Great setup! I’ve heard that it is best practice to keep a little distance between servers/drives and the UPS just to be safe from vibrations or EMI. Does anyone know if this is still something to worry about?
Looking at the product page, this appears to be a sensor/indicator you put on a camera/monitor to determine if the shot is level. It probably has a microcontroller doing sensor fusion of gyroscopic/accelerometer sensors to present a smooth result.
Your first layer seems inconsistent. What z sensor are you using? Were these printed in quick succession or did the printer have time to cool?
My thinking is this could be due to thermal drift in your homing sensor. First print will be solid, then subsequent prints will have a warmed up sensor resulting in a different z offset. Try minimizing variables by making your preheating consistent. Or just baby step the z-axis during the print start.
The majority of components you find on the used market are pulled out of working systems and will be just fine for years to come. I only recommend buying those specific items new so you are guaranteed to get all the accessories that come with them.
Great tip! I spent a long time chasing issues with TPU only to realize the spool to extruder section was the culprit. Bypassed the runout sensor and put the spool on bearings to fix the issue.
The heat lamp did help for the couple parts I was having issues with. I now mostly use a mini trident for most of my ABS printing. The heat lamp only comes out when I need to do a large print on the Voron2.
There was a Nero3D (Canuck Creator) video a while back where he said acrylic is better at insulating than ACM so I went from ACM to acrylic. Plus the smoked translucent acrylic looks better. I bought the ACM from PrintedSolid originally and have since reused it for other projects.
I have the nevermore under my Voron2 300 and it still struggles with prints like you posted. Switching from ACM to Plexiglass panels helped improved insulation somewhat. The hack that I use in a pinch for big prints is a terrarium heat lamp with temp control hanging from the top of the printer.
Chamber temps need to be higher for such a long skinny print because it will contract significantly lengthwise. The fun part is that if you get better bed adhesion without higher chamber temps then it could bend the whole bed sheet into a taco temporarily. Try setting your bed at 110C for an hour before printing with the part fan blowing on the center of the bed to help circulate the air.
Great setup! I’ve heard that it is best practice to keep a little distance between servers/drives and the UPS just to be safe from vibrations or EMI. Does anyone know if this is still something to worry about?