morbidcactus @ morbidcactus @lemmy.ca

Posts

9

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603

Joined

2 yr. ago

Formatting of the number changes the way people interpret it. Which looks larger from a quick glance 1k or 1,000? You're 1h% correct, it's totally needless, makes it less clear and honestly was probably done intentionally.

Oh that's annoying, that looks like a din connector so no guarantee that a similar rated supply would have the same pinout, did find this Teardown of one but nothing about the supply from a quick glance unfortunately, I'd totally consider going at it with a multimeter and seeing if you can figure it out that way, looks like it should only have 24v and ground pins to worry about.

Steam has the ability to create dynamic collections which is great for larger libraries

Kinda seems like a similar idea to the solar heating that Drake Landing in Okotoks Alberta has. Had a heat xfer prof in uni who was really passionate about that project in particular, and this was back in 2007, really don't know why solar district heating like this doesn't really seem to have caught on, afaik it works well.

Edit. I'm ootl, apparently that got decommissioned recently which sucks, was a really interesting idea, guess I have my answer as to why they didn't catch on! It lasted far beyond the 4 year test period and supplied a large amount of the community's heating needs, it's cold in the winter in Okotoks so that's even more impressive to me.

Depends on the printer, the large Vorons use high wattage ac heaters and are self enclosed, I have fans on mine that force air under the bed, can easily push into the 60s in the summer. My prusa in its enclosure maybe does mid-high 40s, but I have no issues with warping, did all my original voron prints on it and still use it for smaller/quick prints, good adhesion helps a lot, for small stuff I don't always preheat for abs. I pretty much run Buildtak surfaces on my printers, it's replaceable if it's damaged + adheres extremely well so I can get away with being a bit more carefree.

Haven't personally needed additional heating other than maybe a space heater in the garage to stop things from kicking out on a low temp when not in use, did consider modding one into the enclosure but I'm personally thinking about going for insulation first.

I'd be cautious about a long term extension cord outside, I'm not an Electrician or an EE so I won't give you advice on that, be nervous I'd clip it mowing the lawn at the minimum, mains spooks me so I give it an overabundance of caution.

Enclosures are a must IMO, but I do print mostly abs and nylon. I have mine in the garage in a separate airspace with recirc filters like the Nevermore, have the large stealthmax on my voron, I don't stay in the room when I print, but it definitely reduces the residuals.

If you have to print inside, vent outside, benefit of using an enclosure is that you can set this up pretty easily. Venting the entire room outside is also a good option. I do not recommend using anything but the "safer" filaments until you're certain the airspace is separate from your home, I'm on the cautious side.

All filaments produce fumes, you still don't want to be breathing pla or petg fumes on the regular, I don't mess with resin, you want VOC cartridges and a respirator for those AFAIK, I have some from previous jobs and they're pretty affordable but it sucks to work with those on in the summer (and I'd need to shave...). There's variation between manufactures of the same type of plastic, I've got some abs that has minimal to no scent, have another I've used that stinks.

It's a learning experience. Is your nozzle torqued to spec? Only time I've seen something like this is when the heatbreak/nozzle weren't set correctly on a v6 hotend, and even then it just oozed down, didn't consume the entire heatsink. I kept that in my box of learning lol, swapped everything to hotends that are secured so they don't spin freely after that, was petg so it degraded in the heat and was such a pain in the ass to remove from set screws, was ok writing it off.

Bed adhesion is often caused by surface cleanliness in my experience, some setting will influence it but you're going to chase problems if your surface has residual oils, some surfaces are more sensitive to it but even the oils in your fingerprints can cause a loss of adhesion. Light dish soap and water is the general recommendation for a degreaser but be aware that this will damage some surfaces, I've got some that explicitly want only 99% IPA and another that only wants a clean microfibre cloth.

Drafts can cause an issue too, seen some abs fail becauae I didn't have the enclosure latched properly and the doors worked their way open with vibrations from printing, I keep mine in my garage and live in Canada, enclosures are a must for me.

It's night and day different isn't it? That 90hz display makes a larger difference than I expected as well, my partner's oled deck is way smoother looking on top of having nicer looking visuals (I'm a sucker for HDR). LCD is still an incredible device, especially if you get it at a discount like I did mine ($475 CAD all in is amazing value), but if you can afford an oled one, it's totally worth it.

They have oled refurbs now, which I'd totally do having had mine apart to do a clicky button mod, it's really easy to get into and easy to service.

The thrash/trad vest I have I made myself (from someone else's pattern though), diy is always good. Plus you can customise it, I did some flannel lining in places. Thrift or upcycle works just as well.

Bonus points for hand painted patches too, that's beyond my ability but it's def a thing, I just messed around with different stitching, a lot are hand sewn with stuff that's like thick dental floss becauae I like the look, looks a lot better on my black/death vest though, studs/spikes aren't my preference so I don't have those.

There's a bunch of different looks, different groups have their own style, depends on what you want to do, could go as far as some crust/patch pants or stick with the classic blue denim and band shirt look, shit I've seen flannel or military jackets turned into battle vests, just make it your own. I've always worn work boots to shows, that's just what I have.

TL:DR, to me, diy is the point and historically a big part of the culture, do what you think looks cool.

Oled is noticeable larger, on paper it's only 0.4"diagonally but it's obvious having my lcd deck beside my partner's oled one, plus the oled one just looks a lot nicer. I've had more issues personally with some games not letting me scale down the ui, rimworld is totally playable on the deck but I find the interface gets in the way.

Steam deck xl could be an idea but you'd probably have some weight/ergonomics issues. Deck itself already dwarfs my switch lite (and is more comfortable to use...), do find I prefer some games on a larger screen, but it does usually work well at the distances I hold it.

Afaik Pornhub is based in Québec, which has data privacy/protection laws through law 25 (French, will need to translate it). I've had some experience with it on some projects in the last few years, would not surprise me if that was contributing to the decision as well. I'm assuming they would still need to adhere to law 25 and whatever local laws in locations they operate in, could totally be wrong there.

I'm pleasantly surprised with how well Grim Dawn and Rimworld play on the deck, tweaked both a bit for personal preferences but actually solid experience. I did cities skylines and ksp on the og steam controller, I can't get into trackpad as trackball though on the steamdeck for whatever reason, did that with the steam controller for warframe, was great to be able to turn quickly on a controller.

No trackpad really would be a non starter to me, just adds so much flexibility, and the haptics do totally work for me.

Another crab's treasure was fantastic, been loving Nine Sols as well and it might be my favourite game visually, lots of hand drawn stuff and it blends Cyberpunk with Eastern mythology (devs describe as "taopunk")

I've got a 4070ti running most recent nvidia-open on arch and haven't had that happen, but I don't tend to run with vsync often.

What proton version are you running this on? Had some weird almost microstutters in cutscenes playing DA:Veilguard through moonlight on my steamdeck. Swapping to experimental resolved that, think it was one version of proton-ge that I had the issue with.

Do you have vrr enabled by any chance?

Are you running through gamescope? Have had grief with gamescope and nvidia, but that was mostly with hdr.

Ended up dropping for good toward the end of beyond light, my partner and I primarily pvped (just for fun, wasn't super into ranked honestly) and was feeling really stale, was getting tired of only control (easily my least favourite gamemode) for 6s and only elim or showdown for 3s got dry, missed a variety of game modes (and personally liked 4s). It sucked because destiny had really fun PvP and amazing guns, hand cannons will be the iconic weapons to me, rolled with a chaperone/hc combo or hc/fusion rifle since house of wolves, they got bows right too, the lemonarque was fantastic.

Are you planning to regularly print large items? Around that price range could get you a formbot v0.2 kit with printed parts. It's core xy and open source if that matters to you. Print size is 120x120x120 which is small for sure, but in my experience, most of the stuff I print falls in that range (I have a 350mm v2.4 and a mk3s I've rarely filled the build plate on either, I'd love a few small printers for quick test prints). It's also enclosed, can put a Nevermore Micro in it for fumes, and it's designed to be able to print abs. Supposed to be able to print all the parts for larger vorons on it too if you ever do wish to go larger.

My first printer was a MendelMax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately due to a move and not wanting to ship a glass bed cross country. I personally like a kit for a first build, while I get that people don't vibe with tinkering or maintenance, you'll learn a lot and you can tweak it to your liking.

You could source from a Canadian vendor (assuming you're Canadian based on your instance), I've sourced a lot from Spool3D in Calgary but will cost you more than the formbot kit. Definitely recommend them for future needs. 3D labtech carries a lot of mods, had great experiences with both of them.

Years of holiday retail soured me to it honestly, brings out the best in people...

I do mostly emulate, but I do have a retrotink 5x pro that I run my older consoles through (with a CRT filter and sometimes hdr, works pretty well with component inputs), sometimes I just like using original hardware. It's mostly nostalgia, they're all my childhood consoles, but it's an experience if you will, like how I do most of my music listening digitally but also enjoy the same album on vinyl or cassette.

Side on the batteries, I just did a bunch of battery swaps for my partner's gameboy Pokémon games as part of a gift for her, totally shocked that the original ones (red, blue, yellow) still had enough juice to keep their saves alive, had to solder a temp battery to a test pad.

It's literally a thing afaik it's because you feel like you need to be "on', extremely draining, I sparingly have mine on for that reason. Text and voice have always been good for me, I honestly don't see the benefit to having cameras too, I'm paying attention to what we're discussing, not you.

The future to CEOs is next quarter, next fiscal year is the distant future.