rambos @ rambos @lemm.ee

Posts

32

Comments

863

Joined

2 yr. ago

Yeah. Once you add indexer to prowlar it will be visible in radarr as well (also sonarr, lidarr, etc).

Jelyseerr is amazing GUI that you can use to grab media instead of logging in to radarr or sonarr.

I recommend both!

I dont know where you live but in Croatia (EU) there is a registar "Dont Call" that you can add your number to. They told me that phone service providers are sharing our numbers LOL unless you ask them not to. This registar should be level above providers so your number should be private no matter what. I was just going to apply to that

I use obsidian and synthing and its the best setup I have tried so far, but syncthing doesnt work smoothly on my android phone... Im happy with it, but still looking 😃

Im running it on celeron g3930 and its great. I did remove most extensions (this was the trick I believe) and using MySQL. I have only 2 users tho

Unsure if it's due to not being clean or a levelling issue

It can be both. To exclude bent X axis or bed, I think its best to get nozzle close to the bed, then observe the gap while moving head in XY. Light can help with good angle as well as getting your eye close to the nozzle 👁️

Thats true, but I would also add a manual rocker switch for that case. Better option would be custom electronics (like arduino or simmilar) that trigers without homeassistant, but thats probably too complex for my knowledge...maybe in the future, but first I need to find a working solution

Maybe not the best option, but can you use FileBrowser for that as well?

We have been using one for almost 10 years until recently when we bought automatic espresso machine. Moka is amazing, we still carry it around while traveling

Ah I see what you mean. It would be cheaper if I dont need a 2nd device, but our hood has 3 position switch for different speeds. Its probably still posible to wire it somehow, but I dont know is it worth to mess around with the wiring and avoid warranty while 20€ device can make it more simple

Yeah, I have this one right now

It stopps the smell 90%, so still stinks ater long cooking. I believe it goes trought tiny holes around the hinge. As I mentioned in previous post, I also added filter and still sucks.

Most motorized dampers I found are also spring loaded in closed position, but motors are DC 12V or 5V which seems to be more complex to implement than 220V one from ebay.

Thx

Damper from the link require both channels, one for opening and another one to close it. I could use another single channel shelly for the hood tho.

Ok thank you

Is this not for debian 11?

Thx, the link is working fine now, dont know what happened

Great comments, but Id like to add bit more.

Start with calibration if you havent already:

1. e-steps calibration - do it once after any hardware change
2. Temperature tower - every filament is different
3. Flow tower - do it every time you notice extrusion issues after changing filament
4. First layer calibration (bed leveling and nozzle distance) - you obviously did that, but look if there is any room for improvement
5. Retraction calibration - not relevant for this model, but thats the last part of basic calibration

On top of that, you want to improve 1st layer adhesion to avoid lifting:

1. Use brim
2. Add more squish (reduce nozzle to bed distance)
3. Print first layer slowly
4. Clean your bed and dont touch it with fingers
5. Use round corners when possible
6. Dont use part cooling fan on first layer
7. Leave bed heater on for some time before you start printing (to give enough time for build plate to heat up evenly)
8. Lower bed temp after first layer (example: I print PLA on clean glass at 60C, but after first layer I drop it to 55C)
9. Use mouse ears (basically a fat brim that you place manually on sharp corners)

Use glue or hairspray if nothing else helps, or consider better build plate like PEI or even better quality filament

Thx, the link is broken but I know what you mean. I never thought about that, but I was thinking about filtration system thut mounts under the sink. Would like to avoid aditional container if possible, but I should learn more about water filtration first. I have water filter in coffe machine. Not sure does it soften the water, but it doesnt help much. Is brita better for that purpose or should I use both?

Honestly I think someone else should answer this, but I believe you can just use different IP range (example 192.168.0.x on ISP device and 192.168.1.x on new router). Reading other comment it looks like its not the best idea, but we have that kind of setup in office and it works fine. There is no selfhosting involved tho

Afaik tailscale will work with CGNAT and you can get your own router to sort out DHCP (or just pihole on your server?). Others can probably provide better answer

I would like to know as well. Other user siad

citric acid. 2 tablespoons to a liter of water is a good place to start

This is usefull thank you!