IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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25

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896

Joined

2 yr. ago

I dunno, I live in suburbia and our kids manage to spend a lot of time outside with neighborhood kids. It's a nice change of pace over the same neighborhood 10 years ago. The neighborhood is starting to turn over generationally and there are a lot more people outside now.

Have a conversation? Go for a walk? Play one of many different types of non-sport or sport games? Generally hang out. The possibility are endless.

I was wondering why our clear skies the past few days looked like they had a layer of lake effect cloud cover. This also explains that.

Nice work!

One of the interesting things about modeling and then printing replacement parts is figuring out which features matter (like shaft diameters and spacing in this design) and which you can take some liberties with to make printing easier. For example, for the part on the left you may have been able to add tapered feature to the rod insider to let you print the part standing on the flat bit on the far left without any supports. Another possibility might be trying to get the part to lie lengthwise by modifying the cylinder some as arced parts have deceivingly big overhangs. Perhaps you could give it a small flat spot.

Lead with a shower then have a clean bath?

You're right that phillips screws are prone to cam out if theres a size mismatch, but it doesn't stop there. Apply too much torque or have a misshapen screw head or bit and you're out of luck.

The challenge with ASA and ABS re:warping is chamber temps, not so much bed temperature. Both shrink pretty significantly compared to PLA and if your chamber is too cool and/or your print is too big or has difficult geometry you're going to be in for a rough time.

I've lived at this latitude in a couple different states. From what I've experienced, the climate in the mid west is similar to that of PA, NY, NJ, CT, RI, etc. Snowfall changes vary radically based on your proximity to a lake and generally speaking anything west of PA is super flat.

To me, the nice thing about SE MI is it the size of the metro and the quantity of things to do within it. The people are also a bit more friendly than the east coast, which is nice too.

The fence is about 6.5 feet tall and seems to keep deer out pretty well. Our garden is near a creek that deer like to walk along, but I've never caught a deer in our garden if I remember to put all the gates on.

Printing things at a 45 degree angle is a magic cheat code for tons of overhangs. It can also help give your prints more resolution as most designs tend to not care if the "tall" layers are diagonally oriented.

This is ASA. I've had some PLA+ parts that have been outside for 7-8 years and are holding up really well. The old garden gate hooks were PETG and were still in pretty good shape after 3 full seasons and had to flex pretty often.

Granted, I live in SE MI so our sun isn't super duper intense.

And totally agree, once you get in the mode of "I can print something to make this better" you start finding more and more things to make.

Android is built in the Linux kernel. That's actually some of what causes this - Android's permissions model takes the Linux model and amplifies it. Apps are treated like users to prevent them from messing with each other's files. If an app uses Android's downloads manager it can write to the downloads directory, but it can only see the files that it put there.

I would send them an email. Depending on which kit you're talking about they could probably figure something out or give you an ETA.

There are some Linux users with iPhones, perhaps that's what they meant?

Apple is almost the tale of two companies.

From the software usability perspective, they have the "it just works" reputation and that might be true if you're doing really basic stuff. I've found both windows and Linux to be much more user friendly if you want to do mildly advanced things.

Their hardware is generally pretty solid but comes at a premium, especially once you start talking about increasing RAM/SSD capacity. I have both a MacBook pro M3 pro and a Snapdragon X Elite Lenovo Yoga slim 7x. The 7x can give great battery life, but is much more inconsistent in doing so. On the other hand, the 7x has an amszing 3k OLED screen, has a removable m3 SSD, and you can upgrade to 32 GB of RAM for around $100.

What I find interesting is that a large swath of developers have macs. I get it for some use cases (ARM emulation on ARM vs doing it on x86), but it seems like it's a bit of a status symbol for others.

Speed

Print duration is dependent on two components:

• How fast is your print head moving? I run velocities/accelerations similar to you partially because I have a 350 which is pushing the limits of 2020 extrusion and 6mm a/b belts as well as...
• How much filament you're laying as the print head moves. This is influenced by your nozzle diameter, which in turn influences what kind of line width and layer height you can expect. It's also influenced your extruder's ability to melt plastic (eg volumetric flow). For ASA/ABS I limit volumetric flow to 35 mm^{3/sec, or PLA I limit to 25 mm}3/sec, and for PETG I limit to 20 mm^3/sec

My print speed is often limited by volumetric flow - not the actual speed of my print head, so I haven't bothered chasing higher ceilings. Granted, tend to print I print large/chunky/functional things so my goal is to lay down as much material as possible. If you're chasing lots of fine detail, a smaller Voron can go faster than what I have but isn't going to be that much faster than where you are now.

Print Quality

Thanks to a combination of CoreXY (rigidity) and Klipper (pressure advance, input shaping), I have basically zero ringing/ghosting show up in prints. It is worth talking about quality expectations though. Harsh lighting can reveal that layer lines are not perfectly aligned layer to layer. Not sure if this is a Voron thing or is it's just more obvious now that my layers are a lot more noise free.

First layer

Automated gantry leveling (Klipper will get the bed and gantry to be 'perfectly' in plane thanks to 2.4s being able to mechanically move the four corners of the gantry independently - trident does similar, but moves the bed instead), a klicky probe and a Z calibration macro, and bed mesh make my first layers extremely consistent print to print.

One caveat: because the printer is enclosed and big (if you go for a 350), if you print sequential objects without letting the printer fully heat soak, the first layer will progressively get a touch higher and higher between prints as the printer expands in the z-axis.

I replied to another post with a list of mods, so take a look at the other comments in the post for some out of box mods.

As a 350 owner, be aware of two things.

First, big bed = big chamber = heat soak takes a while and you have a lot more surface area to lose heat from. If you want to print big ABS/ASA parts you're going to want ACM panels, a better sealed/insulated front door, and potentially a radiant layer inside the printer.

Second, the big printer limits your rate of acceleration some compared to a smaller CoreXY. IMO if you have a big printer to print big things you're probably not going to have small/finely detailed parts that often. Those are the kinds of parts that will go a touch slower. But honestly 5k acceleration is orders of magnitude faster than most bed slingers can achieve and 10-15k is only a 2-3x increase so you're not giving up that much.

Other than than, no regrets about the 350.

I assume you mean "what mods do I recommend out of the box"?

1. Klicky. I personally think tap adds too much mass and klicky is great
2. Magnetic panel clips to make it way easier/faster to get the panels on/off
3. An under bed filter with carbon. I'm using "the filter". Even if you're not going to print ASA/ABS the extra chamber heat helps eliminate warping on large PETG parts s
4. If you're going to be going to be building a larger printer and print ASA/ABS skip to ACM panels. Also do #5
5. The fridge door is so much nicer than the stock double doors, but isn't something you need to do out of the box
6. You're probably going to run into wire breaks in the cable chains - especially the x and y chains. An umbilical makes that much more unlikely. You don't have to have to USB or CAN to do this

... Off the top of my head, those are the big ones

I got CNC parts from microcenter. They had the chaotic labs kit in a differently branded box for significantly less $$ than available on the web. The QR code for documentation inside the box went straight to chaotic labs and the parts look to be identical.

As with anything, do some level of research before you buy.

Clearly you've never used a Mac. It wasn't until 2024 that you could snap windows, they have a built in dark mode but the word processor that ships with their computer requires you to use a dark page template if you want black background/white text, and lord forgive you if you want to take a screenshot.