ffhein @ fhein @lemmy.world

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311

Joined

2 yr. ago

My wife is obsessed with this game, and she normally hates zombies. Personally I can play it for a couple of hours, but I think the early game is the most fun and I tend to lose interest. Looking forward to when they'll flesh out late game and add stories/missions or whatever they were going to call it.

Add:north has a recycling program for PLA, but there's a minimum of 5kg material + 5 filament spools. They also only accept their own PLA and there's a large warning on the site that you can sabotage the recycling process if you mix in material from other manufacturers, since they will likely have different additives.

There's also some more generic info which implies that you shouldn't put PLA in the general plastics recycling (at least not in Sweden) since they can't take care of it, and that PLA can contaminate other polymers that the recycling plant could otherwise handle.

Thanks, though it seems like the list contains corded tools and none of the models I've been considering. It also looks like the sheet only lists sound power level, i.e. something like overall loudness. While lower sound in general is of course good, what I'm trying to find is a drill driver that doesn't have as high pitched sound as most 18V tools do. For example both DCD791 and DDF484 have a listed SPL of 76 dBA, but I found the noise from the DDF484 to be more annoying due to it having higher frequency.

Unfortunately (?) I live en Europe so no Lowe's here.. The only store that sell Milwaukee here is almost an hour's drive away, and it's a pro store so their opening hours is something like 7:30 - 16:30 Monday to Friday. Once I took a half day off to go there, but Milwaukee was the only brand I couldn't test because they didn't have any batteries available :/

If you haven't, try removing the G29 J command from the slicer start code. I've seen a few cases where it made things worse. Personally I don't use it because my printer keeps levelling for a couple of months, at least after I replaced the soft bed springs with silicone dampers. If more time has passed I just redo the entire bed mesh.

It's just random work in and around the house. Some times I needed a more powerful drill driver was when laying bamboo flooring (had to be screwed down) and replacing bargeboards. Projects planned for the future include removing an exterior door and rebuilding the wall, and at some point to build a new kitchen. Occasionally I have some hobby project that requires lighter drilling, e.g. building subwoofers or keyboards, or simple stuff around the house like hanging stuff on the walls or ceiling. We live in a wooden house nowadays so no concrete drilling.

I use ear protection for bigger projects, but if I didn't have to if I'm just going to do something quick, like installing blinders in a window or hanging a painting. My first drill, a massive corded Bosch, had much less of an ear-piercing sound that the Ryobi that I have now.

Because other languages available at that time lacked certain programming conveniences found in bash :) Despite its shortcomings, it's still a very convenient language for running other programs, working with files, and piping output from one program to another, or to a file. Bash was first released in 1989, and I don't know exactly when it passed the threshold for widespread adoption, but I can't think of anything that would've been a better alternative.

I think OP is also asking "why aren't people switching to something else now" which is a completely different question.

Metabo HPT is called Hikoki outside of USA afaik. Only seen them at hardware stores but I remember the DV18DD being remarkably quiet for an 18V brushless drill driver, even compared to the competitors' smaller models. In what way do they suck? At least here they are in the same price range as Makita and Dewalt.

I compromised and went with a split ortho keyboard at home, since ergo (column stagger) makes WASD gaming tricky. I've wanted to print a split ergo board for the work computer but I haven't got around to it. Never felt the need to have multiple keyboards for the same computer though, unless you count the macro pad I built, since the tented Nyquist is good enough for both typing and gaming.

When you run the "G29 J" command, you see it take 3 measurements at different points, right? This ought to mean that it does the tilt correction, so it's probably unified ABL.

but I don’t know what it actually improves

Depends on what you're upgrading from.

I don't have this extruder, I've heard it's ok but I can't vouch for it personally. However I can tell you how it differes from a stock Ender 3/pro/v2 if that's what you're coming form. To avoid confusion it might be worth mentioning that the word "extruder" is a bit ambiguous in 3d printing, but when talking about printer hardware most people use it to only mean the motor and drive gears for the filament.

The stock Ender 3, and many other printers, have bowden drive which means that the extruder is mounted on the printer's frame, and the extruder pushes the filament into a tube leading to the hotend. This kit changes the printer to direct drive, where the extruder is mounted right on top of the hotend. This can reduce print artifacts since it shortens the filament path, but printer firmwares also have features to compensate for this (pressure advance in Klipper and linear advance in Marlin IIRC). The disadvantage with direct drive is that it adds weight to the toolhead, which can cause ringing (a.k.a ghosting) artifacts at higher print speeds. However the Sprite has a geared extruder so it uses a smaller and lighter stepper motor so I don't think that's anything to worry about. Klipper firmware can compensate for toolhead weight (resonance compensation) but I don't know if Marlin has got that yet. Either way, having a direct drive extruder will allow you to print flexible filaments.

Speaking of geared extruders.. When melting filament and pushing it through the nozzle, the amount of force needed is going to increase the faster you try to do it. When the required force exceeds what your printer can deliver then it's going to start underextruding. If you have this issue you can see that printed lines will look thin in the middle, and thicker where the nozzle changes direction and the printer moves more slowly. This problem can be fixed by printing slower if you don't want to upgrade the printer. An extruder with a gear ratio will be stronger, so it can be more consistent with the amount of extruded filament.

The stock Ender 3 etc. have a hotend where the bowden tube, which is made of PTFE a.k.a. teflon, goes all the way down to the melt zone. This slightly reduces the risk of clogs, but it also means that you never should print above 220C because the teflon degrades at higher temps and begins to release toxic gases. This kit appears to have an all metal hotend, so the PTFE tube is kept away from the hot parts of the hotend, which is why the product description says you can print up to 300C.

As for this particular hotend/extruder kit, I think the main advantage is that it's a very easy and convenient upgrade. I think the quality is ok, but if you like the idea of modding there are plenty of other options. If you buy parts (hotend, extruder, fan, light weight stepper motor) from well respected manufacturers and print the carriage and fan duct yourself I think it's possible to get a solution that is better in every way (lighter, stronger extruder, more efficient hotend, more cooling) for about the same amount of money. However I don't think you'll really notice much difference compared to this kit, and I don't think it's worth it unless you really enjoy the modding process. If you buy a Bondtech high flow nozzle you'll probably get really good performance from the Sprite.

What kind of ABL is your Marlin compiled with? If it is bilinear, which is very common, G29 J does the following:

Jettison the leveling data stored in SRAM and turn off leveling compensation. Data in EEPROM is not affected.

I saw now that you said those lines didn't work, so I guess maybe you don't have Marlin compiled with "unified" ABL? The Marlin docs have different paged for the G29 command depending on the compile option.

No personal experience with SLA printing, but this list of 3d printers might be useful for comparing options. Maintained by people on the 3D Printing discord.

I'm so happy that my coworkers have been very tolerant towards my Kinesis Advantage 2 with browns. Though I start a new job in a few months so there's a risk that they won't like it at the new office.. Now that I think about it, I'm not even sure my current employer will let me keep the keyboard despite it being bought specifically for me when I got a medical issue with my hand. They might claim it back just to have it sit collecting dust in storage out of spite.

Previously I've worked with a guy who had a keyboard with MX blues at the office but luckily I didn't sit in the same room as him. No idea how people around him put up with that.

You could hire a summer intern for €10/hour to build the keyboards for you :D Not sure if that's a widespread practice, but I think the companies here can get some kind of tax benefit if they provide summer jobs for teenagers.

Add digital identification and payment to that list. As society is going cash-less we've got to depend on privately owned proprietary software to do shopping, banking, taxes, to use public transport, and to access healthcare. There are a few different companies providing digital IDs here, but none of them have a client that runs on Linux. Their mobile apps require either an iPhone or Android with Google Play Services.

I like silent reds too, and my wife thinks they're much more tolerable than the regular reds I had before. Though if you're buying keyboards for others, would it be possible to allow them to choose something for themselves? Not all people like linears, and many of my coworkers actually prefer laptop style scissor switches to "normal" mechanical ones.

My manager once suggested the company could sponsor a keyboard building workshop. She asked me to put together different kits that people could choose from, and then we'd build them together. They would pay for all hardware and provide tools but not pay for the time so we'd do it outside office hours. Then she quit and nothing more came of that.. I don't know the details of your situation but maybe that could be an option if you would like to go the DIY route? It could even double as a team building activity :)

Last time I checked (which admittedly was over a year ago) people were saying that Creality sourced their PEI sheets from a reputable company (which name has also slipped from my mind) so they should be good quality. On the other hand, I believe Creality used to put genuine Meanwell PSUs in their printers a long time ago, and they changed to cheap unbranded ones to save money later.

Some thoughts though.. The print surface is thin and flexible, so if it dips like that I think it's more likely the carriage under the bed that is bent. I.e. replacing the print surface might not fix it. A glass bed might be able to even it out, assuming you don't clamp it down too hard, since glass is also a little bit flexible. If you want smooth glass, it's usually cheaper to get a mirror cut to size than buying a printer bed. The reason for using a mirror instead of regular glass is that mirrors have to be very flat in order to not distort the image, while window panes can be a little uneven without anyone noticing.

Personally I'm not a huge fan of glass, but here are some pros and cons so you can decide for yourself:

Pros - Can compensate for a bent bed carriage. Cheap (especially if you get a mirror). Quite durable, lasts a long time. Withstands chemicals, for example if you need to remove ABS residue using acetone. Cons - Heavy, which will limit the maximum acceleration you can use before getting print artifacts. Not the best adheision so you might need to use glue or something to improve it. Unlike PEI/steel beds you can't bend the sheet to pop the model off, so you have to wait for it to fully cool down before you can remove the print (can take around 30 minutes)

But with all that said, you have a probe so it ought to be able to compensate for that dip in the bed easily. Maybe increase the number of measure points if it's causing problems?

The third photo is the bottom, right? It sounds like you've made the correct conclusion, that you need to calibrate the nozzle-bed distance better. Especially the dark filament looks like it was printed while the nozzle was too far from the bed. However I don't know how you adjust this distance on your printer. On a normal printer with a single nozzle and no probe you would do this by levelling the bed at a different height. On a printer with probe you adjust the "probe z offset" setting in firmware. But since you have dual nozzles there's probably some kind of calibration/levelling procedure specific to your printer that you need to follow. The transparent filament looks like it was printed at a better distance.

I would suggest that you try to improve the first layer before tackling the issues higher up.

Personally I don't like companies tracking what I do constantly. If I had the possibility, I wouldn't allow my credit card issuer to profile me based on my purchases. I'm using "deGoogled" Android to limit Google's ability to monitor what I do on my phone, and I use both ad block and privacy badger in my web browser. I'm not saying what Fedora/Red Hat is considering is the same as what Google, Facebook, etc are doing, but in general, I'm against being tracked and monitored.

Now one might argue that software telemetry is much more benign, that they're only collecting data about their software and not about me. The thing is that I don't trust businesses to actually care about me, the end user, and I assume they're going to fuck me over the second it becomes the more profitable option for them. I could spend time and energy to read up on what data they collect from my computer, but that sounds kinda tedious and boring so it's not like I want to. And even if they completely anonymize the data now, I'm not confident that I would notice if they changed their ToS to allow them to collect more data and sell it to third parties at some point in the future. It's just so much more convenient for me if there is no telemetry to begin with.

But I can definitely see why company collecting data would prefer opt-out.

Not just talk about implementing it, but also making it opt-out (i.e. enabled by default). If I understood it right, the author of the proposal even writes that that opt-in is useless, because nobody is going to enable it, which kinda makes it sound like they know that they're trying to push something on users that they don't want.