morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

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9

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603

Joined

2 yr. ago

Honestly $80 sounds like an absolute bargain, you straight up can't build one yourself for that price, a mainboard and like 2-3 steppers would go over that and everything I've seen about that printer says it's a very capable, budget friendly option. It looks like that's using a btt mainboard which I totally swear by, straight up shorted a fan header on an octopus pro and it's still chugging along just fine, anecdotally they're pretty hard to kill.

I'd totally check your wiring before replacing a board, a break or bad crimp could totally be your culprit here, and those are a heck of a lot less work to remedy, thermal protection does totally get tripped if there's an intermittent fault with the thermistor (including cabling), I had it happen on a prusa where it'd kick out but not have anything obvious temp wise on the display, only noticeable in a temp plot.

They do like towels, specifically damp ones after showering, but the other thing they love is olives, same vocal reaction as catnip.

That's a really cool idea with the dehydrated carrots!

We have brothers, the big one is a popcorn fiend and the other will eat bread if you leave it in his reach, through the bag even. Carrots too, acts like they're catnip.

Last time I used can was for battery controllers on one tool family back in pipelining, people kept losing or forgetting the terminators.

There's the nighthawk toolhead for Stealthburners that's one of those usb umbilical boards, and did look at this printable tophat in the past.

I definitely ran spares in my cable chain as the less I need to open them the better, if I did discreet wiring on a new build though I very much might consider running something like a multi conductor cable through the cable chains with a smaller one for power+ground, build in some allowances for spares just to be safe.

This is subtractive rather than additive but I ended up following this video vaguely as a start when I was doing keychains. Cad packages weren't enjoying the vector image. I ended up creating an stl for the components (text, image and body) and merging them with a boolean operation, think this might help you get started as I had no idea where to even look.

I recall NKRO was the selling point on some of those keyboards, my old steel series mechanical will absolutely let you mash all the keys with a ps2 adapter.

I left probably too large loops in those places, but I've seen some nasty cable breaks when I worked with pipeline inspection tools so I'm kinda paranoid about having enough slack.

Umbilical folds on itself pretty well, I probably have mine too high tbh, but I could see a tophat mod being a thing. What you gain in less wires with can, you do add complexity to your overall setup, ran into some timeout issues after upgrading my SBC which seems to be related to this crowsnest issue thread that I've got sorted. Usb toolheads are a good idea, I went can because I'm using that for an ercf anyhow and already had bunch of usb devices.

Too familiar with that plot, at least you diagnosed it quick and it was apparent, sometimes they show up super intermittent and are a pain to chase.

I think I recall you having a break a while back ago on !vorondesign@lemmy.world, same spot?

There's a side quest chain in Starfield that has a generation ship arriving at a planet they claimed centuries ago only to find it's a corporate owned resort planet.

I'm probably over remembering, but even 5 km/hour would do for a lot of commutes if you could slow charge at home and work, just at home would go a long way to push needing to go to a charging station.

I'm totally in favour of higher amp circuits being available, just thinking that there's not as big of a barrier as some people suggest there is.

Seriously, the 120v everywhere is a big step, afaik you'll get 8-10 km per hour on a standard wall plug (depends on model obviously) just plugging in wall at work for the day would more than recoup the charge needed to get to work for most people. We still need some fast chargers but slow charging is totally practical for how most people use their vehicles every day, need to change your mindset to keep it topped up instead of refill when empty like ICE, but it's totally doable.

Yeah the acm insulated better than I expected, probably the pu layer? As for the tape It just kinda fell off the wall, it's not the best surface, old concrete board I think, has a rough surface, was for powerbar cables and the power bar itself, was super secure when I put them up but they came down about 6 months later, they're all up with wall anchors now. The foam on the panels hasn't failed yet, used different stuff on the doors and its adhesive kinda seeped out, not happy about it though, been meaning to do something about the doorgap too so figure I'll do all at once. I need to do some panel mounts changes too,

I have a bunch of spare hotend thermistors, used one of them, this printer's using a pt1000 anyhow so was fine using the one I swapped out.

I've gone through a bunch of polylite abs, which prints pretty well, but it stinks, may actually be one of the stronger smelling abs I've printed with. That's the immediate difference, the Matter3D stuff has way less smell, almost none actually, need to practically stick your face right up against the door for a bit. Print wise, I've just used the extrusion multiplier I use for all abs so not tuned a profile yet, kept up with a decent print speed and it can go hotter (if I recall wants 235-270), quality is solid, very dry out of the bag, does come on plastic spools though.

Oh yeah same volume, my garage isn't climate controlled and I live in southern Ontario so it's not exactly cold in the summer, it contributes to the chamber temps for sure. That said, on a day in the high 20s I've seen 65 ish chamber temps, have a long running print going right now and it did cool off some last night to 58.5 with a 100c bed temp, doing some large abs prints that to be fair are designed to minimise warp but I find north of 50 pretty much solid for a lot of my prints, lots of variation between filament manufacturers as well from what I've found, if one works well I tend to stick with them for the bulk of my material. Also considering the bubble insulation, specifically for the winter, I actually kinda sorta want to do a nomex or other fr material sleeve though, was half joking about the cozy idea but it'd do the trick and be easily removable.

Frame gets very warm, I'm actually mildly concerned about the adhesive on the foam tape as well, had an issue last summer with 3m adhesive tape failing in the heat of just the garage. I bought some nomex gasket material meant for smokers and the like that I'm adding to the list of things to try, chamber temps already cause the cheap interior humidity/thermometer LCD to error, seems to only be good into the 50s, but it's just there for quick reference and I have a chamber thermistor on the gantry now anyhow.

Edit: current temps and fan settings if curious, I've for a spool of polymaker polylite abs I'm using up in there, have had really good results with Matter3D Performance ABS which is a manufacturer out in BC, had next to no odour and prints really nicely. Have had good results with all of their material.

Yeah, even the ACM panels with bedfans are enough for it to get toasty, I've seen mid 60s during the day, I'll probably put insulation on it at some point as well for the winter.

Someone needs to make a nomex cozy for them.

That's almost enough time to get through a full Gregtech:New Horizons run!

So my first thought is:

1. Minecraft, even a handful of modpacks would set you up for a long time
2. Morrowind, pretty much any tes game is going to give you lots of replay
3. Rimworld, same as Minecraft in that I've already had for years and it's on the top of my played hours on steam.

I may swap one with Satisfactory if this question was asked after 1.0. Elden Ring would be up there too, and maybe Stellaris, actually really difficult to limit to a small handful, there's a few I have as semi regular replays (ME trilogy, DA:O) that don't have the same time investment.

Edit: after reading some comments,

1. Minecraft, modded Minecraft gives you massive amounts of replayability
2. Mass Effect Collection, this is a bit cheaty as it's bundling the trilogy in one group, but the ME series is still one of the more memorable game series to me, between that and DA:O I'd have a hard choice but think the trilogy would win out.
3. Elden Ring, only picked up before the DLC dropped and it's already in my top 5, world is amazing, I do loosely themed runs when I play so I've not even scratched the surface in terms of build possibilities and it's great for someone who likes to theorycraft

All filaments are sensitive to surface oil, but PETG in particular super sensitive to any oil on a build plate, just fingerprints are enough, plain pei sheets you can totally clean with plain dish soap and water, makes a huge difference.

Yeah LibreComputer boards have become my go to SBC now, if you're fine headless the debian minimal image they offer is solid base image. I use Kiauh to handle my klipper setups, makes setting up klipper and related super simple, I think I recall an option to install octoprint with it as well.

Mm yeah the v0.2 is just a bit too small then, only 12cm in each direction. You can check out their other kits, I have a v2, have heard great things about the trident, I'm currently thinking about building a 250x250 one or smaller, but they (the supplier I linked) don't include printed parts for those kits, the guts are still there though if you go for one check out the voron print it forward program, they're strict on who's able to fulfill requests.

Oh yeah the HF has a bit of heat creep, just swapped my franken-prusa to a noctua 24v hotend fan and it seems better, I've also found it super filament specific. I also dropped the plate temps as PLA was unhappy in the enclosure with the summer heat, had to do a rebuild and found the tube going into the extruder wasn't flush up and some PLA had blobbed into the void.

I like the dragon specifically because it's fixed in places, I've totally had self induced issues with a v6 hotend which prompted me to look into it in the first place, also was component compatible. I like the uhf a lot on my v2.4, I don't push my printers to their limits but I'm pretty happy with what it can put out with a 24mm³/s profile with a standard 0.4 mm nozzle, it's really nice with a 0.6 mm as well.

Yeah that was my experience with the v2, I tinker with it because I can't help myself, but it's been a rock solid experience once I got it dialed in (which I would expect to do with any printer). They're also popular and well documented so there's a lot of information out there. Klipper is also amazing, my experience with it and the v2 was what prompted me to klipperise my prusa in the first place.

What volume of print area do you need? Any specific filament types you want to use? What sort of budget? Do you want something that just works or are you fine with tinkering?

Hardware

I mentioned in another topic that prusas solid machines, yeah they're pricey, kits are cheaper than assembled and because they're easy to service, I wouldn't even hesitate at grabbing a second hand one.

A lot of really good responses, there's a ton you can choose from there, however I'm going to suggest looking into a voron v0.2 kit as an option, it's totally open source and you own your hardware, I self sourced my v2.4 but I've seen decent reviews of the formbot kits, they're up to date with the voron project and look to include some mods in the kit as well, the v0.2 with everything you need to put together and a dragon HF hotend is just under $500 USD, the v0.2 is a 120x120x120 printer and is totally capable of printing abs (in fact all of the voron printers can have their parts printed on it afaik) they also have trident and v2 kits but they're twice the price for the larger kits. Another option would be to source a kit from a local supplier, will be a bit more expensive generally though.

I've done both, my first printer was a Mendelmax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately when I moved cross country, learned a lot building it so I bought a preassembled prusa as my next one. If diy and modding is your thing I 100% recommend building a kit, and even if tinkering isn't your thing you'll learn a lot about how they work by building one, but also totally get the need for something that's capable out of the box.

Software

I use SuperSlicer heavily, Ellis provides a great tuning guide and superslicer profiles for vorons, but overall I like it, it's a fork of PrusaSlicer which is itself based on Slic3r which has been around forever. I think SuperSlicer and PrusaSlicer are on flathub, but they also provide appimages. SuperSlicer has a ton of settings, PrusaSlicer has some really nice features and out of the box printer and filament profiles, also a measuring tool which is nice. I like the interface better on SuperSlicer and it has some tuning tools built in.