ffhein @ fhein @lemmy.world

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311

Joined

2 yr. ago

I installed Elementary OS on a computer I built for a friend's kid, because I wanted something that was easy to use and low maintenance. It was pretty good from that point of view, but eventually that release got outdated and I discovered that they don't suppose upgrades between major versions.

I don't want to encourage Windows usage, but if you really need it you can buy a grey market license for $10-20.

With the exception of the false positive ban wave reported a few days ago, Apex Legends has played flawlessly on Linux for the last couple of years. According to comments on protondb, Fall Guys also appears to be working fine, including multiplayer with anti-cheat. I'm not trying to tell you that you shouldn't run Windows if you want to, but perhaps you didn't fully explore all options?

If you switch back to Linux you could suggest Shatterline to your broke friends. It's f2p and had no issues with anti-cheat last time I tried it. I think Overwatch 2 is also f2p.

Tips for character creation?

What kind of tips are you looking for? Do you mean that you want to create characters with a lot of depth and backstory? Or do you want to min-max and create a very powerful character? Or just some general tips for how to come up with ideas? There are a lot of resources on youtube, and for example if you're interested in roleplaying and character depth I think Ginny Di might provide some ideas and suggestions. I don't have any links for min-maxing because I don't play that way myself, but I'm sure those exist too. If you only want a little inspiration to get started I think a character generator can serve as a starting point, and you can modify and/or expand on the random character until you get something you like.

Personally I find a lot of inspiration in watching professional DnD (there are indeed people who get paid to play TTRPGs), such as Exandria Unlimited: Calamity which is a prequel/spinoff to Critical Role (a group of voice actors) and a collaboration with Dimension 20 (a group of comedians). Just don't expect all your home games to be like that, at least not in the beginning.

As for finding groups, you could be the first person to post to /c/dnd_lfg@lemmy.world :) If you live in Sweden there's the Sverok national organization that sponsors tabletop and rpg clubs all over the country. Otherwise you could try finding a local store which sells these kind of games and ask there.

Even if modern slicers have gained a lot of advanced features, to my knowledge the gcode they output is still very simple. You can put all kind of fancy commands in the start and end gcode, but the actual printing part consists almost exclusively of commands that move the nozzle to a specific XYZ coordinate, and/or make the extruder motor move the filament either backwards or forwards.

Maybe ask your brother about what software he used it with? If the printer has an sdcard reader it might be easier to print off that than try to get it to communicate with a computer. I don't have any first hand experience with that old printers, but I would guess it uses some kind of serial over USB protocol similar to modern printers. If you're using Windows I think you might need to track down a driver for the printer's serial controller, but if you have Linux there's a chance it has the necessary drivers built in.

I think it's the "…Yes sorry, I will show myself out." that makes it sound like you were trying to make a joke

Could it be the Micro Swiss you're thinking of? AFAIK it is ok, though a bit over priced. Personally I would stay away from the cheap clones you find on Amazon/Aliexpress/Wish as the quality can be a bit of a gamble. Other CR-10 compatible hotends that I've heard good things about include Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, Mellow NF Zone, Slice Copperhead. If you just want an all metal CR-10 style hotend I would get one either from Trianglelab or Mellow, who are known to have relatively good manufacturing quality. They've gone up quite a lot in price so they're almost as expensive as a Micro Swiss. Best value option is probably to just buy a high quality all-metal heatbreak and reuse the cooler and heat block from the stock hotend, in case you still have those.

My wife switched to Linux recently and we kept her large data hdd as it was (i.e. ntfs) but within a week she discovered several new files had been corrupted, and could neither be opened or deleted. Seemed to be happening when she was using drag and drop in Thunar, while moving files using copy paste worked better. Didn't want to take more risks so we backed everything up and reformatted to ext4.

If you want a really fancy markdown note-taking app try obsidian.md. Unfortunately not FOSS so perhaps not the solution for OP, but free for non-commercial use in case anyone else is interested.

Give qpwgraph a try, does the same thing

Don't know how much "minor customization" is to you, but perhaps try adding some major stuff before giving up on it. Personally I started with prezto, customised it, and added a few things like fzf. Fish is probably nice too but I haven't got around to giving it a fair try.

I like Teaching Tech's calibration guide.

And if you don't mind me asking, where have you heard good things about volcano hotends, and what things specifically? Unfortunately it can be difficult to know who to trust nowadays as there's a lot of affiliate links disguised as buying advice, paid "reviews", and well meaning people who confidently repeat what they've heard without knowing anything about how true it is. Personally I've always thought of volcanoes as a niche item for increasing your print speed while potentially sacrificing some quality, but I've never used one myself so don't trust me either :). Some people appear to be able to calibrate them properly but oozing seems like a very common problem. If you bought some random cheap hotend off amazon there's definitely a risk that you got a dud, as you said.

Me a few months ago when upgrading my computer: pff, who needs 64GB of RAM? Seems like a total waste

Me after realising you can run LLM at home: cries

A lot of printers also heat the bed unevenly, so the temperature could be significantly higher in the centre of the build plate. This video shows it fairly well. You could try adding a few minutes delay to your start gcode after the printer thinks it's reached the correct bed temp, to let it even out a little.

The linked article doesn't provide any details, it merely states that an artist used AI to "create" or "generate" artwork. However in a different article about the same incident the artist claims that he only used an AI as a tool to enhance his own drawings, and provides before and after images. Assuming he isn't lying to cover his ass, IMO the AI contributed very little to the artwork.

Well this is lemmy and not reddit, so surely people will read the actual article and not just the clickbait half-true headline.

In the photos it also looks like there's a low wall below the corner "window", which doesn't look like it's present in the preview. Perhaps the creator made different iterations of the model, and either used photos from an earlier prototype, or they uploaded the wrong model file.

https://github.com/miroslavpejic85/mirotalk might be an option. There's both a server based version and a p2p version IIRC.

Ah, nice! I started implementing the same thing a long time ago but got bored making all the UI screens after I had coded the basics :)

Found out just now that Marlin finally got input shaping: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M593.html

There's however a risk that you have to compile your own firmware if you want to enable it. Definitely not impossible if you know your way around computers, but editing Marlin configs can be quite daunting. Not that installing and configuring Klipper would be trivial for a computer illiterate person, but over all I've found it much easier to work with. I used Marlin for about a year, including compiling my own version of it, before switching.

For me the biggest disadvantage with Klipper is that I haven't got around to printing an enclosure for the RPi so it's just sitting on the desk next to the printer, and it's not compatible with the E3v2 display so I have to use Mainsail on my phone if I want to control the printer from the same room. I could of course buy a proper touch screen and run KlipperScreen, but they're a bit pricey.