How do i fix this ugly hole in the wall?
If you do end up replacing just a bottom portion, be sure you use some Z-flashing so that rain water can't get behind the seam. As mentioned, use something that won't rot. I also recommend using Hardie Sierra 8 to replace entire sections, I have it on some portions of my house along with T1-11 and they compliment one another as long as they are not side by side.
I bought both Plex and Emby. I started with Plex but had some technical issues related to my machine having multiple IP addresses so I switched to Emby. I tried Jellyfin before switching to Emby but it wasn't as capable as Plex or Emby (at least at the time) and I wanted something with some commercial support behind it. I have been pretty satisfied with Emby, but do wish it would get requested features added in a much more timely manner.
After looking at other's lists I think I am missing a good document server. Emby isn't the best music and photo server so I could look at improving that, but it has been good enough for those purposes that I haven't felt like going to the trouble of installing anything else.
- Aster: Multiseat software for Windows allows several users to work on the same PC.
- LaunchBox: Frontend for DOSBox, modern PC games and emulated console platforms.
- Blue Iris: Video security and webcam software
- Calibre: E-Book management and server
- Emby: Server for videos, music, audio books, and photos.
- Firewalla: VPN server, internet monitor and control
- Foundary Virtual Tabletop: Online role-playing game server.
- Grafana: Dashboard interface
- Hubitat: Home automation
- Hyper-V Manager: Tool that allows users to manage Hyper-V hosts and virtual machines (VMs)
- InfluxDB: Real-time database server.
- IotaWatt: Open WiFi electric power monitor
- Microsoft SQL Server: Database Server
- Octoprint: Web interface for 3D printers.
- PCem: Emulator for various old 8086 through Pentium PCs.
- SmartSync Pro: File sync program
- SnapRaid: Backup program for disk arrays.
- Stablebit DrivePool/Scanner: Disk pooling, file duplication, protection, disk surface scanner, and disk health monitoring
- Steam Link: Access and play steam games remotely
For the exterior of my house I use Sherman Williams Duration. It has held up really well over the last 12 years and I am still able to buy matching paint as I have only been painting walls as needed and I have time. I am only about half done :(
I thought I was the only one thinking that, not even sure why Daneel popped in my head when the question was asked, but it did.
My ad blocker was working so well I didn't even realize I had it installed and blocking ads on YouTube. I don't mind watching a few ads as long as it doesn't get out of hand.
If I had to speculate and GUESS, based on information I know now and if I give the CTO the benefit of the doubt and assume he was competent (contrary to what I saw), I would say they were having trouble canceling the contract with the third party consulting firm we were hired through. I also think they might have been quietly moving their operations out of state to another infrastructure originally belonging to another company they bought or merged with that had their own IT team and wanted us kept out of the loop. Hiring us might have been a way to reduce our compensation and get us under an NDA regarding the move. When hiring us failed they were able to re-negotiate the terms of the contract with the consulting firm for half of what it was. Again, just a guess.
Yes, WHY do I write all my SQL statements In all CAPS and why isn't there a better SQL editor, and why hasn't SQL evolved more than it has?
Plantjam is correct. My electrician installed a main panel on my hardieboard and used 14-Gauge Electro-galvanized Half Slot Channel Struts to mount to. They mounted the struts horizontally through the Hardieboard into the sheathing/studs, caulking the screw penetrations. They then mounted the circuit breaker panel to the struts.You my need to add spacers.
Thanks for the response. The barrier I choose isn't permeable. I live in a moderate climate. We do get the occasional snow which melts within a few days. My house is pretty leaky at the moment, so the walls will be able to dry from the inside. I would like to use mineral wool in some areas (like near my grill) but it isn't available in large sheets in my area and its R value per inch isn't quite as good as the Poly, so I opted to go with Poly in most areas.
Yes, I could place the L flashing behind the furring strips (mentioned in my previous reply), but my hesitation there is I wanted to have a full shield of layered tape and wrap all the way up the wall and I didn't really want to put wrap on top of the insulation because I didn't trust that none of the penetrations I would need to make for the furring strips and siding wouldn't leak. I saw in one video where they were doing 4" of insulation they put the rain barrier 2" back between the two insulation layers. I think this would be a good solution but the install is a bit more complicated when doing multiple layers of insulation. To do this I could have done two 1" layers instead of just 1 2" layer and put the flashing between the two layers.
I still use my DVD/Blu-ray by mail subscription from Netflix. Practically everything was available that way. I will be canceling Netflix for a while after that goes away at the end if the month. I plan to just rotate through which services I subscribe to.
On further research it seems that in this case I could have brought the polystyrene all the way down to the roof deck and flashed it with the shingles (cutting them back 2") to make the front of the polystyrene the rain barrier. Assuming I could do a good enough job to guarantee no water penetrated behind it. This would prevent the need for the 2"x1.5" board all together and the gap all the way to the sheathing which would be a big source for thermal bridging and transfer. Not sure I am confident enough to take this approach though and the flashing has already been installed by the roofer.
So my question remains, how big should the gap be above the shingles.
I have to confirm that mastic plus aluminum tape is the way to go. The mastic will help fill the gap and protect the tape from drying out and peeling away. Be sure to clean it thoroughly so the tape will stick long term. Be generous with the tape as over time it may begin to fail. Mastic is doubly important if you have condensation issues. And if that is the case, or the duct work is in unconditioned space, you should consider insulating and covering the duct work.
My wife and I just had to replace our dishwasher. She did a lot of research and to my surprise ended up going with a high end Samsung. We just got it installed and it washes fine and is super quiet, can hardly tell it is even running. We did get the extended warranty, we have not always had good luck with appliances in the past
Electrically speaking it is in the proper housing, but the box is not secured, so I would ding it for that at the very least. I agree about cutting the conduit back and putting in a proper secure box and then cementing around the box. You could also use a surface mount box. In that case you would cut the existing conduit back, put a 90 degree elbow with a enough conduit to extend past the wall edge. Patch the wall and then install a surface mount box where the wires are connected in.