with cost. A single z motor is going to require more fiddling to get right, but it does save on BOM cost.

Why not just build a Voron? Other than your bed size, nothing else you listed wouldn't work on a Voron build. If you want to make it your own, the design is fully open source so you can modify to your heart's content. There are also a ton of "unofficial" and "official" mods.

It's worth saying that CoreXY != bed slinger, so...

at least for the tap carriage and mount.

I think Microcenter only carries the 'full' CNC kit, which was pre-tap when I bought mine

Layer lines are unavoidable imo, I’ve sorta just come to terms, I think I run a tad hot and haven’t fully tuned my profiles, but happy with it for my purposes

Layer lines are one thing, but them shifting around is very annoying. I don't know if it's completely a 'me' thing or if a large chunk of the people who posts things online only go for a beauty shot.

For example:

compared to:

(open the images in a new tab, Lemmy doesn't always let you view them full size...)

I tend to run fast, but I've found that Polymaker's ASA will print happily at 230-235 on my machine. Maybe slower + cooler would help my results. I should try a few sequential objects to find out.

Don't get me wrong, the 2.4 is a massive improvement in quality over what I was turning out on my i3 clone.

I do it right after plate prep/cleanup

What is this plate prep you speak of? I kid, but I'm also happy that I (very rarely) have to clean or do anything to my build plate.

LEDs I’m mixed on, I moved my gantry cam because they seemingly were aimed right at it and you couldn’t see anything. I keep thinking about a nozzle camera, but with my current setup I really don’t feel like running another umbilical and I’m not 100% sold that it’d survive or really be that handy.

No cameras here. The lighting at the top of the frame is great for letting me see the first layer, which is really all I need to see. Now that I got z-calibration up and running, I rarely have to fiddle here. The only spaghetti I've encountered has been due to ASA warping, but now that I know that was chamber temp related it should be easy to avoid.

How is the rapido? I’m using dragon HF/UHF for spares and using my existing v6 nozzles, have heard the rapido has some good results.

All in, I like it. It heats up amazingly quickly compared to the extruder on my i3 clone - literally 10s of seconds. Mine doesn't ooze or string at all and retraction tuning is a piece of cake (basically any value works fine). One tool nozzle changes are nice, but I honestly don't change my nozzle very often. I've run TPU, PETG, and ASA through it without issues. The HF Rapido, which is the one I would suggest going with on a stealthburner due to height, runs v6 nozzles which is also nice. Stealthburner installation isn't hard, but you do have to pull the bowden coupler off the top of the Rapido.

I've run a few ASA prints at 30-35 mm^{3 feed rates and was able to do so without needing to touch my extrusion temperature. I can't say the same for PETG - that topped out at around 20-25 mm}3 without increasing temperature. What kinds of things do you print? Are you OK with using thicker layers and bigger extrusion widths? You won't be able to easily crack 30 mm^3 feed rate if by moving your toolhead fast - you'll need thick(er) extrusion widths and layer heights. Play around in your slicer, all the slic3r derivatives will let you view volumetric flow on your sliced gcode. I'm not sure the extruder is worth it if you're not going to take advantage of its ability to flow filament quickly.

Fun fact: user names are instance specific, so someone could grab any of our user names on a different instance. Think of it as having sga@gmail.com and someone grabs sga@yahoo.com.

/random tidbit

I used my move to Lemmy to switch to a different one after having the same cross-platform alias for something like 20 years. It was time for a bit more anonymity. Winamp kids might suspect it's related to the music player and they wouldn't be wrong.

I do somewhat regret not ending it with AMA, but such is life.

USB > CAN IMO, but as I said in my post that's going to require some printed parts which means I need to fix my wire break, which means the printer will be working again, which means I can put off a decision for a while.

LDO's nighthawk looks very tempting though. I'll probably buy the parts, fix my printer, print what I need, and put it all aside for my next wire break.

Are those machined idler blocks‽

They are! If you live near a microcenter, they were selling chaotic lab's machined parts kit for significantly cheaper than you could buy it online. It was rebranded, but the inserts inside the box had chaotic labs written all over them.

If not you have some really solid prints!

If you dig through my post history you can find examples of prints off the Voron. X-Y is fairly solid, but I haven't spent the time to tune input shaping so it has some ringing. Z on the other hand... Shine a hard light at a steep angle and you'll see layer lines galore from the X-Y start point of each layer moving around slightly. I chased that for a bit, and made some improvement, but without input shaping and not wanting to slow down it's probably as good as it's going to get with ASA right now.

There's also the whole z-expansion thing. With 4x bed fans, the frame does grow enough in z to impact height over time. If printing sequential parts, first layer squish will get worse and worse for each part if I don't let the printer soak for a bit.

Impressed with how clean everything is.

As you said, vacuuming lol. It's amazing how much crud accumulates on the panel under the build plate. It does take a while for it to build up, but since it can't go anywhere it does catch the eye.

Instead of running LEDs to the toolhead. It's cheesy and heavy, but rule of cool right

That does look pretty cool. My tool head has zero lights in it, so I might be the antithesis of cool :( I do have 3x Daylight on a stick installed though. They provide a pretty solid light source for checking adhesion and what not.

If you don't feel like printing parts, could run the usb umbilical through the chains

I haven't found a USB cable rated for such a small bend radius with any kind of reasonable service life. I have considered a non-USB cable to run the USB signal over, like chainflex cf9. Not sure how well that would work.

Is your other printer still up? Having a backup has come in really handy

It is, but I'm probably going to be parting ways with it soon since it hasn't been used since I got the Voron up and running. The Voron has around 750 hours on it and the only issues have been a few wire breaks in the chains (not enough wire slack when I built it) and me botching a repair of my Rapido (if you overtighten those tiny screws you'll crimp the tiny heatbreak tube). Wire repair is easy enough to do and doesn't require printing anything.

Silicone "springs", plus printed thumbwheels without a ton of clearance for the leveling screws, really helped my i3 clone a lot. I could go multiple prints without having to relevel! It was like a dream.

The perimeter does seem a little squished, but the lines making up the fill look pretty good. It could just be the lighting.

Too much squish = ripples and I don't see any of those.

I'll happily comment! Hopefully that will spark some others. If/when I make something interesting or mess around with my printer I'll be sure to post it here. Meanwhile, !beebutts@lemmy.world and a few other gardening and photography related communities are right up my alley.

Welcome! I remember this design popping up on reddit. It's nice to hear that you were able to make some side money off it and pivot into other things to keep the income stream going.

TBH, I wouldn't hesitate to post. Lemmy in general is pretty quiet. I chalk that up to a combination of a fairly small user base and having a ton of communities out of the gate - probably too many for the size of the user base. As is usual, there are plenty of lurkers and if you post content they find interesting they'll come out of the woodwork to comment and upvote. I've managed to find a few communities that match some of my interests and do my best to contribute content, although 3D printing is a bit harder because it takes more effort for me to make what I consider meaningful content. I have considered lowering my standards to see if generates some activity though.

Overall, the vibe here feels a bit like the earlier days of reddit. Lots of techies with a handful of normies thrown in. Since Lemmy is FOSS, the user base does lean more toward the FOSS side of things than reddit, which is somewhat nice in that I'm thinking about FOSS a ton more than I was a year ago.

I'm going to second fusion 360 here. Yes, it is cloud based but if you really want to you can save the .f3d files locally as well, in addition to the step files. I've tried a few open source alternatives and none have really come close :(

Calipers and a radius gauge will take you far with modeling around every day objects. If the thing you're trying to model around happens to be flat, a flatbed scanner with a ruler on it (so you can scale the scan correctly in the CAD program of your choice) is also pretty powerful.

Rep Rap got started in 2005 and their 1.0 design was released in 2008. This (eventually) spawned the OG Prusa i3, which launched in 2016. I'm not sure that FDM has advanced at ton since then, and I say that as a recent Voron 2.4 builder. Quality of life, absolutely. Tech? It seems more incremental/evolutionary than revolutionary. I'm sure multi-extruder will become better implemented over the next few years, but I'm not sure how far it will wind up going. It doesn't seem like there's going to be an elegant solution, which largely just leaves complicated solutions.

I am not sure if this applies in Canada, but make sure that the program offered by the school is accredited. For example, I'm an engineer in the US and one of the bigger accreditation agencies is ABET. Some companies won't hire you unless the school you want to is accredited by ABET.

That's interesting, I haven't had that experience. I wonder what's creating the difference between the two of us :(

I'm currently leaning toward YouTube music.

I've subscribed on and off from Pandora for years (remember their founder sending you an email thanking you for participating in his experiment?). I find that my stations quickly start playing the same set of songs over and over.

I've also given Spotify a shot, but it seems like you either have to make your own playlist or listen to someone else's. I personally like the algorithm fuled rabbit hole.

YouTube music has a decent catalog and their suggestions have introduced me to a lot of good music. Their android auto experience kinda stinks, and most things are transitory (eg no stations you tweak to your preferences over time), but IMO the discovery it offers is worth it. I also like that it lets you actively manage your queue, add songs/albums to it, rearrange things, etc.

Same reason other groups have been blamed over the years. In Nazi Germany, the Jews were blamed for basically everything - the loss of the war, inequality, etc. MAGA is doing the same thing, but with immigrants.

Why? Blaming someone else for your problems is a lot easier than understanding what's actually going on and going after that. Amusingly, MAGA leaders are using it as a diversionary tactic as they put policies in place that benefit the wealthiest. Pitting the poor against one another prevents them from seeing what's actually happening.

Haha, the poop post! I remembered commenting in that thing, but it might have been from my kbin account before I hopped to .world