God is a dick.
remotelove @ remotelove @lemmy.ca Posts 66Comments 1,908Joined 2 yr. ago
remotelove @ remotelove @lemmy.ca
Posts
66
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1,908
Joined
2 yr. ago
I would look into something like Doppler instead of Vault. (I don't trust any company acquired by IBM. They have been aquiring and enshittifying companies before there was even a name for it.)
Look into how any different solutions need their keys presented. Dumping the creds in ENV is generally fine since the keys will need to be stored and used somehow. You might need a dedicated user account to manage keys in its home folder.
This is actually a host security problem, not generally a key storage problem per se. Regardless of how you have a vault setup, my approach here is to create a single host that acts as a gateway for the rest of the credentials. (This applies to if keys are stored in "the cloud" or in a local database somewhere.)
Since you are going to using a Pi, you should focus on that being a restricted host: Only run your chosen vault solution on it. Period. Secure and patch it to the best of your ability and use very specific host firewall rules for minimum connectivity. Ie: Have one user for ssh in and limit another user account to managing vault, preferably without needing any kind of elevated access. This is actually a perfect use case for SELinux since you can put in some decent restrictions on the host for a single app (and it's supporting apps...)
If you are paranoid enough to run a HIDS, you can turn on all the events for any type of root account actions. In theory once the host is configured, you shouldn't need root again until you start performing patches.
I dump memory more often than you would think. It's usually not obfuscated or encrypted in any meaningful way even though it is fairly trivial to do so.
It's good practice to scour through any bloatware installed on windows laptops. Since bloatware is generally written by the lowest bidder, you can find all kinds of keys and phone-home urls (sometimes with all the parameters) and other weird things. Just fire up a decent hex editor and search for strings in the dump file. You don't need to know jack about reverse engineering either.
Second this.
Resins have a typical use-time for within a year. Some may last longer, some may not. Some may start to show exposure issues. Some just start to separate or solidify partially. Some resins don't care at all. (It should be written somewhere on the bottle when the resin was made and when it should be used by.)
This is a helluva "unknown variable" you are working with, is my point. Resin is the absolute core of any printing functionality (obviously) and print settings are highly dependant on the resins qualities.
Just because I am so damn picky during my testing and learning process, I would abandon testing with that resin completely and be thankful it even printed a calibration test at all. (I would get a fresh bottle, is what I am saying.)
However, in the interest of using the resin, I would YOLO the exposure time (increase it) and start printing prototypes or other strange experiments. There is a bunch of things I could test even if using a sub-optimal resin.
You could spend time with the rest of that bottle and tweak the settings into partial-perfection. How reusable are those settings for future bottles though?
I see a lot of inconsistent exposure, which is super weird.
How old is the resin? New? Was it purchased at the time you got the printer? Was it well shaken? One particular resin I have will separate hard and basically needs a blender to get broken up again to be capable of printing.
The biggest issue I see is the gap in the outline at the very top of the print. That shouldn't happen that late in the print at all. It's iffy resin or there are small solid chunks floating around in your tank.
My first week with my resin printer was spent testing exposure and probably did about a hundred or so "cones of calibration" ( https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/3d-printing/the-cones-of-calibration-v3/ ) with a few different resins.
While a person generally needs to be a little on the crazy side to do that much testing, it was effective. After all of the that testing, what I found out is that comparing two prints with different settings is more valuable than just printing one single calibration test.
See if you can manage to print at least 8 tests at 8 different exposure levels. (I prefer 16, but you do you.) You will quickly learn how to interpret calibration tests and how exposure works.
But, back to your question and my official interpretation: You have a printer that is capable of printing! Yay! I ain't being sarcastic and this is good. You do need some comparison prints though...
There was a precursor to butyl tape that I am thinking of specifically. It was more clay-like and just as nasty. (It would have been easier (subjective) to pinch off balls of the stuff and cram it in those screw holes.)
No mind. You had the correct solution, me thinks.
I absolutely agree and the goal is to extend that time for as long as possible. (But yeah, anti seize is actually a really good idea.)
Sounds like you have never had the "pleasure" of working with coax junction sealants before. It's not too bad, but it's also not fun either. It is very effective though.
I would personally cram in something related to COAX-SEAL into the screw holes. Having setup a few cables outside for antennas (ham radio) I have learned to never trust metal to metal connections when exposed to weather.
Coax-seal might be a bit hard to work with, so maybe some silicone caulk would work?
I remember a couple of first dreams from before I was a toddler. (I have memories from a loooong time ago, actually.) My dreams at the time kinda blended with reality and I couldn't tell the difference.
Remote probes are getting super cheap now, so shop around for those if you can. They are awesome for the days you want to grill a steak traditionally but most of all, it's awesome for bone-in chicken cuts. (I prefer consistent heat on my chicken the whole time and don't want to keep jabbing at it. Cooking with ADHD can be pure hell at first and a steady stream of data helps with that.)
Aw shit! Knew I forgot something... Like most of Kenji's stuff, there is a ton of technique that a simple recipe can't cover, so here is the video: https://youtu.be/pvZcTPOpQnY
(I used just regular raw Italian Sausage from the grocery store. Nothing fancy. I don't think he specified what he used, but not sure. I should note this recipe fixes texture issues that can happen with the bread.)
Yep, I prefer a proper foldable probe and it's extremely versatile around the kitchen.
The "fingers to the ball of your thumb" to check doneness of a steak is bullshit, most of the time. It only really works on steak that has a consistent grain throughout, sometimes. (Just showed this to my daughter on a reverse seared NY Strip that felt completely different across the cut.)
Context: The yellow dot is the tcell and the rest is the cancer cell. I found a video of this image, but cannot verify the exact source so I don't want to post it. (All the links to this point right back at social media that I could find.)
This is a an article that has a neat gif of the process of how these specialized tcells work: https://viterbischool.usc.edu/news/2025/04/new-smart-immune-cells-a-breakthrough-for-long-lasting-tumor-destruction/
See, that is what I thought at first until I thought about the proportions. Having one arm shorter than the other is possible....)
(FYI, my comments are ~50% /s)
That's the right arm, not the umbilical cord, my dude.
Addendum: https://youtu.be/KSTFKJqy9AQ
Mistakes are OK! (I added the word "intentional" as an afterthought to cover this contingency as the statement still remains true.)
True. It does match the profile, but I am usually not in the habit of profile diving unless I smell a troll.
Something tells me this isn't a bad thing. If there is an edge of the universe, it's probably going to be a very strange place.