I've noticed that seems to be happening, especially with companies like Amazon, whom I work for, aside from the money they can make from it. That said, we also have an example of that in the form of old Soviet Russia. They had actually eliminated most holidays.
The main two things I like about start menus is that it keeps all your apps out of the way, and in some resemblence of organizatoin, instead of just barfing them all out in one big cluttered mess, which is part of what turns me away from Apple, or Gnome. However, they're not as easy to use on touchscreens. That said, ads deeply nerf this advantage.
I didn't realize that, though it seems to run fine on my potato (Ryzen 5: 1400, 16GB DDR4, Radeon 6770) with the occasional stutter, locked at 30fps 1080p for the most part. I haven't tried faster frame rates yet as I'm trying to mirror the feel of the game between both this system and my Deck.
I haven't gotten Genshin to work on Linux, though it may be because I just made a passing attempt, expecting a ban. Then again, I only play it once a blue moon anyway.
Crossover and Wine are the OG compatibility layers for Windows gameplay on Linux, and while I can't vouch for either one now, as Wine is the only one I used--back in the days of the original Unreal, I can say now that Steam's Proton is fairly straightforward and simple. Pretty much, unless it has some sort of anti-cheat malware, like BattleEye, everything "just works." .. and usually, if the game employs anti-cheat, and they catch you playing (fairly) on Linux, you're usually banned.
Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I've found that it isn't in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What's the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?
While I know I'm not going to get SLA level detail (which I have given up on for now as I keep busting the LCD of my resin printer every set of prints) I am still hoping I can get to something recognizable, usually at 3x size for the figure, which I could do with the CR10 head and the Spider. Problem is, haven't been able to even begin to dial in the calibrations, which is what I'm asking for assistance with. Where is a good place to start my tests at?
I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.
Looks good, though adhesives are notorious for failing once they get warm a few times, and will fail eventually. I would totally put a couple of screws holding them up. Beyond that, love the setup.
Still looking for a snake that's small enough. My normal goto, copper wire, is a challenge to use in small tubes as well.