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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)MO
Posts
9
Comments
602
Joined
2 yr. ago

  • We are already are, look at season passes, dlc etc, 90+ is the de facto price of a lot of AAA games. They'll claim going even higher is to support developers or whatever when laying people off en masse and posting even larger quarterly results, it's pure avarice.

    They also tend to sell more copies vs decades ago, which is partly why the $70cad game was so normal for so long IMO.

  • Getting washed out HDR on a 4070ti on 570.144 drivers for whatever reason, but gamescope w/ HDR seem to work perfectly with Proton 10 (Both the valve beta and now GE versions, it'd freeze when trying to enable HDR in the past), having HDR at all in games is a huge win so I'll take it.

    Tried GoW Raganarok and Cyberpunk for reference

  • It's a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.

    Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that's a huge tell for a leak.

    Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.

  • For most people though yeah, Debian is rock solid, only went arch on my desktop for nvidia drivers (and HDR), archinstall really simplifies installing it.

    Arch and Debian wikis are both amazing sources of information, highly recommend for any distro.

  • As far as I'm aware, a lot of the core utilities originate back some time ago, stuff like ls, CD, chmod/chown, cat, sed, awk etc.

    Now the question is, is a piece of software that's been maintained or ported since the 70s considered pre 79 software?

  • Dofasco

    Closed up shop

    It may suck ass to work at these days so I hear, but they're far from closing up shop, they were talking about DRI for a long time and have announced building that capacity ~3 Years Ago. They're already well underway to going DRI+EAF, the steel that comes out of that process is apparently extremely clean metallurgically.

    So yes, we already do this investment...

  • You can muffle the beeper pretty effectively with some tape, the old air fryer we had terrified one of the dogs because of the incessant beeping. My coffee scale by default beeps whenever you touch it, thankfully that's 100% mutable.

    I also hate this.

  • Yeah, makes sense based on where the sensor is, my heater didn't have a thermocouple on it so I drilled a hole for a thermistor midplate, it's super slow to respond is the downside but in theory it should be accurate enough.

    I don't have experience with the bambu, in theory everything will experience thermal expansion but for the voron setup, the bimetallic construction is some of the issue, they have different thermal expansion properties so it can cause deflections. Part quality will vary wildly depending on sourcing too, vorons are very diy and open as the draw, but there's just so much variability from sourcing, mods, assembly etc.

  • It looked like you have a textured sheet? 0.2 mm variation over the entire built area isn't huge, might be exaggerating it.

    How much of a heat soak? If you're going to the edge, let that sit for at least an hour, preferably more, look at Ellis' page on thermal expansion, frame will absolutely expand. I use backers on my 2.4, gantry is giant bimetallic strip, backers do seem to help with that. Klipper does have the ability to correct for this as well, in that link. I do also have a kinematic bed mount (it's coupled loosely to the frame, basically gives the bed room to expand), which again does seem to help, but I'd personally say heat soak is the first thing to do to achieve consistency.

    And to echo others, degrease your bed with dish soap & water (unless your surface can be damaged, Buildtak that's a no, don't of that for example). If that's a textured sheet, may need to give a bit more of a squish, but get it good and clean first. Ellis has some solid 1st layer calibration and troubleshooting guides to go through. For pei, personally I've found I needed to rough up the surface a bit with a brass brush, I don't love pei on my voron, usually use buildtak but have had really good results with the fire resistant version of garolite.

    Edit: read up on your probe, eddy current based? Sounds really interesting, my first point is probably moot, though possible you could be picking up the texture or if you have strong magnets it could affect it (my bed has an array of strong round magnets, seen others that are just a magnetic sheet), the do call that out in their FAQ.

  • One part of me hopes the Reform and PCs split again after this, but realistically idk that's happening. Leslyn Lewis will totally run again, if they're doubling down on those ideas might be they select her.

  • I was looking through, generally custom macros are in the config folder, unsure if they've implemented it differently, here's the Raise3D repo I found earlier, klipper has some code in c for the microcontroller stuff AFAIK with klippy in python, I've not personally dove into the code, just config and macro stuff largely.

    Actually digging through a bit, there's some gcodes in /klippy/gcode.py in the above repo I don't see in the Mainline Klipper equivalent, like M9999, it might be a start, klippy lives on the host machine.

  • Yeah, didn't think it was an image, just images in gcode are encoded.

    I did find their github with a klipper config, but yeah, unsurprisingly it's not there. You could see if it has documentation through the klipper console? I'm betting it's not going to be in your klipper config unfortunately. Definitely leaning toward it being the portion that has the firmware validate the key and then set things up.

  • From the arch wiki

     
        
    sudo -e {file}
      
      

    Set SUDO_EDITOR in your profile to the editor of your choice, benefit is it retains your user profile for that editor, it's also less to type. For stuff like editing sudoers you're supposed to use visudo to edit that. Others can probably give better/more thorough reasons to consider it.