You could also have a look at the few lines of G-Code that seem to trigger it. Although finding that line is not so easy. I'm just wondering if you would find an unexpected jump in the E coordinate ie. E jumping to E. That would at least make sure that the slicer is the culprit. If you don't find such a thing, I guess your printer is badly configured somehow.
It's the standard hotend coming with the Kobra Max. I think it is V6 style. The adapter mounts on a thread where there previously was a 10mm bowden coupler. If you have one of those, chances are high it should fit.
It's an extruder, ie. the part doing the pushing on the filament. Having it close to the hotend has some advantages. If you printer already has the extruder on the print head, this mod does not make sense. If it is mounted on the side of the X-axis, it might be worth it.
I'd nevertheless first get used to your printer as is until you discover the weaknesses that you want to fix.
Huh, makes sense I guess. I print lampshades that usually remove easily due to the small surface and for small parts I often just use a tiny hammer to get them off.
As for the wiring, I was considering keeping all the existing cabling which I well made and just create adaptors from the connectors that went into the old board to the Manta. The board and connectors are labelled IIRC and in doubt my multimeter will have to be used.
Thanks a lot for your nice input. I'll look into attaching the plate to either directly to the top of the hotend or onto the mounting fork. I'll maybe get a copperhead heatbreak. It looks like it can reduce the amount of molten material and thus reduce the need for retraction. I already have the Zombie3D modded firmware but I plan on using a BTT Manta M8P that I have lying around. I'm just waiting for a crimping tool to be shipped so I can make some nice adapter cables between the Manta and the Kobra.
What's the benefit of the spring steel PEI sheet? I guess it's definitely nicer to remove objects and maybe it creates a nicer texture on the bottom. Anything else? Does it heat up quicker?
Hah, good to hear from you. I spent some hours yesterday designing a replacement print head housing where I could mount the Orbiter on top. While doing it it occurred to me that what you describe could actually be a problem. I have three options now:
Continue with my original idea but also attach the flange to the carriage in order to not have it dangle around while the X-axis moves.
Try to attach the Orbiter onto the mounting fork together with the hotend
Get rid of the whole strain gauge thing and use a modular mounting kit and add some other bed-leveling sensor.
I don't see why not. Many types of pasta like macaroni, penne etc. are extruded. The machines used for those types of pasta operate at pretty high pressure I could imagine though. What exactly do you have in mind?
I've been thinking about alternatives to classical 3d printing polymers, and dough might actually not be such a bad idea. When adding enough salt, it will not perish and it becomes pretty tough.
I printed a Fairphoe 4 bumper case in 95A since the origianal was 40€. It's incredibly durable but at the time I printed it using a bowden extruder so I had to clean it up considerably due to stringing. I have a direct drive extruder since today (will post about it soon) and will print another bumper for a family member. I'm excited about how it will turn out
People use OS' for different things. As an admin I'd love to have an os that's just there and never needs any attention. I'll have to investigate if slackware fits the bill :)
Would love to go but have other important stuff happening that week. Next year I'll go hopefully.