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Posts
12
Comments
150
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • Home assistant has a voice assistant but it isn't a voice assistant. Also, you are correct it is made to control a smart home (at the moment) that also include music threw external provider (or local files) but you can't search the internet threw it. You can either install it locally or pay for home assistant subscription which include voice assistant threw cloud.

  • I'm not 100% sure but this might also depend which OS you are running on your pi. Did change from SD card to SSD few years back for my home assistant setup (now running with a mini pc) at the time I went for a geekpi adapter (can't recall exact model).

    Try a quick ducduck search "sata adapter #yourOS#" and see if a list come up. Here is one for HA (but surely more models are compatible than the ones listed here) https://community.home-assistant.io/t/working-usb-enclosures-and-adapters-with-hassos/212763

    Edit: as for SSD, I went for Samsung EVO model

    Sidenote: all SSD will be more reliable than a sd card because they are less sensitive to rewrite counts

  • Thanks for the heads-up, haven't tried webrtc. Something still missing for me is person detection, with luck it will be added in future as this has been requested by some user to tplink R&D (at this moment, this feature doesn't comply with onvif standard).

    None the less, they are good and cheap devices.

  • I don't have any but I've seen reolink mentioned a lot, cheaper would be tapo camera (what I have), I know some tapo have baby cry alert but don't know if this function works with hacs component. For Tapo, once setup inside app you can block internet access to the camera threw your router or else. https://github.com/JurajNyiri/HomeAssistant-Tapo-Control

  • I have nvme setup on my pi 4 (I know it's overkill for that purpose but already had pi setup like this prior to klipper), that being said I will definitely look at getting one with communication control even if power never goes down for more than a couple of seconds

  • If you make a search "ender 3 5v pin", you will find plenty of examples on Reddit, octoprint forum and others. Problem was (or is) that printer was still getting power when OFF, it could lead to plenty of issues with worst case scenario where the mainboard died.

  • on your card, click on the three dots. You should have more options there. If it doesn't work, change "intial_hvac_mode" to "cool"

    edit: didn't see your next replied, glad you work it out

  • You definitely needs to calibrate your estep and flow rate as others mentioned. If numbers were correct then you might have a partial clog. If so, clean it and check Luke's hotend fix on thingiverse/printable (really worth it). https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7tCxO17XZtw

    Under extrusion aside, you can get better text details by using a smaller nozzle as one issue for the text clarity is line width, while it isn't ideal you can also try to set 0.30/0.35 line width with 0.4 nozzle.

    Also, if you do plug in usb from your computer to printer (to calibrate estep), make sure to cover the 5v pin on usb cable with electrical tape. Otherwise you might wreck your printer mainboard. https://community.octoprint.org/t/put-tape-on-the-5v-pin-why-and-how/13574

  • Just adding to your comment that if OP goes that route, he will need to cover 5v pin with some electrical tape on usb otherwise he will wreck is printer board. (Unless recent ender 3 have this issue fixed but I doubt)

  • Shouldn't be an issue, power outage here are mostly about one second (5 at max) and even if my printer is being halted, my glass bed stick so much that my print don't pop off by themselves, I always use a scraper even when completely cool down.

  • Actually I could even run Klipper on mini pc but would need a very long usb to reach printer and thought it wasn't ideal. As for the mini pc, I'm running proxmox but I'm far from being an expert so not sure if I can manage CPU scaling.