WxFisch @ Wxfisch @lemmy.world

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116

Joined

2 yr. ago

Curious about the ears you have on your 8 port POE switch; I’d love to rack mount mine and get it off my “other stuff” shelf. Are they from UI? Or did you repurpose some from something else?

Not all modern furnaces and water heaters pull in outside air. Less expensive gas furnaces may still use interior air for combustion and almost all gas water heaters will. Heat pump water heaters absolutely need ventilation to work correctly as well.

Food theory covered this in terms of Christmas trees. The answer is yes, mostly, with a lot of caveats, and also probably not really.

So you never apply patches or updates, that seems like an odd thing to be proud of but different strokes for different folks I guess.

Backblaze B2. Any software that is S3 compatible can use B2 as the target and it’s reasonably priced for the service. I backup all the PCs and services to a Synology NAS and then backup that to B2 (everything except my Plex media, that would be pricy and it’s easy enough to re-rip from disc if needed).

I spoke too soon, I was silently logged out again after a few hours. It may be an issue with Memmy, but it doesn’t seem to happen with my other account so not sure.

This seems to have fixed it, thanks!

The problem I have is there is no way to playback live tv on AppleTV which is what we use throughout our home. Plex just works and has wife approved first party apps for pretty much everything.

This is pretty much it, Plex offers far more client apps that are full featured and they make it super easy to setup and use both as an admin and a user. Especially for things like OTA TV where they provide the guide data once it’s setup (which is why it’s a paid option). I’d move to JellyFin in a heartbeat if they’d support OTA and DVR playback on AppleTV.

I’ve had to relogin to Memmy twice so far this evening. I’m guessing it’s related to recovery from the incident earlier today but it’s certainly annoying. Hopefully it gets remedied soon.

Paper goods meaning napkins, paper plates (mostly for food prep), paper towels, etc. agreed 100% on actual paper for writing.

In most companies I’ve worked for, T1 is there to put in tickets from calls, and handle the simplest of tasks (password resets, account lockouts, “have you tried turning it off and on again” tasks). Anything beyond that is generally sent to T2 (usually the desktop team who then force other teams to accept tickets as needed) and T3 for anything that more systemic or needs deeper troubleshooting and system knowledge.

In many places it’s a combination of piss poor pay creating little motivation and high turnover (and thus lack of training) and management prioritizing the wrong metrics (generally looking for short call times and short call queues). If you want to try and improve things I’d suggest learning about the KPIs that team is expected to meet, and then ask management why they chose those metrics. Generally I’ve found prioritizing first call resolution over call times to be a huge improvement to motivation of the team and user satisfaction scores (we all like solving problems and users tend to be way nicer when you fix the issue vice kick the can).

I would say, at least to your point about them not having access to systems, that’s it’s very common for T1 to have pretty limited admin access to systems. Partly to protect against inexperience, but also as a social engineering protection. If they need to ask for access to pass a ticket for elevated rights, it gets another set of eyes on the call to ensure it’s all kosher.

• Almost all paper goods, specifically Kirkland brand.
• Canned veggies are all the same as well, so whatever’s cheapest
• most dried herbs and spices
• staples like flour, butter, sugar, oil, etc. they are basic and as long as you are getting the kind you need (like AP flour or dark brown sugar) there isn’t any room for differences that the average consumer could notice anyways

In general it’s because it’s difficult or impossible to fully monetize a user on a third party app. This could be because the API doesn’t serve ads (like Reddit) or because it’s harder to track and harvest user data when they are not using a first party app.

Essentially, platforms like Reddit make deals with advertisers that they will display an ad in a certain format near certain types of connect (and away from other kinds) and will show them to users with specific interests. They can’t really do that if the user isn’t coming through a platform the company fully controls (so their website or apps). On top of this, their apps are designed to keep you engaged as long as possible and to harvest as much information about you as they can without you getting upset and leaving. This lets them target ads more specifically (which means they can charge more for them) as well as sell that data to brokers for even more money (who then sell it to advertisers). It’s all about how to best turn your attention into money, and a third party app doesn’t allow that (either at all or as much as a first party experience).

Reddit specifically also wants to sell access to their data to companies like OpenAI to train large language models as additional revenue sources, to do that they need to lock down the API used by apps to work with the platform.

So yes, most guides will tell you you need to wear a respirator while working with the resin, but personally I find it really depends on the type of resin I’m using. Generally if I’m just filling the vat then starting a print I won’t bother, same if I’m just removing my print from the plate and getting it ready to post process. But if I’m cleaning up and emptying the vat or I have a bunch of prints I’m working to clean and cure I’ll wear my respirator. Gloves are an always though.

A few additional items you’ll want:

• a silicon mat to work on to make clean up easier
• paint filters an a funnel to strain the leftover resin when you’re done printing and want to store it for later
• a plastic putty knife to scrape failed prints from the film (also good for removing your print from the build plate)
• high quality isopropyl alcohol (better than 90%, any less and there’s too much water which makes cleaning not work as well). I pick mine up at the local big box home improvement store (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Menards, etc) in gallon cans. Find it in the aisle with cleaning stuff and paint thinners.
  • you’ll want to put some isopropyl into a bottle just for cleaning your equipment and work area. I use a spray bottle that I also use for cleaning the build plate on my FDM printer.
• extra film since you’ll likely scratch yours after a few failed prints

I found it takes some practice to get the prints setup and sliced for good printing, way more than when I later got into FDM printing, expect failed prints. Supports are much more necessary than on FDM prints, but the fact that it’s upside down doesn’t really make a difference since it’s still printing bottom to top, you just need to be careful of islands as you print since it’s all printed a full layer at a time. This also means the only thing that increases print time is height, something that is the full area of the build plate but only 1cm tall will print faster than a 10cm long needle printed straight up and down despite being way more volume. So fill up that build plate with multiple models to save time.

It does require a lot more post processing than FDM, like at least as much work as prepping, slicing, and actually printing. I can take something off my FDM printer and it’s ready to use, I need to account for at least 30-60 mins of work once my resin prints are finished to clean them, cure them in my UV box, remove supports, and then clean up the vat and printer. I tend to batch print for this reason, getting 3-5 sets of items ready to go and then running them back to back over the weekend. This means I only need to clean the printer up once.

You’ll want to print (likely on your FDM printer) an adapter to allow your build plate to be hung at an angle to allow resin to drain into the vat once a print is done. This will waste less resin when you clean.

This is all just off the top of my head and written on mobile, so apologies for and autocorrect mistakes. Feel free to ask for clarification on anything.

IMO those service line insurance mailers you get from the gas and power company that will cover the cost of the service lateral to your meter if something goes wrong for like $8 a month. They are designed to be just low enough you won’t really think about it too much but are huge profit centers, and generally issues with gas/water service connections aren’t super common and while they can be a few thousand to get fixed if they do happen you’d be better off just putting the $8 a month into a high yield savings account. Then you can at least use it for any surprise home repairs and get to choose the contractor for the work.