Reading the article, reducing the shriller frequencies by 12db is still pretty nice, looks like it's designed for electric blowers which are already way quieter than gasoline powered ones, already generally in the hearing safe range. 2db overall should still be noticeable though, be generally less annoying.
12 dB is a pretty decent reduction if your goal is hearing protection, 100->88 is also bringing it to something that absolutely needs hearing protection to something that's borderline acceptable for an 8 hour shift depending on your local laws, mine say 4 hours but still, way more comfortable to use.
I don't think that's unpopular at all, I only ever used vent in highschool and uni, some of the groups I ran with even went back to vent from TS becauae of the sound quality. It was simple and easy to use and pretty much everyone had it.
I have an nvme enclosure with a 256 gig drive in it, I think I partitioned a quarter of it for ventoy, rest is for regular storage. It's really nice to have if I do family support, have any iso I need and any utility I might need on top of that. Is it overkill for my needs? Yeah, but it's nice to have and I didn't go for anything fancy, just a cheap crucial drive.
I have a half thought that maybe bing works well for technical searches because it's the default search engine for edge and depending on the company, you may or may not be able to use a different browser and I'll be real, I tend to leave my work laptop setting as default as possible unless particularly awful.
I use a version of Hartk's Stealthburner PCB on my voron and cludged an afterburner tool head onto my franken mk3s. They're both breakout PCBs, the stealthburner one to my knowledge is passthrough, afterburner one has a thermistor and led on it for chamber temps and a hotend activity led. Totally optional and what you've done already is probably the more frequent things I'd change anyhow. There are fancier tool head boards, they're effectively their own MCUs afaik that communicate via canbus, with those ones you're running very few wires, something I'm thinking about but haven't done yet
For me, they reduced the amount of wiring I needed to run to the hotend and make it super easy to swap components, as I said, I've damaged things unintentionally before (I'll say ADHD is contributing to that) so it's really handy. Keeps the wiring neater as well, or at least gives you a place to manage them.
I did some braised ones the other week on a whim (some stock, garlic, chili crisp and balsamic, browned them first in a bit of Bacon fat) and damn if it didn't make me reconsider cooked sprouts, I thought I disliked them cooked based on memories being served them as a kid, but I guess I just never had them prepared. Helps that apparently they've been selectively bred to reduce bitterness since the 90s.
Interestingly, bing of all things turns up better results than Google with the same search terms, first 3 blocks are "popular results", first is tutorial sites, second is w3 schools and third takes you to the current docs for functions and operators.
If you ignore those, the fourth result takes you to the current docs for comparison functions and operators. I'd prefer it taking you right to the official docs on the first result, but comparatively acceptable. It was memed to death but I've seriously found it more useful than Google these days, comparable to ddg's results.
Definitely look at it, totally worth doing or pick yourself up one of the tool head pcbs, I can be heavy handed and having to redo wiring bundles every time I want to change something sucks. Molex connector will work really well if you don't go the PCB route.
As for damaging the board just by running it, the btt boards are super resilient, I've totally whoopsied with my octopus pro and shorted a fan header with multimeter and cut a wire I forgot was live on another. I pulled the jumpers on those headers, rest of the board has 0 issue considering the abuse it had thrown at it. I'd be really surprised if slightly dodgy power would damage 2 unrelated boards in a super specific way and damage nothing else.
Wow yeah, that's even more annoying then. Last ditch thing to me would be to check the resistance across th0 and compare to thb, I got ~6.28 kohms on both checking a spare board, just super strange this happened so suddenly.
Any chance there's some mechanical damage to the thermistor? If you've rebuilt the hotend a bunch of times it's really easy to do, I've totally reefed down on a setscrew before and flattened one, could lead to it possibly reporting a wrong value, a crack + high vibrations during printing + thermal cycling could lead to it getting worse over time. Sudden shifts to me would suggest a problem with the thermistor itself, especially given the total overhaul you've done. As crappy as it is too, if I recall electrical components often follow an early failure pattern where they can have a higher failure rate at beginning of life and then drops off, for the price of thermistor cartridges it's not a bad idea to keep some on hand just in case.
To make your life easier, Do you have a molex connector at the hotend? A lot of thermistor cartridges come with short leads and a molex connector, makes swapping them so much easier. If you don't already have some crimpers, Engineer PA-09 is a solid pair that'll do everything from molex to jst.
I bounced around a couple, my goal was to find stuff cheaper than prusament that also produced nice results. i really liked the stuff spool3d in Canada sells but ended up coming across matter3d as spool3d carries some of their products. They're way cheaper than anything I can get on amazon and I found the quality up there.
That's super irritating, sorry you're still dealing with it.
I'm thinking long shot items now;
I realise I've been focusing on the heat itself, but could your extruder be skipping? There's no grinding or dust in the gears? In really bad cases they can chew into the filament itself, I've had it happen moreso after clearing a clog but it still can happen, cleaning it with air and lightly oiling the gear mesh is a decent start.
Don't think it's related but might be worth dropping your klipper configs, specifically around hotend stuff.
Have you tried totally new nozzles? Could have a very slight partial clog remaining that keeps showing up.
Do your part cooling fans blow directly on the block? 4th layer is about when that would kick in for my config with PLA, I have socks on mine and I run stealthburner hotends on both my voron and prusa so they blow below the block, but even then you can notice and definite change in cooling rate of a hot block.
I know I brought up intermittent breaks before, klipper by default looks to do 1s input smoothing on the thermistor to reduce sensor noise which could maybe hide it, but that's unlikely, I've seen it on my printers
this was on the prusa when it was running marlin still, very obvious at this point but it was having clogging and printing issues before it started to trip thermal runaway.
What sort of print speeds are you doing and do you happen to know the material your block is made of? 200 is cold to me for PLA, while I know its smack in the middle of a lot of manufacturers, personally run closer to 215, prusament's profiles are 210 if I recall. Not something that's going to suddenly cause you an issue though, only thought I could have is same temps with higher speeds/feedrates
Might be worth doing a cold pull to thoroughly clean the nozzle which prusa suggests pla works best for, or run cleaning filament through if you have it. i swear it's just hot glue in filament form but man if it doesnt actually clean things up nicely when I use it for material changes.
Other thoughts, is your PID tune not aggressive enough? I've found that klipper will do its best to hit a target temp with minimal overshoot where marlin would run to a temperature, overshoot and then try to maintain it, if you've change anything in your setup at all I'd suggest retuning it with fans running at your regular fan speed, I do 250 at 50% as that's around what I'll use for abs and petg. Filament super dry? While wet filament can cause a bunch of other issues with print quality, I could totally see it contributing to clogging as well.
I compressed some of the 4k rips I did, all my dvd and 1080p blurays, it's the HDR only that's stopped me from some of them as I found I lost it with the settings I was using and I put it on the "list of things I'll come back to later" shelf.
I recall some banding on a few of the dvd rips, probably was a little too aggressive with the settings I used, but they're still definitely watchable
Tomb Mold does a few of the tracks on Ritual FM, I really liked that they got realworld artists to do in universe tracks. All of the stations are solid, love that they implemented radio outside of vehicles as well.
I have LOTR directors cut on my server, haven't bothered reencoding it because I'm not super experienced with keeping hdr 10 going to h265 or equivalent. Return of the king alone is around 130 gigs across two files, jellyfin says its bitrate is about 70 mbps.
Anecdotally, pretty much every time I'm searching for information on reddit a number of comments are redacted or even the op is deleted. The only reason I didn't purge my comments is in case someone might find them helpful.
Reading the article, reducing the shriller frequencies by 12db is still pretty nice, looks like it's designed for electric blowers which are already way quieter than gasoline powered ones, already generally in the hearing safe range. 2db overall should still be noticeable though, be generally less annoying.