bluewing @ bluewing @lemm.ee

Posts

3

Comments

1,094

Joined

2 yr. ago

Maybe round it up to 4 just to be safe.......

And if you insist on being unattractive, then have you tried being rich?

Yep. When buying a product, it ain't about the packaging, color of the paint, or the sticker/badge hung on it. It's all about the service when things go sideways. And at some point something will go wrong, it always does. That's when you learn just how good or bad a company is.

As a boomer, reading this thread/discussion has been so amusing in many ways while enjoying my cuppa tea this morning. A classic "the younger generations are stupid."

The older generations looking down the ones that follow. And the following generations looking down on those that precede them. And no one understanding ain't none of us are all that bright.

Ever has it been, and so ever shall it be.

And there is little reason to do input shaping on the start of every print unless you change the mass of the moving parts by a noticeable amount. And even then, it does nothing once the print starts. You get what you get anyway when the print is finished.

What would be better is if a printer could measure and adapt to the changing resonances as the printer was printing. But I suspect that ain't going to happen anytime soon due the complexity and the ultimate question: "How good does good enough really need to be."

Only if the lock isn't worn or dirty on the inside. I wouldn't trust this for any outdoor lock or older lock. Even cheap locks with poor fit and finish causing rough operation would not be a good idea. This is a fun gimmick that could easily cost you more money than it's worth.

The only way I might use it is if I were to use the 3D printed key as a pattern to cast a metal one. And I ain't got time for that.

It's still the same function at the base level-- to deliver and install/remove, in an easy manor, whatever software package the user wants to use/remove. Whether it's a good system or not, is a separate issue.

Every Ubuntu based distro I've tested allows snaps. The highly touted beginner's distro Linux Mint sure does. Even Fedora can use snaps and Ubuntu can use flatpaks if you want to be that silly. I have tested that both ways and it worked. But it was merely OKish. It's just Ubuntu pushes snaps and Fedora pushes flatpaks. So snaps aren't as insular as you seem to think.

For the user, there isn't much difference between a snap, flatpak, deb, or rpm in use. The basic install or remove experience is meant to be the same, it's supposed to be a carefully curated point and click. Even Gentoo's portage is supposed to be simple for the user. The one other not quite as common, but a bit more universal installation method for users is the appImage package. I use several appImages because that's the only way they are available. And personally, over the nearly 3 decades of fooling with Linux, I've had issues with all of the package management methods. I still have PTSD from being repeatedly caught in rpm hell back in the day or needing to compile from source. (Damn, I'm old)

The longer I use Linux, the more I think that whatever distro you choose, it's more a matter of how you personally vibe with that distro than anything intrinsically better than the rest of them. Just about everything else is window dressing.

So basically, Ubuntu just with a different name and paint job. (I've used them both)

We are all at the most basic level, running pretty much the same kernel, one of the same small handful of desktop environments, and we choose from the same pool of software, (unless you need to get out into the weeds for a program on git hub). Everything else is either window dressing, (package mangers are window dressing-- they all do the same basic thing), or a choice on just how close to the bleeding edge we want to be, (rolling releases or immutable).

Celery is excellent that way. A peanut butter lover's dream

No! CheezWiz with raisins or nothing! Just like my mother used to make.

My Acer Nitro with Aurora Says Hi!

(I'm thinking maybe going to Kinonite)

I think those linear rods and bearing are the weak part of the system. They are too prone to vibrations and whipping around at high speeds. But I'm too lazy to go after more upgrades on my printer at this point.

I do have a standard flow .60mm ObXidian for abrasive filament, but they were a LOT cheaper then. Plus I already have a lot of brass Revo nozzles already. But...........I want.

It could be a fun project for the kids. A bit of googling should get you more information on different brands printers too. Plus all the open source projects available to do mods and accessories that can require some basic to moderate programming skills to be learned.

I know how hard it can be to kids to have enough fun to learn about how to use technology. I spent a few years teaching CAD and 3D printing to kids in school. I also tried to get the machine shop up and running again. But the school would not allow it.

I do know exactly how it works. As far as the error in the metric system, let me goggle that for the lazy and ignorant

If you open Bambu Studio, and click on the edit box to the right of you machine type and look at the first tab under Basic Settings, and in the Advanced section, its says G-Code flavor-- Marlin(legacy). Now, don't mistake that for the firmware they use.

Those physical constants were randomly chosen. And they eventually chose a different physical standard only recently. And it STILL contains an error even after all these centuries because one of the original men sent to do the real world measurement cheated at his job and made up some of his measurements to avoid traversing some difficult terrain. So yes, it turns out it's as "made up" as much as any other system.

Your Bear mod will be a lot different than my stock frame and E3D Revo V6 hotend. The profiles I have been using are based on what I think I can get away with from what I learned about from the input shaping. I think you can get away with a bit more than I can. Particularly if you went from the 8mm linear rods to a set of linear rails. That would be far more rigid and vibration damping along with the heavier frame. Did you go with a high flow extruder too? I've been debating on a .40mm Revo ObXidian high flow nozzle lately. But The cost is high even for the Revo eco-system.

Good thing the US doesn't use the Imperial measurement system then, (we use US Customary which is different than Imperial). That pretty much started to diverge by the end of the revolutionary War. And for your information, we are all looking for that same missing 10mm wrench and socket just like you guys are. We use the metric system all the bloody time. From soda pop and whisk(e)y to every food item in a grocery store to the Canyonaro pickups we drive are all metric. We just don't force it by law like the rest of the world.

The point was to make fun of any and all who think ANY measurement system is better than another or even matters at all. They all consist of made up units all thought up by random dudes long ago that enough other people thought were pretty skookum and decided to use.

Yes, Prusa runs on Marlin which isn't a bad thing, but so does Bambu printers.

Klipper does a few things for me.

1. Klipper allows for a lot of customization if you want it. Everything is a text file. And your printer.cfg is easily editable. And is a cheap way to turn your Mk3s/+ into a Mk3.5 for easily under $100US-- depending on what recommended RPi you decide to buy. Accelerometers are dirt cheap. I bought the expensive recommended $20 KUSBA plus a $5 data cable because I didn't have one. The RPi 4b I already had for years.
2. It gives the Mk3s a 32bit controller thanks to a Raspberry Pi 4b running the printer now rather than the 8bit RamBo factory board. The RamBo merely relays the moves that klipper tells it to do.
3. I can now use an inexpensive accelerometer to setup input shaping very easily.
4. This gives the printer the ability to print faster without a drop in quality. I went from printing 45mm²/sec to 80mm²/sec and accelerations from 1200mm² to 4000mm².
5. This particular conversion is easily reversible in about 10 minutes if I should ever decide I don't like it. It's merely a matter of re-flashing the firmware to the RamBo. And reinstalling OctoPrint to the RPi.
6. This does not mean it's now as fast as my mini. It's not and never will be. But it's far better than it was. For example, in this run of parts, when printing the same part, (identical test connector), with the same filament, the print times are within 10 minutes of each other. The only difference being the Mk3s has a .60mm nozzle installed and the Mini has a .40mm Nozzle installed. I run a .40mm nozzle in the Mini because Bambu optimizes it's printers specifically for that size. And there is no difference in tolerances and quality. The parts are perfectly interchangeable.

If you are interested, this is the git hub I used to klipperize my Mk3s

I didn't say it was. Just that has been quite popular with those types of defective people over the history of the use of the metric system.

The Imperial system has it's own special though.