rambos @ rambos @lemmy.world

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8

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223

Joined

2 yr. ago

For calibration you need temp tower and flow tower. You can just print hollow single wall cube with no top/bottom to make it quick print. Keep in mind that PLA especially quality one is quite forgiving so temp tower might look the same at all heights. Meassuring diameter and tuning flow will probably solve your problem

And one more thing, you said your first layer is always good. It can be good because you have perfect nozzle/bed distance and flow, BUT it can also look good if your distance is wrong and you compensate it with flow. So you might need to increase both flow and distance. You can also change flow for first layer only or change flow after first layer

You are underextruding, but it would also help if you add few more top layers. You have gaps in walls as well. You might be underextruding due to wrong flow (or esteps) or too low temp, but there are other possible reasons as well. Try printing at 105% flow

Oh nice to hear that its so nice and simple GUI

Pic would help, but it seems like be your bowden tube is not seated properly. I had 5-6 mm retraction on 750 mm long bowden tube, and after I reduced play in push-fit connectors Im using <5 mm. If you need 7 mm to remove stringing its obvious sign that something is wrong. Make sure your bowden tube is not moving too much. You can try diferent retraction speed as well. Also, some filaments are just bad with stringing, especially wet petg. Sometimes I have to accept some amount of stringing to avoid using dangerous retraction distance.

To fix play in bowden tube, you can cut 10 mm of tube on both ends. Your locking mechanism will bite fresh part of bowden tube. After you push the tube in the connector, lift collar with your nail, then push the tube even more, then press the collar in and pull it out with safety clip while still pushing bowden tube.

It might be diferent on your hotend side, since your nozzle will push against bowden tube. If you have play there you will have bad time (leaking, clog, etc).

Make sure you cut the tube perpendicular enough for good joint and tighten your nozzle when heated

Edit: typo

I dont have wifi SS but I do have another pair with micro usb port. I got magnetic micro usb cable since i forget im on charger when leaving table. You can plug in tiny peace and then just place cable close enough. Bit off topic but might be useful

Btw i still se my post after clearing catch

Im sorry about that. I wanted to help, but wasnt thinking. My post deserves to be deleted and next time im gonna try MAS

Its not the only problem obviously, but cant recommend any scanner sorry

If that is the only problem there are many solutions like this.

Just make sure you didn't melt PTFE since its kinda unhealthy

BTW if you didn't mod your printer you don't have direct drive. Bowden tube is not long, but its still bowden setup. I'm not sure what sticky thing is, but it can be filament, PTFE or dust (on the outside of your filament - you can guide filament trough some kind of sponge to clean it before extruder). Nothing else should be there. If reducing retractions fixed the problem you might check your hotend fan. For high retractions you need proper cooling to avoid heat creep (assuming thats the problem). Not having all metal hotend with heat break makes it much harder ofc. What retraction settings do you use (now and before)?

You can also reduce stringing by increasing travel speed, using lower temps and smaller nozzle.

Just curious... Why would VPN make easier to download/seed? I live in one of the shitty countries where most people who download pirated stuff don't even understand its not legal lol. VPN cant speed up your connection, but I got it anyway for safety (aka nerd behavior 😂). Speed is the same, only wallet is lighter

Well if you can tighten belts properly you are golden. Cantilever is not wrong, just requires bigger cross sections due to much higher load. Enjoy your printer mate

Google takeout lets you download everything from drive. You get download links on e-mail in few hours after request. Not sure can that solve your problem, but solution you found is obviously better.

Looks like top 7 can be mounted in place of main gun and 5 on the bottom below.

BTW OP this looks amazing, hard to tell what skill is better, 3D modeling, printing or photography :D

You are talking about google drive? Why do you have read only pdf? Is that team G drive? Sorry thats new to me. Did you try google takeout?

Seems like you have 400/200 (download/upload) speed which is sick imo. I have 180/20 atm, moving soon to a new place with fiber connection woop, cant wait

Same here, but some guys had corrupted data and unable to restore. Thats why Im using both duplicaty and kopia

I see infil between outer and inner walls. If you want to remove inner wall you need to modify your model (CAD, blender, etc). You also have support in the middle, but it should be possible to remove it in slicer.

Not sure, but that hole might be there to reduce print time.