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Or on the stock market or gambling which this is basically a mix of.

SIGINT is sent when you press Ctrl+C. SIGTERM is sent in just about every other situation - basically when the system wants the program to end. For instance when systemd wants to stop the service or the default signal with programs like kill pkill htop etc. You should catch both of these signals.

That beaker does not look half full to me. Many like 1/3rd full, or at least somewhere between that and half full.

This assumes people are rational and that what they say they are willing to pay matches what they are actually willing to pay. And that is just the people not trying to abuse the system.

So it would be really good for everyone if they were forced to sell Chrome

And who do you think would buy it? Loads of companies will be jumping at the chance not out of the goodness of their hearts but because they can see massive profits if they can control it. Very likely will start to squeeze it for all the profit they can and the enshitification process will begin.

For all the bad the Google has done they have kept chrome relatively free from the enshitification process. Likely as so much of their business would not exist if people didn't have a good browser to access their services on.

should a third-party acquire control over chrome's development, mv3 gets shredded. restrictions and limitations on adblockers get scaled-back or reverted outright.

That is far too optimistic. If the courts force a sale then a for profit company will but it expecting a return on investment. Which very likely means more monetisation efforts like embedding ads or even more tracking built into it. It is a fantasy to think who ever gets it will scale anything you dislike about it back.

Oh, misses that bit... Seems there is a third party plugin that does something similar.

It does exist with docker debug.

Generally speaking you shouldn't be poking around running containers. It is rare that I have ever needed to do that. If you want to inspect the contents of an image then tools like dive are helpful. If the container produces some useful output that you might need then put that into a volume, you can then mount that volume to a debug/inspect container to read the files without messing around with the rest of the container.

Shell-less containers are a great security feature - it is extremely hard to get a reverse shell on something that does not have any shell. And if you must have a shell to debug something docker already has a feature for that docker debug which works for shell-less containers as well.

Any surface that looks/feels flat will be good enough for this use case, no need to find a bit of glass. Most table tops will do. You might need something better for flattening heat sinks, but for 3d prints you don't need to be that accurate. The plastic will deform far more under light pressure then the difference in any relatively flat surface you can find.

If you have one then there is no harm in using it - but also not need to explicitly look for something that flat. Any table will likely be good enough.

It looks like the gap is a whole perimeter missing likely caused by the infill being printed first? Or something else inside stopping it from being flush on the outside. This might not help now (unless you can separate the parts without damaging the outer perimeter) but before gluing it up it would have been best to get some sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the whole top flat until you have one complete outer perimeter. Or cut away the infill so the outer perimeter is the highest point.

If you cannot separate them without damage to the outer perimeters then you have a few options. First you could deform the plastic near then seam to cover it up. This can be done by heating the seam up with a hot air gun or hair dryer and pressing the layers together to close up the gap. You would really want to be gentle with the heat, just enough to let it start plasticity deforming with moderate/light pressure but not enough so it deforms under its own weight. Too much heat will also start to melt the surface edges of the layers rounding them over and making them look shiny which can look very obvious as well. So you really need to take it slow and apply as little heat as you can until it is just soft enough to deform.

The other options are to fill the gap. This can be done with any old filler but requires lots of sanding and painting afterwards. Or you can try to fill it with more plastic. You can use your printer to print small lines to give you something the right shape to fill the gaps, then it is just a matter of gluing or melting it in place. Super glue/CA glue will not be a good option here as it tends to leave white smear on 3d prints if you get any over spill which is very likely with a small gap. There are some glues designed for PLA that don't do this but I have never tried them myself. You could also heat the patch first until it can deform and press it in quickly though this can be tricky to do quickly enough before it cools and may not stick in well. There are also solvents you can get that dissolve the plastic and let it weld together, best way to use that is to dip the patch peace in it and press that into the gap trying to get as little on the print as you can - any spillage will start to dissolve the layer lines smoothing them over and making them look shiny.

Each of these does require some skill to do well and are easy to mess up making the print look worst - so i would try them out on some scraps first. Though you can always opt to use any filler and sand/paint the model after but that requires quite a bit of work to make it look good but is the only real option that you can keep going until it looks good.

I believe it only shows them if you have played on more than one device.

I saw that when playing a game, it counted the time since it was opened while playing. But always saw it correct itself to actual time running withing a few seconds/minutes of closing the game on the deck.

The article calls that out explicitly:

When installing on unsupported hardware, Microsoft will push a small disclaimer that effectively cancels your warranty in case of compatibility-related mishaps. Likewise, you won't be entitled to receiving updates - including security updates - so we're back to square one.

What is the point in upgrading if you wont get security upgrades either way. Just more spyware and ads in the newer version.

That is a lot of contradictory sets of requirements. If it is important to have on the deck then it is going to be trivially searchable online. Something that is niche that others are not really doing is going to be very subjectively interesting or useful. That makes it impossible to recommend anything without violating one of those requirements.

Instead here is some advice for finding project ideas: Look at your own interests/hobbies/things you need to do and start taking note of problems you encounter, grievances or annoyances you have or just things you think could be made/done easier. Out of those you can look at ones that you think a steam deck could help solve and from that you can start to investigate ways to use the steam deck to solve those problems. That is essentially how you find niche and interesting/useful things that are specific to you to work on. It can take time, but the more you think about it and write things down the easier it becomes to find projects to do.

Things that I can just easily stop.

Technically any non-online game will work since you can just put the steam deck to sleep with the tap of the power button when ever you want and resume later on. It takes a couple of seconds to go to sleep and so the only times it is annoying is when you are directly in the middle of some action - which is generally easy to avoid in most games if you know you are coming up to your stop.

Personally I have been playing monster hunter world like this which works quite well - especially since there is quite a bit of less action packed stuff you can do between the main story line.

What is the point in an official upgrade if it is unsupported? Seems like a way to trick people into an upgrade so they can start nagging users to throw away their hardware and get a new computer.

So glad I don't have to worry about this bullshit on my 11+ year old computer that is perfectly fine running Linux without any major issue or lack of support.

Anyway, yeah why would I watch someone else play a game when I can just play it myself?

I think some of it is watching people do things you cannot do. Competitive play, in both sports and gaming, is quite a different thing to watch people with skill vs what you could do yourself. Plus I suspect there is a lot of the psychology that goes with routing for a team and the feeling of being part of something bigger or something.

Personally I don't really get it myself but I can see why people would. IMO it is not much different from why so many people like watching sporting events rather than going out and playing themselves.

For games I haven’t played yet, I would spoiler it for myself. Games I’ve already played… well, don’t need to watch that anymore, right?

That is true for single player games, but not for match making/competitive ones. I suspect that people are more so watching competitive ones than single player story driven games.

I have updated arch systems that had not been powered on for years before. It was fine. No issues what so ever. Arch is not some flaky distro that breaks if you look away for a minute. My main system has had had the same install for over 5 years now and I regularly forget to update it for months at a time. Again, no issues.

To the NZXT community. We've heard your concerns. We are aware of the recent claims made against us and are actively reviewing the situation. Rest assured, we are committed to addressing this thoroughly and will share an official statement soon.

Translation: Fuck! you caught us. We are currently in PR disaster recovery mode and trying to figure out how to spin this to not look like complete scum bags. Rest assured, we are committed to trying to find some escape goat to throw under the bus and minimizing the damage to our reputation.

Or just glue it in... The glue is likely to be stronger then the thin layers of the 3d printed plug so you won't get much from a mechanical interlock. And then there is no pressure or risk of deforming anything.