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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)DR
Posts
2
Comments
85
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • Good luck getting visas and residence permits.

    I (Danish) am married to an American and it was easier for me to get a US green card, than for her to get a residence permit in Denmark. After living some time in the US we decided to move to Denmark and while it’s great to live here, it was a freaking painstaking process to get her a permit.

  • Was in Kissimmee. We were forced into the apartment complex internet plan and it only included WiFi. No Ethernet ports in the apartment just a WiFi unit where you had to approve MAC addresses for access.

    Super frustrating. Ended up buying a router, that would bridge the WiFi and offer Ethernet to my Pi and desktop.

  • Denmark: 1gbps up/down with static IPv4 and IPv6 address for 105dkk ($15).

    I can reliably get the offered speeds and the connection is unlimited. Pretty happy with that.

    Where we lived in Florida we has Spectrum and they didn’t even offer Ethernet. Apartment only had WiFi with router access…

  • Some routers can act as a VPN, but I don’t think an ISP provided one can.

    I would suggest you get a raspberry pi zero W or equivalent(like orange pi zero) and setup a WireGuard server on that. It’s only like $15.

    That way you can vpn to your network and access devices / services without opening any additional ports.

  • What I do is using OliveTin behind a reverse proxy (traefik with auth) on a Pi. I then have a button in olivetin that sends WoL commands through local network to turn in my ‘big’ server. You can probably run it without issues on a Pi0.

    Alternatively, if you have a VPN to your home network, is using an app on your phone to send WoL commands when connected to the VPN. I have tested with both ‘Magic Packet’ and ‘Net Status’ on iOS through WireGuard.

  • Been doing a couple of test prints with 30-80% variable fan speed and it’s actually pretty good looking with almost no stringing.

    I unfortunately don’t have an enclosure, else I would for sure try and higher fan speed. Ad a slight draft this morning and my calibration cube print popped off half way through.

  • Update: replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Did two new temp towers:

    Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

    https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

    I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

    In regards to the fan, I actually read a post saying PETG wants almost no fan, so I just left it on default but maybe I should try a fixed fan speed.

    I’m pretty sure the popping noise was clogged PLA burning like crazy at 260c…

  • Update: replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Did two new temp towers:

    Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

    https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

    I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

    I’ll try the bunny again, the model is designed for vase mode, so it should work!

  • You were right! All clogged up.

    Replaced the nozzle, heat block (heating element, sensor, PTFE) and fan duct. Wasn’t able to unscrew the nozzle (got stuck 80% out) so I replaced the whole thing.

    Did two new temp towers:

    Left tower is 235 (top) to 260 (layers labeled 280-260 are all 260). Right is 220-240.

    https://i.imgur.com/1MQkStE.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/HDWq19A.jpg

    I definitely feel like 220 is the right temp for this.

  • How would an i5 6500T compare to a mini pc with an N100 or N305 like the beelink?

    I’m serious debating if I should get a beelink (or equivalent) with an N100 and 16GB ram or go for an Optiplex with an i5 6500T and 8GB ram. Both are about the same price where I am located.

    Im mainly interested in power usage and performance and not so much in upgradability.

  • I selected PETG filament profile in prusaslicer.

    I wrote the custom layer change temp code to switch temps and checked in prusaslicer that temp changes occur the right places. (Using the color preview thing)

    While printing I also saw that the temp did change where it should.

    I think I’ll do a calibration of the feeding, or whatever you call it, where you measure how much filament is extruded. During some of the bridging, it looked like nothing got extruded.

    It almost looks like 260 is the best temp. While extruding at this temp, I did heat lots of popping noise, which makes me believe the filament is wet. The noise did not occur at lower temps.

    Kinda annoying when it’s a brand new roll.