morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

Posts

9

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607

Joined

2 yr. ago

Did not know about the Mac version, my partner is using Strongbox on her mac, I don't personally use Mac os. I've been using keepass2android for a long time, I like that there's so many different clients for keepass

Is keepass really a lot of work though? If you use xc you have a client that works in windows or Linux, the file itself can be hosted anywhere, I ran for years with it on a USB key. There's no accounts to create, you just download and go.

I'll give you some thoughts for question 2 based on my experience with it.

Klippering your mk3s is an option. I dropped a skr mini in mine after the Einsy board (temporarily, somehow resurrected it with the Arduino IDE and reflashing it) died, it's substantially quieter with the drivers on the mini and it's been able to print faster than I comfortably would have before. It opens up a lot of options, have pins on the board to do things with. You could put together a lack enclosure for it as well. I'm personally thinking about maybe bear modding it next, but one thing at a time.

You could also use the mk3s as a base for a switchwire

All in, the mk3s is a really solid base printer, restoring it to stock would definitely be worth it, I put thousands of hours on mine in the last year with at most a bit of 3-in-1 on the rods as maintenance. The only real failure I had that wasn't self inflicted was the original petg parts failing after printing most of the parts for my v2.4 in the summer heat with an enclosure, which was totally expected and I had already printed abs/ASA parts to use. Even heavily modded it's super simple to tear down and rebuild when compared to my voron.

Edit for question 1, why not look at a prusa xl? Prusa support is top notch, it's core xy and supports multiple print heads and had a large print area. It comes with a premium price though, think it's over $2k. The mk4 is an option, but you're getting the same print area as the mk3s, but its cheaper, pre assembled with an enclosure bundled is like 1.4k, less if you go for the kit.

All good, totally appreciate sticking with that promise as well!

For sure, I couldn't do 45 degree when I was printing a nevermore max, for the life of me I couldn't get it to print nicely in abs. I'm planning to do some upgrades soon so I'm also going to up my bedfans to 4.

Do you have a toolhead PCB? A lot of them have a temp sensor on them, using that to monitor chamber temps.

Yeah but all it takes is for people to stay home on election day, look at Ontario's "majority" government where the Tories only got 40.8% of the record low 43.5% turnout and somehow got 83 of the 124 seats. The tactics aren't limited to getting people to vote conservative, making the left less likely to vote works just as well, if not better.

Like I get it, I prefer the NDP platform but I will always abc so long as we have to live with fptp.

Out of pure interest, do y'all have plans to release a de-identififed version of the cleansed (or even the raw but that's even more effort) dataset? I'm not sure how much (if any) pii or potentially identifying information was collected, but there are tools that can help with anonymizing beyond just removing columns. I'm sure there are some data nerds who wouldn't mind taking a stab at an analysis/data vis themselves.

I totally understand the effort of doing that so no worries if not!

I swear by Buildtak surface for abs and also really like their nylon surface. Its enabled me to do brimless prints on both of them with no issue. The downside is it's a consumable and runs about 50 cad for the 350 mm^2 v2, I can get multiple for my mk3s for the same price, have also swapped from the satin plate to buildtak for abs on that.

I also totally recommend Ellis' superslicer profiles for the v2, there's profiles all they way up to uhf+cht flow rates and there's 45deg versions of all of them which as was pointed out does often make the edges look a bit nicer

With all that though, abs can be tough for larger objects and you really should have a heated chamber in that case, I tend to go petg for those parts where I don't need high temp

Oh yeah solidworks connected is a right pain, I use it purely because of my experience with solidworks itself, familiarity goes a long way especially when it's been a while. Ondsel is what I've been using, grabbed it on a whim after it was recommended a few weeks ago. The fact it's done by a bunch of freecad contributors is interesting to me, and not that I need then but the collab tools look interesting.

Wrt to the workflow it's funny because it's the way I wanted to use it, it totally behaves like other cad packages. I'm definitely sketch first for everything, I just was using the part workbench instead of the PartDesign workbench. I actually really like how freecad handles variables through the spreadsheet, put together the start of some parametric gears for a project idea I have.

I swear ive got a phone book worth if fliers in the past month. Many trees died to bring me news of deals at Canadian Tire and Food Basics

It's honestly probably in the good enough territory at this point for makers. I think I finally realised how freecad wants me to use it and found it much nicer to work with after that, and I think I found a camera control I can live with coming from primarily solidworks.

Definitely using more and more, for 70 cad/year I'll keep my solidworks maker sub for anything I find I can't do in freecad but I'm really going to try committing to using it this year as my primary cad package. There's still some quirks but I'm also way more willing to live with that with foss

I have no problems with discord as chat/supplement (and I remember setting up irc-discord bots in the past so you could totally have both) it's when discord is the only way to interact that it's annoying IMO. Part of the benefit of forums and git issues is searchability imo, can't really search discord externally for content and I definitely have found the search function annoying at best.

That said, video guides instead of manuals also annoys me, but that's a different issue.

What type of probe and what's the config on it?

    
[probe]
pin: PC14
x_offset: 23
y_offset: 5
#z_offset: 0.10
speed: 20.0
samples: 5 
samples_result: average
sample_retract_dist: 1.0
#samples_tolerance: 0.010
#samples_tolerance_retries: 10

  

Is what I've got my pinda probe configured with, was playing around with sample tolerances like I have on my printer with a tap probe but I just found the inductive probe has a lot of variation, I added more samples to hopefully average out that error.

    
[Bed_mesh]
algorithm: bicubic
fade_start: 0.6
fade_end: 10.0
bicubic_tension: 0.2
faulty_region_1_max: 120.0, 74.0 
faulty_region_1_min: 85.0, 45.0 # 103,69
faulty_region_2_max: 125.0, 165
faulty_region_2_min: 70, 110 # 103, 137
horizontal_move_z: 2
mesh_max: 228,210
mesh_min: 24, 6
mesh_pps: 2, 2
probe_count: 5,5
speed: 200 
    
  

Is my mesh setup, based on a mk3s klipper config. Meshes look a little odd but I ran some bed level prints fine and just ran a full plate of abs with pretty consistent 1st layer.

It's still a fantastic material in my view. I find it handles overhangs nicely and handles higher printing speeds. It does give off some nasty fumes though, my printers live in my garage and I have carbon filters on both of them, still don't like being out there while printing it unless I can open the doors to the outside.

Large, thinner objects in ABS are a huge challenge, even with an enclosure. I pretty much gaveup trying to print A Nevermore Max in abs for the frame, walls aren't super thick so it's super warp prone. I tend to use petg for prints like that.

That's a really low hotend temp unless you meant 250 and 240. You could try dropping cooling to try getting layers to adhere better but I'd really consider a different material.

That's the boat I'm in, I swapped my laptop from kubuntu to Debian which is solid for me. Server has a lot setup on it that I could move but for now Ubuntu server works, not really feeling the push to change.

Big thing for me to do a prusa-sized trident would be the ability to share surfaces between it and my mk3s. 350^2 is nice, I don't fill it all that often but it's nice to have the ability to print larger objects.

Both are solid choices, you won't be upset either way, I was 50/50 on both but decided to do the v2 for 350x350 print area. I have an enclosed mk3s that I use as well,

All that said, it is markedly faster than the mk3s and I'm definitely no where near pushing it to its limits. There's a lot to build but I would call it difficult, racking the gantry and belt tensioning being the parts I spent the longest time on. I limit to 24 mm^3/s even though I could go faster, it still just absolutely flies with something like a 0.8mm nozzle. My only other headsup is that modding it is addicting, I've thrown on titanium backers and a kinematic mount for the bed, have a whole bunch of other ones in the pipe as well.

For sure, I selfhost obico to monitor as well. It's not perfect but usually alerts me if things are going off the rails.

Moving the bed through its full RoM by hand slowly, do you feel constant resistance? Is your motor even slightly loose? That can definitely amplify any motor noise. It's probably worth lubricating your rails, I'm assuming you have something like a creality cr10? Here's creality's wiki for maintenance. White lithium grease in a syringe is my general use for printers, I do like 3-in-1 or another light oil for my Mk3s though, really easy to apply a light coat to the guide rods

I've suspected resonance in my z axis on my bed slinger, only shows up with large moves and higher ambient temps, and the sound is best described as a way louder stepper noise.