IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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25

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897

Joined

2 yr. ago

Thanks!

Seeing some of these newer models that work right out the box make me excited! (Although building one yourself is always more fun if you’ve got the time)

You can have a bit of both! Build a Voron and wind up with a pretty darn reliable printer. I posted about mine here.

As promised earlier, here are some prints:

Printers are a lot easier and more repeatable than they were 12 years ago. In FDM the big advances are print speed, quality of life, and filament material. Home SLA printers are also a lot more available than they were 12 years ago, but the overall process here hasn't changed (print, rinse, cure). The big question is if/when SLS will make it to a home user price point.

My prints are mostly self designed and functional. I'll have to dig up some examples once I'm on a computer.

Agree. They also made a post about getting back and their neighbor for making noises at 5am (early, sure) about an hour ago.

I've dabbled in both automotive work and home renovation. Anyone who can do auto body work or interior finishing work well deserves way more credit than they usually get, so big kudos. I am pretty solid at the mechanical bits, but when it comes to finishing/painting things are a lot more difficult for me.

Print finishing is something I've thought about a few times now, but most of my prints are functional and live a pretty hard life. A bit of texture from layer lines and other imperfections is the least of their concerns. That said, I have sanded ASA some and it sands amazingly well. I could see getting it pretty smooth without too much effort and then either using a solvent based or finishing based method. Of course, if your print has a lot of fine detail this is going to be a massive PITA.

You can totally build a Voron anyway! I suggest magnetic panels, which makes popping the top super easy if you want to print PLA. I've run PLA, PETG, TPU, and ASA through mine. I have an under bed carbon filter that does a pretty good job with fumes.

Agree on bike parts being a good print test bed. I'm impressed that anything held up with pedal loads, there's a lot of force there.

My main motive for sticking with ASA is its easily attainable high volumetric flow. I can easily swing 30 mm^3/s on my Rapido without having to jack up temps. Between this, Core-XY motion, and input shaping prints are way faster than my old i3 clone. PETG is quite a bit slower. PLA can be fast, but it's also somewhat brittle.

Makes a huge difference with my junky TPU if it is dry or not

I am happy to have gotten lucky with Overture 95A!

ASA/ABS

I design my own prints too, but I also have a 350mm x 350mm bed. My bed size has lead to some fairly large prints. My printer is a Voron and I originally built it with the stock acrylic enclosure. This was fine for smaller parts (say 150-175 mm and smaller), but despite keeping keeping corners rounded and avoiding rapid shape transitions I still had some prints pull themselves apart or pull the print bed up. Even on cylindrical and rounded rectangle prints, without a solid top or bottom. It wasn't until I insulated my Voron that I was able to pull these larger prints off with a chamber temp of around 58 C.

Maybe I should try another material as so far I've been sticking with polymaker ASA because it's cheap and prints decently. What are you using?

That enclosure might work for smaller ASA prints, but I needed a lot more insulation than a garbage bag to pull off larger prints.

Maybe I got lucky with TPU, but I didn't run into any significant issues with humidity when I printed treads for wagon wheels over the course of two or three days.

TPU will be nearly impossible for your kiddo to destroy. ASA/ABS are rugged, but if your print has thin surfaces it's less strong in my experience than PETG.

I didn't find TPU hard to print personally, just go slow and turn retraction way down or completely off. It will string pretty good, but most slicers have a setting to avoid crossing perimeters that will keep it in check. The only thing I would be wary of is ending up with a floppy print, so make sure the part has some structure.

For smaller prints, agree. For larger prints a cardboard box will do just fine, but it needs a little something in my experience. Not too much mind you.

I made a bad choice and it's time to cut my losses

You've received some good replies on this question, but I think there's also another question at play: an offshoot of identity politics. Many people wrap their personal identity around things. If you question the thing, or put restrictions on it, people take it as an attack on their persona since the thing and their person are so interwoven. You can see this with things like guns, vehicles (motorcycles, car vs truck, auto vs manual, brand x vs brand y), video game consoles, physical media, etc.

Will do, thanks! I totally get having the tweaks in your head or written into the family recipe book with a pen. Our better homes cookbook has tons of notes/tweaks written into it now.

I am simply advocating for shoes that fit your feet. 99% of shoes tend to pretend like your longest toe is your middle toe. I've always found this weird.

This seems pretty close to what you described: https://www.chefkoch.de/rezepte/166041072019596/Suesse-Quarkkloesse.html

It sounds good / I'm thinking about giving them a go. If you find a better recipe let me know.

It could easily be a family recipe. It looks like riffs on this theme are pretty common. Maybe it was a Hungarian recipe? Sounds like a great mystery!

That's fair.

It’s one of the biggest repositories of human-to-human communication on the web.

I am showing my age and have spent decades on various web forums. These sites have thousands, or even tens of thousands, of users and huge quantities of threads some of which can be very deep. Yes, each individual site isn't that big but there are tons of these things scattered around the web and I'm sure they've been crawled. One of the many, many, many manymanymany Ford Mustang forums has > 2 million replies. thirdgen.org, an 80s-early 90s Camaro/Firebird, forum has 763,427 threads with 6.45 million replies going back easily 20 years, which is well before bots.

Discord does have 154M monthly users, so you're probably right that there is more content there than across all the various boards. It's also probably a heck of a lot easier to crawl than a bunch of different web forums.

Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they're doing for z-endstop?

In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they're not baked into the out of the box solution.

On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:

• let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
• wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
• bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
• I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that's used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high

My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.

Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?

Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.

I don't see that being worth much $$ given the massive quantities of that information already available on the web via forums and what not?

Lots of very general light chat and shit posts. It doesn't seem like there's a lot of revenue potential there.

We've been living at the same house for about a decade. We have a tiny tiny creek in our back yard with some unmowed area around it. Our yard is chemical free and we have tons of pollinators. We saw single digit numbers of lightning bugs for nearly the time we lived here. Never more than two a night and most nights none showed up.

The past few years we've seen an uptick. Not loads, but they seem to be making a small comeback. At least in our yard.

I bought a BOM in a box from West3D. I would say the build took 40 hours or so. This includes figuring out what parts to print, mechanical assembly, wiring, and getting klipper up and running.

Edit: maybe 30-40 hours as a guess. I wasn't rushing and built over the course of two months or so as I had time I could spend. I bet I could cut that down a lot on a second build, but even a fast build is going to be 10-15 hours. Things to be careful of: grabbing the correct pull/belts for the z motors when doing initial assembly, otherwise you'll have to tear down later, and belt routing for the gantry. I had to redo that one too, but tear down was less intensive to fix that one.