Industrial linear rails can cost more than the printer itself. They should be mounted on proper flat surface like tooling plate (aluminium extrusions are far from best option) with extra attention to mounting tolerances. Smooth rods and "wheels" are way more forgiving to any missalignement.
Well...there are knockoffs like hiwin on ebay, and they seem to work for many people even mounted on aluminium extrusions. I think you should get your frame as square as possible first and see can you stay on wheels motion system to avoid upgrading cost. If frame is not good enough for wheels I would be afraid of even more issues with rails (binding and simmilar). But keep in mind I have no experience with your printer or any kind of wheel system and I never did upgrade from wheels to rails or anything like that. Im just trying to help, but hopefully someone who did that kind of upgrade can provide better answers
I bet most of the power is used by spinning disks. My setup (diy desktop) used 22W with 3 SSDs, but after replacing one SSD with 3.5" HDD it went up to 35W
You can add external library path to your nextcloud folder. Then you can see everething in immich, but immich cant eddit or delete files from external library.
Maybe nothing if that app is acting like a real kill switch. Otherwise, bad kill switch might leak your IP when disconnecting frim VPN or simmilar. Binding qbit and gluetun makes it impossible to leak, but there might be more good alternatives. I was just following what most people recommend tbh
I dont own prusa, but know some people that do. Dont know how many hours your machine did, but Prusa is a freaking workhorse! Feels like you are talking about unlimited issues I had with my first printer (bad designed prusa i3 knockoff). I replaced it with Ultimaker 2+ and that thing is still printing and looking like new. Sadly ultimaker is not in the open source mood anymore lol, and they are super expensive
If your motherboard died you are deffo unlucky, same goes with PSU. I would probably replace what needs to be replaced and continue the jurney. If I was buying a new machine I would probably buy Bambu P1S or build a voron. I know you said you dont want bambu, I prefer open source as well, but bambu just look like great value for the $ and awesome community feedback (told that to a friend recently and he received broken bambu p1s hehe). Creality is not new, but if you want reliable machine and quality parts I would stay away from it.
I know I didnt provide answer to your questions, just throwing my thoughts
If you intend to cast spells from a window you are already more advanced witch than most of us. I dont understand why you want to check your spells at first place, just shoot some and ask people how it feels
Haha sorry for trolling, but it sounded like that to me for some reason and I couldnt stop laughing. Its probably funny only to me, but im posting it anyway 😂
overall time to print will still be similar compared to a .4 noz.
I agree with you mostly, but I wouldnt say simmilar time even though it can be even slower. 0.6 nozzle can usually print much wider lines (again less details) and therefore much faster. It depends on settings and model ofc, but I go for bigger nozzle just to increase line width and layer height (to speed up print by a lot!).
Line width can also be changed. Depending on the nozzle shape, you can print 0.5-0.6 mm wide lines using 0.4 nozzle without ruining the quality (depends on the model ofc). There are some best practice values for nozzle size / line width / layer height ratios, but no one can stop you from experimenting.
To increase strength, its true you want wider lines, but there are many other important factors like filament type, print orientation, temperature, speed, etc.
In general, bigger nozzle gives lower resolution and faster print time. But dont forget thermal limit of your hotend (max flow). 0.8 nozzle might not provide higher speed compared to 0.6 if you are printing fast and hitting your hotend limit already. Swapping nozzles is quick and easy on most printers. They are cheap and I think everyone should try different nozzle sizes, dont take that freedom from yourself 😉. For example, you can reduce XY speeds and still print much faster with bigger nozzle. For real size helmets I wouldnt use nothing smaller than 0.6 mm just because of print time
Bind gluetun with torrent client for a real kill switch. If you trust your VPN provider then you should be safe. Mullvad is probably the most reputable provider, but since they removed PF I moved to airVPN. I dont live in germany tho 😜
There are other alternatives to torrents, but private trackers should be more safe than public ones. You need invite or pass the interview for most private trackers, but I guess you know that already
Sad storry dude. I am running POPOS with gtx1060 as my daily driver for a year now. I used to have 3 monitors, but have 2 atm. Im using rustdesk (tried more apps and still looking for the best one) to connect to my office PC (windows, single monitor) and the other way around. Everything works great, but I need few apps that are windows only (main reason I use remote desktop). Other than that, cant play few games on linux, but i dont care about games that much. I was sure Ill have to go back to windows, but never happened
You trust health care professionals because they save your life and help with your health. We would not survive for long if we trust only people who use graphaneOS and linux lol
In my experience PLA just pops off the clean glass when cooled to room temp (holds extremely well if bed is at 45C or more). I have some tips, but only to improve adhesion xD You can maybe try less squish on the first layer (lower flow rate or increase nozzle distance a bit) or just use thin layer of glue. Too low or too high bed temp can ruin bed adhesion, but feels like wrong approach imo, still worth a try
Thank you a lot, Ill try it out