Its best if you can get one for free. Integrated UPS is also nice :) even old is probably overkill, im running all services you mentioned +20 more and cpu is chilling most of the time. Good luck
Oh thx, thats usefull. Im gonna do more research, but do you know what can I expect from appartment in new building in eu? Im about to move place in a month and im intersted in smart lights. Hopefully i can use smart switch like shelly 1. Its kinda confusing how to use smart bulbs with normal switch. I see myself spamming wall switch in a dark hehe. or maybe I just dont understand how it works yet
Wireguard + duckdns is simple setup, but lot of people prefer tailscale cuz its even more simple to set up or they cant forward port or they might be behind cgnat. I just dont like additional company between me and my server, so im avoiding it as long as I can
Nothing will beat single board computer like rpi in power consuption, but PC can be efficient as well. For example in my country I pay around 1€ for each Watt a year (average 0.12€/kwh). So rpi is probably 5€ a year and my new server is like 20-30. There are some servers that run at 10W on idle.
Its 5x difference, but I got much better server and still acceptable cost. Having sata potrs will already save you a lot of $ and time since you need additional hardware to use ssd/hdd on rpi, especially if you need more than 1. And then rpi is not that small anymore. Rpi cant transcode at all, but its good enough for direct play. If you get intel cpu with quicksync you should be golden. I didnt test on 4k, but my g3930 can handle 4x 1080p easy.
I used rpi4 with 4gb ram as media/torrent server for few years and it was simple set and foeget setup untill SSD upgrade when it started started acting up. Figured the rpi cant provide enough juice on USB ports and then I got external power HDD case and got more into self hosting. 4GB soon became a bottleneck so I ended up with new PC and I love it. Still using rpi for 2nd pihole and few more services.
This is half solution, but still might be useful if there is nothing better available.
There are wifi SD cards like toshiba flashair that can connect to your wifi and provide samba share folder (with some easy moding). Then you can save gcode directly from slicer and start the print from printer screen. Far from octoprint features, but still beter than moving sd card every time
I agree with you mate, but how do you deal with long prints like 12 - 24h? Im printing at home for many years and since day 1 I plan to get some fire protection like ampoule.
There are no signs of fire hazard in OPs failure, but your comment made me think again and maybe Ill stop being lazy and cheap. Gonna do some research right away
Yeah mate thats super usefull 1st print for every new filament. Temp tower, flow tower, retraction tower and you are set.
Btw calibrating retraction is not just changing speed, you need to find speed and distance. But yeah like others said, your petg probably needs to be dried first
Mate I dont own any of them, but open source is easy life. Prusa uses marlin afaik which is awesome and you can always change to klipper which is even better imo. Im in this hoby for 10+ years and prusa was always recommended by users. Bamboo looks amazing, but I wouldnt go for baby company with properary crap over big and famous prusa, the inventor of this kind of printers.
Also dont wait, just buy one. They didnt change that much hardware wise after adding heated bed. In my opinnion 3D printers are much better now compared to 10y ago, but 90% because of the community. Hardware is better, software is much much better, but community is what makes it rly good for new people. It means you can buy any popular device and you will get better support than any company can even imagine. Even better if you go open source route.
Whatever you chosey there are plenty of resources online including Lemmy, arm yourself with patience and enjoy the ride
I dont know, but also I think it woudnt be strong bond. Wood glue is shit for anything other than wood. I believe you need the same glue you would use for the same plastic with no wood.
Also some parts are harder to print, like 200 mm cube. Use all helpers whenever you can, brim is easy to remove and I use it 95% of time. Mouse ears are overkill sometimes, but I sleep better while printing big parts with sharp corners. Also waking up better when I know it didnt fail
As others said clean the surface, but also consider bit more squish on the first layer.
Changing bed surface is a big change and requires calibration. First PID tune your bed heater if you havent already. Then find new good temp for your setup (assuming everything else is fine). To be fair, pla and pei are both quite forgiving, but having printer dialed in is almost mandatory for large prints.
I dont use pei, but printing on clean glass. 60 C with fans off is perfect for 1st layer, but then I have to change it to 56 C to avoid corner lifting on large prints.
Also good practice is to leave printer heated for like 20 min before you start printing
You can do some math to identify resolution. Check your FW, quick search got me:
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (linear=steps/mm, rotational=steps/°)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z [, I [, J [, K...]]], E0 [, E1[, E2...]]
*/
#if NEPTUNE_3_PRO
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.00, 80.00, 400.00, 380.00}
#elif NEPTUNE_3_PLUS
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.00, 80.00, 400.00, 390.00}
#elif NEPTUNE_3_MAX
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.20, 80.20, 400.00, 390.00}
#endif
I guess its 380 steps/mm, but I should go deeper in that and do some math (gear teeth numbers, grub screw diameter) to confirm what resolution is original. Shouldnt be hard if you get all information needed, but still easier to ask them what stepper is that. Since its kinda standard 200 steps/rev would be my bet
Ye I couldn't find any datasheet of that one. Maybe e-mail them and ask?
Well, I'd say any Nema17 bipolar (4 wires) 25 mm in length (similar current) and probably 1.8°/step or 200 steps/revolution (like most of them) should work. If you get wrong resolution (steps/revolution) your extruder will move wrong distance (like double), but you can change that in FW. And you should fine tune Vref (small screw on your stepper driver or in FW) to find sweet spot between heating and torque
rambos @ rambos @lemmy.world Posts 8Comments 223Joined 2 yr. ago
Its best if you can get one for free. Integrated UPS is also nice :) even old is probably overkill, im running all services you mentioned +20 more and cpu is chilling most of the time. Good luck