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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)RB
Posts
13
Comments
148
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • Agree 100% as a e3v2 owner. Regardless of what printer you get, it WILL break/lose calibration/dumbfound you at some point, at which point you will either be throwing time or money at it, or both. My suggestion would be to get the best reviewed and most popular printer that fits your expected maximum build volume, as there will be a larger user base to help you when something does go wrong, and despite what several people here have said, I'd avoid used at all costs until you have some experience under your belt and know what you're looking for. As another commenter said, if you truly are o ly going to break it out occasionally, there really isn't a need to drop a ton of money on one, you can get acceptable quality relatively cheap nowadays.

  • I love practical prints, so much better than "check out this character bust!", especially when you designed it yourself. Currently making soundhole covers for cigar box guitars and trying to figure out a good way to spray DIY conductive paint on them to nickel plate. Whenever I get it figured out I'll post but so far nothing to write home about.

  • I used to work retail loss prevention and had several of the exact opposite- we'd get contract security to supplement our staff as a visual deterrent and they would then think they were given carte blanche to hassle whoever the fuck they wanted. It really didn't take long to realize that as long as I treated shoplifters with respect, more often than not they would come with, take care of the paperwork, get their ticket from the real cops and then be on their way unless the jurisdiction required they get booked. But there would always be that one fuckhead trying to steal thousands of dollars worth of shit and then act like we had no right to stop or detain them . I know it varies by where you live, but we were fully allowed to make citizens arrests and would do so daily. In 21 years I got subpoenaed four times and testified once. Never lost one case.

  • A agree with what was said above, but I have to add that if you decide to go with direct drive you'll also need to take the time to dial in your retraction distance and speed in your slicer. When my E3V2 stock extruder teeth wore out, I went all in and got a Microswiss NG direct drive extruder/hotend. If you don't dial in your retraction distance and speed you will likely get tons of ooze. You'll also need to recalibrate pretty much everything from your z offset, e-steps, input shaping if you use kilpper, belt tension... the works. Is it worth it? That depends. In my case, yes it was, buy ymmv

  • Why first fdm, then resin? If you want resin printer just go that path. Resin is good for miniatures while filaments are better for mechanical properties and bigger size. Fdm is faster, but still extremely slow. For 20x20x20 cm model you need like 1 day or more to complete. Get something that supports klipper firmware, like ender (probably most cheap printers) and expect extra cost on upgrades.

    ^this, verbatim. My advice is, think about what it is you want to print and go from there. If you're going to try to make functional parts with the occasional "cute" gift for someone, chances are you'd want to go with FDM and Fusion 360, then it's dealers choice on which slicer you prefer. Then think about what you're using those parts for, and figure out what filament will be best for that part, whether it needs to sit in a hot car, for example, you'll be looking at ABS / ASA versus something that sits inside on a desk and doesn't need to support weight, where PLA is your cheap and generally easiest filament to use. Then, research what printers are capable of printing said filament, as not all 3d printers can handle higher temps, need enclosures, etc.

    On the other hand, if you're going to make tabletop miniatures or need the properties of resin for whatever reason, you'll want to go with resin, and modeling software such as Blender as others have suggested