I really wish I could have. I never buy clothes that I haven't already tried on, but I needed something specific for work, and as you've already guessed, the line of pants I settled on aren't listed at any of their local-to-me retailers.
Though, full transparency, I took it a step further to make things worse by ordering the correct size through Amazon, since they'll come in tomorrow rather than a week from now...
Yeah, I really should've been more adamant about it. I was on my break at work and didn't want to spend the whole time on the phone. I probably could've got a manager to cancel it or something. Probably still can. Oh well.
My thoughts exactly! Like if it were one of a hundred orders sitting in a pallet I'd get it. But I'm just imagining a cartoonish situation where the person on the phone is going, "these pants? This order right here? Ahh, yeah, I am physically incapable of not sending it out, but I can put a return label on it for you!"
Double check the settings in your printer and slicer that "screen brightness", "screen power", "max power" or something to that effect is set to 100%. I've seen some default to 70%-80%, the theoretical reason being that reducing power to the screen can lengthen its lifespan.. however, afaik these claims have not been backed up by data, and the logical counterargument is that any lifespan gains will be offset by the increased length of time the screen is on. Even if you can squeeze a few extra prints out of the screen before it dies, you're making all your prints take way longer than necessary.
For reference, this is the recommended printing settings chart provided by anycubic for their standard gray resin; the recommended exposure time for your printer at default layer height is 2.5 seconds. If you're using 100% power, you're more than doubling the normalexposure.
Woah, don't know if this could be causing your problem, but this seems really high. I used to used a Mono X, highest exposure time would be in the 3s range. Are you maybe printing at reduced brightness?
I'm also confused by what you're trying to do. When you say you found "the step file for a generic filament slicer", what is the model actually of? When you say "combine the two", what do you mean? Are these two parts that fit together that you want to make one model, is it two separate things that you just want attached as one piece, are they two variations of the same thing that you want parts of one on the other, etc...
Couple days late, but I just remembered this post and dug it back up to make a suggestion if you (or anyone else) decide to remix it with the charging slot, to help retain the model's excellent printability.
Cutting a squared notch will create a steep overhang that will be difficult to print. But, if you instead cut a large circular hole through the bottom center, it will create a shallow taper that will be easier to accomplish, it will also cut down on filament usage 😃
astronaut meme>