For less than 1k you can get a brand new bambu lab p1s. I dont have it but its recommended a lot (not open source tho).
Features:
Nozzle size (doesnt matter, better check how difficult is to replace the nozzle)
Max bed temperature and max nozzle temp defines what materials you can print
Mechnics - coreXY is probably better than cartesian (less moving mass for faster printing), smooth rods and rails are better than wheels
Camera is fun to have, but all other AI crap is not necessary for sure. For 1k I would expect printer that prints great even without automatic bed leveling (not sure is there any without one today)
Maintanence:
Clean the printer at least once a month, relube rods with sewing oil and threaded rods with grease
Without edditing the model, they can split it in 2 parts (or more) in slicer software (which is used anyway). That way you need to glue them together, sand and paint. How it looks will more depend on your sanding and painting skills than 3D printing quality. Printers can usually print up to 200 or 300 mm in all 3 dimmensions so you will end up with that many parts depending on how big you want your final product to be. Probably best to choose PETG or ABS filament since they are common and will not melt on the sun. Best to convert the file in STL and ask for a price. This kind of model, if split in 2 halves, shouldnt be difficult to print even without supports
I never used ASA, but can jump in with few designing tips. I see you are already using mouse ears, but you can also add bigger filets in corners and maybe make few holes on the bottom (not large enough to allow containers to fall down ofc). It might not fit to your liking or needs tho
Im bit confused tbh. Have you even forwarded any ports on your ISP router?
You are safe if you havent. You can use all arrs at home safely and stick with gluetun to hide your trafic from ISP. Its good to have firewall, but only people on your home network can access your server. You have opened only ports that you need in UFW and thats perfect.
In case you want to access your services when not at home, you have to deal with security and feels like most comments are about this. If this is what you are looking for then I would suggest setting up wireguard VPN or look into tailscale (or alternatives). Both options are safe enough IMO, much safer than exposing ports 80 and 443
May I ask why grounding is concerning? Im not expert, but afaik normal wall switches dont use ground wire and ceiling lights may use one. I thought if wall switch is made of plastic there is no need for grounding. Please correct me if Im wrong, I want to learn. I was looking at sonoff zbmini-l2, but didnt buy any yet
May I ask why this mobo comes with CPU? I guess CPU can be replaced, but I cant find that one sold independently. I have no experience with this kind of hardware, but seems like it could be cheaper to buy MBO and CPU from local store. But again, im used to desktop components only (kind of), this one could be better value for $
Im looking for simmilar thing as OP, a private chat server for 3-5 users. Your post seems super usefull.
I've checked snikkets docker-compose and there are proxy and certs containers included. Can I use existing NPM reverse proxy with that docker-compose do you know? Asking before I start modifying docker-compose on my own trial and error approach
Im not sure if PID tuning will fix your issue, but its highly recommended and worth a try. You should do it after any even minor change of hardware (like you did with your hotend and heatbed). PID values define temperature curve and with wrong values you can have some weird problems like unstable temperature or too slow response. Imagine you set nozzle temp to 240, but it is oscilating +-5C, but there are many other possible issues. Its usually just few commands that can be sent using octoprint and be done in few minutes. You should PID tune your hotend and heated bed. Googling printer name + PID tuning should lead you in the right direction. Hope it helps, cheers
I havent been printing ABS a lot and its been 5+ years since last print. I usually fix that issue by leaving heated bed on for like 45 min or 1h before printing. That would increase ambient temp and make temp more stable. Reducing hotend and bed temperatue after few layers can help, but I see you've tried that already.
Part cooling fan can also be an issue if its cooling too much. I think I was running it at 30%.
Entire print speed was set to 60steps and 20 steps for infill with 110% flow rate.
What do you mean with this? Speed is usually in mm/s. Also, why 110% flow? Are you trying to fix underextrusion? If you want better layer bonding you can use wider line width, lower layer height and print more slowly.
Have you done PID tuning, flow and temp calibration?
Thats what I thought until I found out how much 4k projectors cost. Now I think 1080p is enough even for huge screens 😂
Honestly, Ive seen a movie on 80+ screen at 1080p and it looks amazing to me
Indeed, this sounds nice! I think 30W to power the server + 6HDD is really fine.
I wasnt clear about that. I have only 2 SSDs and one HDD (thats ~30W), but motherboard supports up to 6 SATA disks. Im afraid power would increase with 6 HDDs. For example, I had it at 22W with 3 SSDs (before I bought that HDD)
what parts you used from your old laptops?
I used parts from desktop PCs, not from laptops. So I have:
MSI Z270-A PRO
G3930 with stock cooler
2x 8GB RAM (bought these)
Forgot what PSU exactly, but 550W (would be better if its rated power is lower)
I would rate print quality 10/10, but that made me zoom in and found a gap between two printed parts 😀 OP, it looks too good for that gap! Please fix that asap! Joking ofc, I think its amazing honestly...also dont even know how did you assemble that, but throwing this pic here just in case you want to know how I deal with alignement when gluing 2 parts 😉
Yeah, I also had issues with raspberry pi 4 and USB drives. Even with working USB drives I prefer SATA by a mile. Like others said, transcoding can be avoided most likely, but you still have to deal with USB...
I ended up recycling old desktop PC components and made all-in-one NAS/media/docker server, while rpi is just 2nd pihole DNS server now. I have ATX MBO with 6 SATA3 + M2 slot and old, cheap intel G3930. The CPU supports QuickSync and it can transcode at least 3 1080p streams at once. I didnt test 4K since I dont have any screen with that resolution. My setup is probably <100€ used without drives. It drains 5x more electricity compared to rpi4, but thats still low IMO 30W (30€/year where I live). CPU temp is usually 30-40 C so its super silent (case fans are not even running), only HDD is making noise. It was worth for me, Im super happy with upgrade
For less than 1k you can get a brand new bambu lab p1s. I dont have it but its recommended a lot (not open source tho).
Features:
Camera is fun to have, but all other AI crap is not necessary for sure. For 1k I would expect printer that prints great even without automatic bed leveling (not sure is there any without one today)
Maintanence:
Clean the printer at least once a month, relube rods with sewing oil and threaded rods with grease