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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)MO
Posts
9
Comments
605
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • Oh yeah the HF has a bit of heat creep, just swapped my franken-prusa to a noctua 24v hotend fan and it seems better, I've also found it super filament specific. I also dropped the plate temps as PLA was unhappy in the enclosure with the summer heat, had to do a rebuild and found the tube going into the extruder wasn't flush up and some PLA had blobbed into the void.

    I like the dragon specifically because it's fixed in places, I've totally had self induced issues with a v6 hotend which prompted me to look into it in the first place, also was component compatible. I like the uhf a lot on my v2.4, I don't push my printers to their limits but I'm pretty happy with what it can put out with a 24mm3/s profile with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, it's really nice with a 0.6 mm as well.

    Yeah that was my experience with the v2, I tinker with it because I can't help myself, but it's been a rock solid experience once I got it dialed in (which I would expect to do with any printer). They're also popular and well documented so there's a lot of information out there. Klipper is also amazing, my experience with it and the v2 was what prompted me to klipperise my prusa in the first place.

  • What volume of print area do you need? Any specific filament types you want to use? What sort of budget? Do you want something that just works or are you fine with tinkering?

    Hardware

    I mentioned in another topic that prusas solid machines, yeah they're pricey, kits are cheaper than assembled and because they're easy to service, I wouldn't even hesitate at grabbing a second hand one.

    A lot of really good responses, there's a ton you can choose from there, however I'm going to suggest looking into a voron v0.2 kit as an option, it's totally open source and you own your hardware, I self sourced my v2.4 but I've seen decent reviews of the formbot kits, they're up to date with the voron project and look to include some mods in the kit as well, the v0.2 with everything you need to put together and a dragon HF hotend is just under $500 USD, the v0.2 is a 120x120x120 printer and is totally capable of printing abs (in fact all of the voron printers can have their parts printed on it afaik) they also have trident and v2 kits but they're twice the price for the larger kits. Another option would be to source a kit from a local supplier, will be a bit more expensive generally though.

    I've done both, my first printer was a Mendelmax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately when I moved cross country, learned a lot building it so I bought a preassembled prusa as my next one. If diy and modding is your thing I 100% recommend building a kit, and even if tinkering isn't your thing you'll learn a lot about how they work by building one, but also totally get the need for something that's capable out of the box.

    Software

    I use SuperSlicer heavily, Ellis provides a great tuning guide and superslicer profiles for vorons, but overall I like it, it's a fork of PrusaSlicer which is itself based on Slic3r which has been around forever. I think SuperSlicer and PrusaSlicer are on flathub, but they also provide appimages. SuperSlicer has a ton of settings, PrusaSlicer has some really nice features and out of the box printer and filament profiles, also a measuring tool which is nice. I like the interface better on SuperSlicer and it has some tuning tools built in.

  • I'd still totally recommend a used mk3s, they're solid and simple to service, absolutely the way I went when I was in a place to start 3d printing again, their support is amazing and their knowledge base is a great reference. Stock they're a proven machine, but they're also a great platform for modding and there are so many mods out there.

    I used mine to do all my voron parts last spring, still gets heavy usage, ended up bear modding, swapping the Rambo for a skr mini and using klipper earlier this year instead of going the 4 or 3.5 route.

  • I was originally going to to go the docker route but honestly just ended up going the binary route and leaving it using sqlite as it's good enough for now. It's pretty well documented and a chunk of the prereqs I already had, like the git user creation.

    Did have SSH auth issues though, probably becauae I didn't fully cleanup after uninstalling gitlab (oops), had them in parallel for a bit to migrate the repos, gitlab had it trying to use gitlab-shell which didn't exist anymore. Probably a better/proper solution but what worked was changing the git user's home directory back to /home/git as gitlab had it using a gitlab config directory. I welcome anyone giving me a better/cleaner solution for this, on my to do list to do some more cleanup.

  • I just flipped my home git to forgejo from gitlab, gitlab just had a bunch of features I wasn't using, forgejo was easy to setup and it has a nice interface. I'm just using it for source control right now, still probably huge overkill but eh

  • I have an Asus ROG laptop I bought in 2013 with a 3rd gen i7, whatever the gtx 660 mobile chip was and 16gb of ram, it's definitely old by any definition, but swapping for an ssd makes it super useable, it's the machine that lives in my garage as a shop/lab computer. To be fair, its job is web browsing, CAD touchups, slicing and PDF viewing most of the time, but I bet I could be more demanding on it.

    I had been running mint w/ cinnamon on it before as I was concerned about resource usage, was a klipper and octoprint host to printer for a year and a bit. Wiped it and went for Debian with xfce becauae again, was originally concerned about resource usage but ended up swapping to KDE and I don't notice any difference so it's staying that way.

    I really hate waste so I appreciate just how useable older hardware can be, Yeah there's probably an era that's less true but I'll go out on a limb (based on feeling only) and suggest that anything in the last 15 years this'll be true for, but that's going to depend on what you're trying to do with it, you won't have all the capability of more modern hardware but frankly a lot of use cases probably don't need that anyhow (web browsing, word processing, programming, music playback for sure, probably some video playback, pretty much haven't hit a wall yet with my laptop)

  • I've had tailouts catch in the reverse Bowden tube a few times, I'll run as far as I can and then scrap the remainder, can cause issues even with one of those encoder filament sensors. I do try to collect it, want to start recycling material myself at some point.

  • I had one complain that I was being unreasonable with the salary I wanted for frelanance/contract positions, this was just before I got a job at a consulting firm, I checked my charge out rate and it's twice what I asked for, probably more now.

    I ghost them now if they're overly pushy or give off vibes. I avoid the feed as well, just absolutely unhinged.

  • Permanently Deleted

    Jump
  • Doesn't onshape originate from a bunch of SW engineers so that'd make sense!

    Personally, I was paying for SW with a maker license but this year I've committed to Freecad, use realthunder's fork that has the topo naming fix + modern ui workbench for a more familiar layout.

    I would call it totally useable, workflow for me ends up the same or similar to solidworks, I tried fusion because that's really popular but it didn't click with me while freecad did. I won't pretend it's flawless and doesn't have quirks but I'm willing to accept that for foss, need to spend a bit of time with it to get used to what it expects you to do but it's really powerful once you do.

  • Pretty much do the same thing, I leave the pull tabs visible to make it easier to pull down later but it's definitely the best option IMO, the block option is a good one too if you really care about hiding those. Found this one https://www.printables.com/model/330707-simple-dry-erase-board-mount on printables that's more of a hook type mount, but yeah, something in that could work too.

  • That "at least 4%" bit makes that even worse. Just look at the List of miscarriage of justice cases on Wikipedia, it's not not exhaustive and it's huge, I cannot morally or ethically justify capital punishment on that alone, the whole state-sanctioned murder bit just makes it even more horrific.

  • That's me as well, I've used vim for simple edits over the years but more and more just used nano for most of my terminal based edits. Finally ran vimtutor (mainly because I wasn't aware of it) and wow, I should have done that years ago.

  • Seriously though, it's been some time be afaik any microsoft product file that ends in x, .docx, .xlsx, .pbix are all just archives and you can totally interact with them programmatically if you want. Really easy to corrupt them but hey, found it interesting years ago.

  • I gave it a fair shake after my team members were raving about it saving time last year, I tried a SFTP function and some Terraform modules and man both of them just didn't work. it did however do a really solid job of explaining some data operation functions I wrote, which I was really happy to see. I do try to add a detail block to my functions and be explicit with typing where appropriate so that probably helped some but yeah, was actually impressed by that. For generation though, maybe it's better now, but I still prefer to pull up the documentation as I spent more time debugging the crap it gave me than piecing together myself.

    I'd use a llm tool for interactive documentation and reverse engineering aids though, I personally think that's where it shines, otherwise I'm not sold on the "gen ai will somehow fix all your problems" hype train.

  • Totally fair, had thought maybe keeping a thin amount on the edges would enable it to cure correctly.

    Definitely agree wrt to CA, you could use epoxy and other adhesives but CA is surprisingly strong, I have some cassette towers that are glued together with it and they're not going anywhere.

    Not super relevant to this but for anyone using CA glue, don't use it on fibrous material and please wear nitrile gloves, it reacts exothermically with some fibres and produces acrid vapours, it's really unpleasant, it should be called out on the SDS (which you should always check, there's enough stuff in most home shops that I'd wager has special precautions for handling and use that people aren't aware of)

  • The Tories have been attacking Trudeau from the outset though, I know people from when I lived in Calgary that still blame Trudeau Sr. for a lot of their problems so Trudeau got that from the outset.

    Historically we have red Tories but imo the "big tent" of the CPC is just reform 2.0 and while they're still there (I recall Michael Chong for example being one of the few people who acknowledged climate change and had a plan in his platform when he ran for leadership) it's still definitely reform party at its core. I had hoped the PPC would peel off the more hard-line side of the party and they could stop courting them but yeah, that didn't happen.

    We're an exporter though of the hardliners, I brought up Harper and the IDC a while ago but I kinda forgot about the og Preston Manning who Farage in the uk modeled his recent campaign after and is an admirer of. We like to point at the states for the shift in our Tories but we're absolutely more than capable of trailblazing ourselves...

  • I understand that, acetone attacks a lot of plastics, I've seen mixed comments about it with resin prints for smoothing, I don't see the harm with trying it on scrap material, at worst it doesn't work.

    CA glue though should work, heat won't so that's my bad. Op's original idea of brushing on resin and curing it sounded possible to me.

    There's also mechanical solutions, if possible op could change their parts to accept a screw, into plastic is plenty strong. or they could build in some sort of snap fit solution but both of those would require design changes and I assume op already has their parts printed.

  • I usually use ca glue or a soldering iron to fuse or repair parts. That said, if you have good ventilation and ppe I know acetone welding is not uncommon for abs and I've come across an older post where that works with PLA. Not sure if it'll work with your resin, could always try with a test piece.