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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)TW
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2 yr. ago

  • I had it 4 times that I'm sure of. Long term effects saw me bed ridden for the larger part of a year with my stamina and immune system still heavily affected to this day.

    Smell and taste are back to 75% I'd say, could all be in my head but I swear stuff had a stronger taste/smell 2 years ago.

  • At least the switch still worked fine with usbc to Bluetooth adapters before the update, I actually still use mine since it has significantly less latency than the switch itself.

  • Don't need to measure, just increase the size by .1 when the extruded lines aren't flattened out by the nozzle anymore. It's not a foolproof strategy but might save you from wearing out multiple nozzles instead of 1

  • Even if you do wear out your nozzle slightly it probably still works perfectly fine if you change nozzle size/line width in the slicer. I printed a bunch of cf-asa on a brass nozzle since my hardened steel one hadn't arrived yet. Started out as a .4 but became a .8 nozzle after about 500 grams of printing.

  • If you do get an enclosure printing abs will probably be just as easy as pla. People overstate the difficulties but it's really not that difficult of a material to print as long as you can get 45°C+ air temps which is more than doable with even a cardboard box and the heat of the bed.

    It might actually print nicer than pla on an ender since abs relies less on a good heatbreak and part cooling. Both of which are the stock Ender's biggest weak point imo.

  • Makers muse has some great videos on the g10 sheets as build surface. Your printer should be running klipper so it would be possible to alter the temp sensor by using a second calibrated temp probe on the build sheet and measuring the resistance of the main temp sensor and writing your own table for it. I did this for some old ntc10k sensors that read way wrong

  • I personally don't mind textured pei for small mechanical parts but the roughness and depth of the texture can vary wildly.

    But take a look at g10 fr4 sheets, they work perfectly for pla/abs/tpu and have a flat finish. A 330x330x3mm plate should only run you about $25 less if you can source it locally.

    Edit: the side cooling fan is only useful for speed benchies or doing a plate full of parts with overhangs where the fan on the toolhead doesn't spend enough time in one place to cool effectively. The side fan might also be placed too low, impacting bed temps more than it ideally does. If you plan on using it more I would recommend doing the bed pid tune with the fan at printing speeds.

  • I was out camping in Slovenia with the scouts. We stayed in podljubelj and met an older guy (friend our campground owner, important for later) that did tours through the redstone mines and abandoned buildings in the mountains. The tour was to take 3 hours and it cost €15 cash only, so we did a quick calculation of how much we needed and got it from the atm just before the tour started.

    We had a great time and got some cool memories climbing down a abandoned mineshafts and lifts while this guy was terrified for our lives😅 So the tour concludes and we go to pay him, and he almost fell over backwards when we handed him €200 which was the price we calculated + a small tip.

    Turns out the €15 wasn't per person but instead a flat rate no matter the group size. Fucking €15 for guiding a group of 12 idiots for 3 hours.

    We ended up having intense negotiations with the guy for how much he was willing to take. In the end we managed to convince him to take €100 from us and we ended up giving the other €100 to our campground owner who would make sure his stubborn friend didn't turn down "free" money.

    I still can't believe that tour was meant to be just €15