IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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25

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896

Joined

2 yr. ago

For context, I can run prints on my 2.4 what would take something in the neighborhood of 4 times as long on my old ender 3.

I would put the difference even higher between my 2.4 and my old i3 clone, but I'm also running a 0.6mm nozzle and print with 0.9mm extrusion width / 2 walls and 0.3mm layer heights. My limiting factor is volumetric flow, which I've found to vary between materials (ASA = way easier to print fast than PETG).

You have four paths to get parts for a Voron:

• self source all the parts individually
• get kits for the things you want and self source what you want to be picky on. For example, here's a motion kit
• configure a kit from someone like West3D
• buy a BOM in a box. There are a couple of brands that do this

I personally went the West3D route. It seems like the LDO and formbot BOM-in-a-box options are popular. If you live near a microcenter they offer smaller kits if you want to mix and match or use a brick and mortar. Self sourcing tends to be expensive due to our collective tendancy to buy higher quality than necessary parts and shipping.

Yes, you will be building the thing from a ton of parts. Yes, it will take you a while. If you're comfortable building things there's nothing particular hard about it. You absolutely will not need to solder. Most kits come with premade wiring harness and there's plenty of complete wiring options available even if you buy components. Depending on your goals, you might need to customize your wiring some. This means crimping, which isn't hard per say but you'll probably need to buy a crimper or two and dial in the right amount of squish for your terminal and wire gauge combination. Too much force and you'll wind up severing the wires. Too little and the terminal will come off the wire. Again, not hard but you'll probably need to do it a few times before you develop a feel and get consistent.

Speed on a core-xy, especially acceleration, can be a ton higher than a bed slinger. I have a 350mm^3 Voron keep a 0.6mm nozzle on it, and print with 0.9mm line width and 0.3mm layer heights. I have a Rapido HF and volumetric flow winds up being my bottleneck most of the time.

Also note that when you're going fast, material matters a lot. I can melt ASA faster than PLA/PETG. But... ASA can be a bit more melty so things like overhangs can suffer. And the whole needing a heated chamber thing.

One of the most prevalent mods for my old i3 clone is a z-brace, so...

Better still, he invited the home owner and the arresting officer over:

On July 24, Obama invited both parties to the White House to discuss the issue over a beer, and on July 30, Obama and Vice President Joe Biden joined Crowley and Gates in a private, cordial meeting in a courtyard near the White House Rose Garden; this became known colloquially as the "Beer Summit".

From Wikipedia

That does sound pretty tight. We're very fortunate to have a basement, which is pretty common in the Midwest but not universal. Without it the covid years would have been very tough, especially since our kids were very young at the time and wouldn't have understood "parent working". We wound up having to put a lock on our basement door.

The way your post reads, it seems like you're doing the best you can. I'm sure a kid will move out someday and wish you the best both before and after that occurs!

I also don't have an office space and worked covid from my basement. I think modern homes are too big, but I also totally get the desire for a home office. Unfortunately, for me at least, most homes that have an office also come with things like a formal dining room which seem like a waste of square footage.

When your kids are 18+ they shouldn't be impacting your life that much, assuming you spent the time doing things like chores, boundaries, etc as they were growing up. I moved out at 25. I bought groceries, did yard work, helped clean the house, did my own laundry, etc. I don't care if my kids choose to stay with me past 18.

Be sure to get one for long hair cats if necessary! I didn't realize this was a thing until I tried using our short hair deshedder on our long hair and she promptly got very pissed off. She's still not a super fan of the long hair version, but she will tolerate it.

And you're right - tons and tons of fur comes off when I groom our kitties every few weeks in spring.

Ah, galvanic corrosion. Sealing the heat sets would be a pain as they're open to water on both sides. I also don't tend to take these apart, so I'm tempted to just leave them alone.

I do! But I also know that rebar tie wire is intended for static situation. This whole thing moves around quite a bit when it's covered in leaves on a windy day

All has been revealed.

Your tuning looks great btw, look pretty nice even in the worst case lighting conditions, adhesion not an issue doing this way?

Thanks! I will make a "same print, terrible lighting vs good lighting" post in the next day or two. No, adhesion wasn't an issue. I run klipper with z calibration, so my first layers are very consistent.

My dad asked me to print some stuff he designed for his beekeeping tools, has a bearing surface that’s awkward to print accurately, I’m probably going to resist that with this as inspiration, other than the helper ears I see on the build plate anything else you did?

Most of what I print is self designed. I do my best to make sure the designs are (reasonably) easy to print. For overhangs, printing a part at 45 degrees is basically a cheat code, but it comes with the tradeoff of more iffy bed adhesion.

I printed these with a skirt and some tree supports to improve stability. Beyond that, I didn't do anything special and don't put anything on my bed.

To ask questions, for the application does dimensional accuracy actually matter? AFAIK rebar isn’t exactly the tightest wrt tolerances (I know flat products, not long products, but knowing what hotroll coils look like I’m assuming it’s similar), could probably have gotten away with a different orientation and could probably have avoided supports (I find arches print nicely).

These are ASA parts with 0.3mm high layers. If you haven't printed ASA before, it's a bit more melty than PLA. You're right that rebar isn't super dimensionally consistent, but a 14mm radius cylinder wouldn't have printed very well flat.

Having said that though, thinking strength might be another reason to print the way you did, face down and you have shear & torsion in between layers, thinking that’s still a concern if you printed it standing, but yeah, just thoughts.

I don't think layer lines matter a ton in this particular print. Most of the stress is going to be torque caused by one bar trying to rotate relative to the other bar.

also spy kapton tape, did you find the bubble insulation made much of a difference? I’m putting what’s basically heat barrier fabric on the interior as a first try, I grabbed some rock wool and bubble insulation but it’s thick enough that I’m mildly concerned with it interfering with the gantry, having everything off for some refurb and wow I forgot just how close everything is, they really didn’t waste space eh?

A few answers here.

First, swapping to ACM panels bumped my chamber temps. If you dig through my post history you can find a temp graph comparing before/after. Second, adding a radiant barrier did help, but was less significant than the ACM panels. I do need to do the back panel and want to make my fridge door double pane using one of the stock acrylic sides. Third, I have magnetic panel clips that I modified to give me a bit more space to accommodate the radiant insulation. You would never be able to fit this stuff in with the stock panel attachments.

Happy to hear the photos revealed the mystery, lol.

Believe it or not, the outside fence, which is super jankey, is pretty effective at keeping deer out. Rabbits, not so much :(

I hope so! The zip tie solution only made it one season :(

ASA

45° is a great cheat code for overhangs assuming you can keep the parts on your bed.

It's the center section of a rebar clamp for a plant support structure in my garden. I'm hoping to get a photo of it installed today.

First try. I'm running klipper with z calibration with a bed mesh, so my first layers are very consistent.

I manually painted the trees in two locations. The first was below the cylinder cutouts even start to give the print a touch more stability, but I probably could have gotten away without them. The second was for the small overhang at the top of the cylinder. This is ASA, which tends to sag on overhangs a bit more than PLA. A bevel would have been a great way to eliminate the need for the second set of trees.

The prints are the middle section of a rebar clamp for my garden. I'll try to post a photo of the completed unit in a day or two. So not a jig per say, but functionally very similar. Good eye!

10/10 explanation. I would add two things.

First, there is a massive amount of variation in "normal" people. I'm personally of the belief that we spend too much time classifying people and that can set unreasonable expectations. Just because someone was/wasn't diagnosed as

<x>

Second, there are cultural norms and elements that interplay here. I am a New Englander living in the Midwest. I consider my communication style to be direct and frank, which means that I try to objectively say things as they are. I grew up being interacted with this way. This style of communication is somewhat contrary to the norms of the Midwest, which can result in people interpreting me as being confrontational and lacking empathy.