There's no easy one-stop solution since it can vary widely.
I would look at subreddits (yuck, reddit!), or dedicated forums for your model if they exist, you'd probably be surprised what's out there. (Example, there's Piloteers (Honda Pilot), Kia-Forums (Kia), 4Runners and Toyota-4Runner, etc. But information may be scattered.
First objective is figuring out if it's even on your vehicle or applicable. Older 3G radios are done since the networks that connected to them are gone now. My '16 Kia had no cellular radio. Maybe you have an SOS button or they advertise a phone app to control your vehicle remotely?
Edit: And if you can't find specific model/year information for your vehicle, you can look for information for related vehicles and see if it's relevant. Ex: Honda Passport, Pilot, Ridgeline sharing a lot of engineering.
in this case that's Toyota specific and it means likely loss of phone calls on the go (but nothing else) even though the data can't leave your vehicle anymore. It all depends on how they wire up the system. Maybe it's easier, maybe it's tied to something random.
The antennae only likely won’t reduce range enough. Check for an opt-out procedure prior to purchase since that’s easiest, then look for what fuse powers the connection (also easy), but worse case, lay eyes on the module itself and evaluate.
I’m sure it varies widely. In Toyota’s you can call in to disconnect (I did it while waiting for a tire pressure machine) but to do it physically you pull a single fuse and the trade off is losing the microphone.
Others have pulled the dash and disconnected antennae but it just reduces the range of the box since it’s a cellular radio like a phone.
In Toyota’s there’s a red sticker on the dash talking about it and how to opt-out. (or at least I’ve seen it in a rental and a new car - but it might also be yanked by dealer’s PDI)
Varies widely. In Toyota’s you call via the SOS button, have your VIN and they can do it. There are also other direct ways like pulling the Mayday fuse to disconnect the “Data Connection Module” (DCM) but that takes the microphone with it.
Some older vehicles that have 3G radios might not have been disconnected explicitly but are as good as dead because 3G as they knew it is gone.
It does not report via Android Auto since these vehicles have their own cellular radios, but not to say Google has its own metrics.
Your best bet is looking for a car/make-specific forum or subreddit and see if anyone’s asked the questions before while ignoring the “nothing to hide, you have a phone lol” clowns.
Honestly I'd disagree. Past the iPhone 4S, my iPhone 8 was fine through it's life before being replaced with a 13 mini a year or two ago when it suffered a naked gravitational incident at my hands. My parent's generally had hand-me-downs or used models and dad's 6s is still kicking and performing alright and even got a security patch a month ago.
They had that battery snafu which I will absolutely fault their lack of transparency for (good ol' hide-the-workings-from-customers Apple) but I did encounter the issue it sought to trade performance for preventing in the past. (a worn battery causing random reboots on my 6s)
Now my BlackBerry Priv? I miss that phone but I did not miss it's combination of slowing down with age plus updates running out at 6.0.1. Worst of both worlds but I miss sliders and Blackberry's additions. (not the size though)
Similar in age (2015 models) but I doubt dad would be as tolerant of how it performed even a few years ago.
Google removed “Ok Google with the screen off” (made the toggle disappear, replaced with the option to allow its use in apps) on my Moto Z Play via Play Services updates and later advertised it as a Pixel-exclusive feature. (this was when the Pixel 1 was new)
Their support threads were ended curtly with statements of the phone not supporting the feature which I guess was technically true now that they changed it. (but no, the hardware always supported hotwords)
Never got that feature back and I bailed. For the ups and downs, I’m glad Apple doesn’t do that, instead omitting or handicapping new features for older devices. Of course not the best but yeesh, at least I don’t have to worry about “Hey Siri” being pulled to promote the iPhone 20 yet…
if you have a vehicle with 3G like 2019 and earlier 4Runners, ya good already.
Call in via the car with your VIN to disconnect the radio. You'll have to navigate the phone menu but I did it while waiting for Costco's air pressure machine.
You can also pull the DCM fuse but that'll take the microphone with it.
thcdenton's just finding that comment from a mod amusing - or perhaps it's meant to be ironic since "ur mom gay" maybe isn't quite top "Sensible Chuckle" material
I'd skip the Santa Cruz largely since Hyundai/Kia are experts at cost-cutting that blows up big in customer faces down the line. (anti-theft, engines, warranty work, wiring, etc.) but your options are already limited so I wouldn't blame you for getting it. I'd get the base engine/transmission though if you anticipate stop/go traffic or off-road use since the dual-clutch in the upper engine option is better than dry clutch models but IMHO still suspect.
I would lean towards the Maverick but neither are really "small" since they're still pretty long.
There's the Transit Connect if you want a cargo van that's compact.
Oh yep, not the same person here but price varies widely.
In my apartment complex, we have Blink network EV chargers at $0.03/kWh which is a crazy price. The complex next door's Blink chargers charges $0.50ish/kWh (both of those are Level 2) and our apartment rates (for the hypothetical out-the-window Level 1 charging) is somewhere $0.14-0.18/kWh.
DC fast charging for trips will likely will charge closer to that $0.50/kWh mark depending on the location and will be a problem for those who don't have lower-cost charging at home.
That's a big range for "home" (but still commercial) charging and depending on the efficiency of the vehicle, the cost per mile will vary. The range will likely be around 2 mi/kWh to 4 mi/kWh.
🫡