Freeman @ freeman @lemmy.pub

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28

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387

Joined

2 yr. ago

Yeah I live in florida. Its just not feasible, this time of year we get thunderstorms daily after 2pm.

I put UPS systems on the expensive stuff and just let it ride.

Its happened before too. So not my first rodeo. When my daughter was born lightning hit my actual house directly, like melted my grounding rods hit, piuctures fell off the wall and shit. My iphone at the time wasnt even plugged in, just sitting ont he table but it blew out the wifi and bluetooth chips... I probably lost more in that one. Homeowners covered the loss there though. The insurance situation in Florida is in need of some government regulation to step the fuck in these days. I have to keep my deductible at like 10k now just to have coverage.

Thats what I am saying though. If you dont have an FPS counter up, the way this game runs at 27-35 is still smoother than 60-75 on other titles (ie: RDR2).

I mean, you do you, but the raw FPS numbers arent necessarily accurate depictions of how the game runs. Its like they fuck with frametimes and the like. Which makes sense considering if you unlocked or removed vsync from old titles physics would get wacky, lock pick minigames were super fast etc etc.

That said, i have noticed with a number of Bethesda releases that certain aspects run smoother on a controller. Fallout4/3/NV i was able to brute force performance to run fine on KB+M in 90% of areas. It would still get choppy downtown etc. It was when 76 came out that I tried playing just on a controller. Something about the stick acceleration when moving the camera was much smoother, it made the overall experience better. The same applies here. As soon as I just moved to a controller, its really pretty enjoyable. It doesnt seem to be a "fast twitch" style game like say....CS:GO, Battlefield etc are.

Though I would totally understand if some folks arent going to make such concessions. Just seems to me Bethesda is one of those studios that really only playtests/develops for controller based play despite "supporting" alternative inputs.

FWIW I already have a controller for other games (like Elite: Dangerous or other flight games). So its no biggie for me to change up.

Yeah so on the 4th of July lightning hit the utility pole about 2 doors down, sent a voltage surge throughout the house ( and a few of my neighbors.)

This blew out a number of devices fully (IE: Router, Switch, rokus' etc), others it caused partial issues. For example My modem would boot but it blew out the DOCSIS module so it couldnt connect. My TV works, but thinks 3 HDMI devices are plugged in that arent and now tosses me warnings its running hot at 90C. The PS4 had the USB interface, wifi and HDD blow out only and the HDMI port seems to work on some TV' s (IE: the one it was connected to, but not the Samsung Plasma TV in our living room). So I was able to restore that from backup, but cant connect it to the internet now and cant connect more devices...I even had ome cables went out as well. The DP to HDMI cable from my RTX3060 to my TV went out, a couple HDMI cables also are now bad etc.

That said, no my computer wasnt plugged in. I actually play on a laptop these days when i upgraded off my i7-4790/1070 build. So i use an eGPU when im at home. This had the 3060. It either took the voltage through the UPS, or more likely through that DP cable connected from the TV (which wasnt on UPS power). Either way, after the storm the 3060 would only spin fans at 100% and would not be recognized, either in the eGPU or in my old desktop that was in the attic now. I popped that old 1070 into the eGPU it ran fine. So the eGPU, its boards, and the PSU in it were fine but the 3060 are effectively dead.

That said, the UPS's I use are just line interactive ones you get at Best Buy, not expensive double conversion. The difference is that with line interactive there is a relay switch, and when it detects voltage changes it will switch from power off the AC/wall to battery (in under a second). Thats typically fast enough that capacitors can still deliver power to their devices. But a VERY fast voltage change (ie: from a lightning strike) can get passed through.

Schneider Electric/APC does have a warranty on their devices and those connected to it. So i did open a case with them. its still ongoing. I am not sure if they will honor it. They probably should but who knows. They did have me send the UPS devices back to them (and sent me new ones to swap out, which was nice). Whether they replace the stuff blown out...i dont know. It was pretty expensive, but not enough to hit my Insurance deductable, which I have to keep really high to get any coverage these days in Florida.

That put me in a weird spot for this game release. I waited a while for APC to get back (its still in limbo) but finally just replaced the GPU. So i have played this game on the same laptop, but with 3 GPU's now. The 1650ti Max-Q that is onboard the laptop (it only has 4GB of vram). The Strix 1070 8GB that is basically my old card but was used as my main for a couple months. And the 4060ti 16GB that i just got a few days after release.

What do you play on. The reality it’s pretty serviceable and it is one of those games where FPS != performance or experience.

I’ve played most of the game at 27-35 fps. It’s been mostly fine as long as I’m not obsessing about the fps counter. I frankly just turn it off unless something bad starts happening.

I’ve even figured out ways to get it mostly at 30fps on a pretty low power card.

Ive played the game with the same CPU across three different nvidia cards. My CPU is rarely above 50%....My GPU is constantly pegged, my best GPU (a new 4060ti 16GB) and most recent is pegged at usage and at its top clock speed but not pulling full wattage, which is quite odd. On day 1 i was using a Strix 1070 8GB and it was.....rough. In fact the dgpu on the laptop, a 1650ti-maxq largely outperformed it mainly because it can do VRS.

The CPU, for reference is an i7-1165g7 capped at 35 watts. It generally runs at 4.1 Ghz @ 60-65 C. So its not a primo CPU compared to a desktop by any means, even for the 11th gen series.

I would agree. They should acknowlege its not well optimized and are working on fixing it, especially with Nvidia cards. It rubs me wrong that they are in denial here, especially given their rocky release history.

Heck that think that 50% of the reason they didnt want even co-op or any netcode. FO76 was a nightmare on relase largely because of that.

With the DLSS-FG mod and the settings outlined here I am getting 65-90 with the "Quality" settings on the 4060ti. Without the DLSS-FG mod and those exact same settings, i will get 24-40ish. 24-30 in places like New Atlantis, 40 ish in places like caves and such.

For the my 1070 (TL:DR my house was hit by lightning, which took out my 3060 12 GB and I had to use a backup) and my 1650ti-max-q i basically need to turn the settings preset to low, then turn the indirect shadows to medium (there seems to be a bug with textures being really blurry if low), and then set FSR scaling back up to 100 manually. With that, i will get about 30-35 FPS. These are on the lower end of the hardware requirements. The 4060TI finally came in around the 5th, and its been quite a nice improvement, but its a shame this game needs mods to play at 60 FPS at all.

That said the game plays alright at 30 FPS. especially if you opt to use a controller and some slight motion blur. If you try a KB+M at 30FPS, its pretty rough since the camera movements are much more precise and responsive. I learned with Fallout76 that Bethesda really only seems to develop and playtest with a controller, and thus, trying to force using a KB+M can work, but can be buggy. I dont really mind outputting to my TV and playing on the couch though. Its a nice relaxing experience vs sitting in an office chair.

I really only play on 1080p. Without a DLSS mod even with a 4060ti i only get about 30 FPS using optimized settings in the larger cities.

I imagine its only worse at larger resolutions. their FSR implementation is definately a core cause of the issue, especially for Nvidia cards.

For me, this was because the PS4 uses USB 2.0 that caps out at 480 Mbps. It was basically doing checksums of the backup files vs the restored and it just took time, even when the backups I had it running on were a sata SSD.

The game, without using dlss mods, runs at 30fps with some stutters on my system using the optimized settings from hardware unboxed (linked) on a 4060ti. If I install the DLSS-FG mods I immediately get 60-90 fps in all areas, that alone should tell you everything you need to know..

Heres the rub, Im not a FPS whore. Its generally a good experience for this game at 30 FPS assuming you use a gamepad/xbox controller. KB+M it gets really jittery and theres input lag. The game was clearly playtested only using a gamepad. The reactivity of a mouse for looking is much different and the lower FPS the game is optimized for becomes harder to digest.

I have also tested on my 1650ti max-q, and a 1070. Both the 4060ti and 1070 were on an egpu.

My system has an 11th gen i7-1165g7 and 16 gb ddr4 ram. I play at 1080P in all cases.

For the 1650ti and the 1070 the game runs fine IF I do the following

• i set the preset to Low (expected) and THEN turn scaling back up to maximum/100% and/or disable FSR entirely
• set indirect shadows to something above medium (which allows the textures to run normally, otherwise they are blurry).

Even on the 4060ti, it saying its using 100% of the GPU but it is only pulling like 75-100 W, when it would normally pull 150-200W under load easy.

TL:DR - this game isnt optimized, at least for NVIDIA cards. They should acknowledge that.

Would agree. Especially re:Nintendo.

One of my biggest annoyance is when you have multiple switches on a family account. If you use cartridges local co-op (or whatever it is called) requires two copies of the game (a cartridge in each). If you have the downloaded versions/digital download, then any device on the Nintendo account (ie: 2 switches for kids on a family account) can play against each other locally.

I don’t think you can cache/save a cartridge to a device to be able to do their local play feature (ie via ad-hoc connections in a car)

I have backups of my games on a PS4, which is air gapped (because the USB interface took a shot of lighning and no longer works).

I have been able to restore them and play games/saves on this console.

Here: https://www.playstation.com/en-us/support/hardware/ps4-back-up-and-restore-with-external-storage/

FTA:

PS4 console data you can back up Backing up your data regularly is a great way to ensure that important data is saved. You can back up the following types of data saved to a USB drive.

• Games and apps
• Saved data
• Screenshots and video clips
• Settings

All user data saved on your PS4 console (excluding trophies) is included in the backup data. When you restore your backup data, your PS4 console is reset, and all data saved on your console is erased. If you want to return data without restoring your console, use USB extended storage or cloud storage.

I have backups of my PS4, with games downloaded from the PS store that say different.

Heck any Playstation disc games tries multiple times to get you to save it to the HDD.

Not to mention that as long as it’s a digital download, you don’t own the game - you lease it at a flat rate.

not true all the time. Plenty of games once you have the files are easily able to run. KSP is one such example. I can just copy the KSP folder to any computer and play the game.

Its the devs choice to require things like Steam to validate the game etc.

You download them and back them up. What happens if the disc is scratched or your buddy drops a blunt on it?

I do similar. For laptops and docks, especially if they change setups it can be a pita (though you just need to copy files around).

Also the DE monitor config (ie that you use to login) is logically different to a users x config. So you gotta copy that over to make sure the primary monitor etc is right.

Some amazon returns require an explanation while others dont. My guess, they took the default or went through the drop down to one that didnt require any actual reasoning.

It is for this reason I have stopped buying some things like Hard Drives (almost always get sold as new but are refurbs or used), or computers. Even when labeled as used amazon allows certain things, like glittery dbrand skins to still quality as "pristine". Also there is a new thing where they will come wiped, but had been registered in Azure/Intune/Apple MDM and thus will still be locked or reporting in.

NGL it totally depends. For general news/politics etc yeah.

Some of the more niche subreddits....Its definately much less of that and some of the folks that have been around, arent using default subs. My "home page" looks severely different from the default.

There’s definately less destruction on the maps. The super hero thing negates classes entirely. The fact that you can’t (or could t at launch) run squads or have comms in the game was crazy.

Basically all the mechanics that reinforced any semblance of team play were removed.

You can buy a MacBook and have it preregistered with your apple business account. From there the first run will auto add it to jamf and apply policies.