Agree that this seems like a bigger than desired difference.
Thanks for the point of reference. I am going to be doing some measuring and math tonight to try to figure out where the source of error is and how much it might/not matter when hot.
Before nitehawk I was using the same hot end and I copied the thermistor type from my prior config while setting up. The bed and extruder were much closer to each other when cold then.
Oh, that ` was me fighting with markdown to get the code portion of the post nicely formatted. I couldn't figure out newlines and gave up.
I don't think heat is getting to the extruder via the NH. The thermistor is potted in a m3 bung that's threaded into the extruder. The extruder itself is at ambient a few mm away.
They're 104nt's. I have never calibrated a thermistor for one of my printers before, other than updating the firmware (compile marlin, config Klipper) and choosing the appropriate value.
I did dig up a datasheet for the thermistor, will have to check resistance tonight.
You could buy a large PEI sheet in sticker form and put it directly on your glass bed. Removal with a razor shouldn't be difficult.
Is your bed heated? If yes, prints will stick well to the PEI when it's hot and pop off when it's cooled down. I have an ultrabase glass bed on my i3 clone and that's exactly how it works there. I also gave a similar experience with my Voron with a PEI coated spring steel bed.
If your bed is unheated you might still be in hard mode.
As a final thought, go hot and slow for you first layer. I usually bump my first layer by 5-10 °C, depending on the material, and print it at 30-40 mm/sec. Even though I could probably go faster I'll take consistently in my first layer.
I suspect they meant ABS given ASA is also in their reply. No idea how good either material would be in this application, I just don't think it's possible to print PVC.
That's a lot of retractions. What is this filtering? Maybe you could print a more open structure and line it in mesh?
Also, where is this part in relation to chlorine? I can't imagine a printed part would hold up very well in high chlorine concentrations, but PETG is fairly inert...
Thanks! I'll have to stop by and pick up a spool. I would rather start with something that prints well for someon else than some random spool.
I'm guessing you mean Bambu? If so, you could print a [Nevermore](https://github.com/nevermore3d] and/or Bento box. They're both in-chamber active carbon filters and will help cut down on fumes. This is all I was running before the exhaust fan. Regarding the exhaust fan, I've found I don't need much flow - just enough to keep a slight negative pressure in the printer. I remember finding someone who ran their exhaust fan through a 3m respirator cartridge and they found that to be pretty effective when combined with an in-chamber carbon filter.
Klipper (firmware), mainsail (Web interface), obico (for failure det action) and some others. I can see why some would appreciate having a more turnkey option, but I agree with you that Klipper and mainsail make for a great pairing.
If heavy duty means "lets you carry more weight in your bed and tow more" do not do it unless you actually have weight in your bed or tow a lot. To do this, the springs have a higher spring rate which makes the ride very hard unless you're loaded.
Huh, any particular ABS brand(s)? I am tempted to grab a roll. I've been running polymaker's ASA and other than warpage on big parts with my lower chamber temps (yay big printer with lots of enclosure surface area) it prints fairly well.
I run the filter inside an enclosed printer with an exhaust fan.
You're saying ABS is printing easier for you than ASA? That's interesting. From my limited understanding, ASA has the reputation of being easier to print.
What brands/blends? I've been printing basically only ASA and PETG for a little while now. Haven't tried ABS.
It will decompose, but only it a hot compost pile.
To some extent, this means large scale composting, but you could theoretically do it at home if you live somewhere with four seasons (specifically fall) and have trees that drop leaves on your property or nearby. Let your grass get a bit taller as the trees start turning and mulch/bag the grass and leaf mixture. Bonus points if you have a ratio of 30 carbon (brown stuff) to 1 nitrogen (green stuff) by weight. "Normal" composting into. This is why big piles of fresh mulch get pretty warm and stream in the middle.
I don't know what it would take to break down PLA in compost, but suspect it would take more time than a typical home pile if you manage to get it hot. It would probably be benefit from shredding to speed things up, as would the rest of the stuff in a typical compost pile. Amusingly, your PLA is probably ripe for getting whacked with a hammer, or a hammer mill.
IMO there's little need to buy new in the computer world unless you want to do something silly like have a snapdragon x laptop or have the disposable funds to go the gaming rig route.
My desktop is a retired business workstation, a HP Z420. I bought it for $250, installed a smaller SSD ($100 new) for the OS + apps, upgeaded to the "best" Xenon that fit the socket ($150 used), upgraded to 64 GB RAM ($107 used, yay ECC memory being dirt cheap on the used market), and a 1070TI ($225 used, purchased just before covid).
It's more than fast enough for my needs still.
This was all about 4-5 years ago, so you could probably do even better with more modern hardware.
E-steps. Mark your filament about 125mm from a known reference point, extrude 100mm, measure again. What percentage of 100 did you get to? Adjust your e-steps accordingly and try again. You should never have to mess with this number ever again unless you physically change parts in your extruder. More detailed guide
Temperature. Print a temp tower. Choose the temp that looks the best and offers good layer adhesion. Your filament will extrude differently based on your extruder temp
Flow rate / extrusion multiplier. This will require more typing from me, but there are a number of ways you can generate test prints for this, so check the linked guide. More detailed EM multiplier guide.
After you get #1, never touch it again unless you change things like your extruder gears. #2/#3 are a good idea whenever you start a new roll of filament, although I personally don't bother unless I'm trying a new material, brand, or color.
The PWM signal once it starts getting jittery is basically only 0 or 100% and corresponds pretty well to the swings in temperature.
I've moved the head hot and cold by hand and haven't gotten any weird behavior. Normally when I have a wire break there's a very specific location that will reliably fail. That's not the case this time.
I am less concerned about the board temp and much more curiosity about the reported temporary difference between the extruder and bed.
I totally agree that the nitehawk PCB temp is quite possibly normal.