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  • Why don’t we get them all together in a single place at the same time for a… uh, celebration of health insurance CEOs? We can show them all how much they mean to us at once.

  • I think the third game (are you playing the re-release with the fixed camera controls? https://metalgear.fandom.com/wiki/Metal_Gear_Solid_3:_Subsistence) opens up after you’ve gotten past the first couple of areas. I’d rank the third just below the original. If some of the cutscenes were shorter, I’d put them on equal footing.

    But if you’re not into it, I wouldn’t force it. There are too many great games to play something that’s not fun for you. I never finished the fourth game because of that, and I never even started the fifth even though I bought it on sale for $5.

    Also, give the Gamecube remake of the original a shot (The Twin Snakes). It was essentially the original baked into the game engine and control scheme of the second game.

  • They will limit, but not by as much as you’d want. Plastic bags still allow moisture to pass through even when they’re airtight. I live in a swamp, so drying is a necessity before every print.

  • You can always stream from your desktop to your Deck too if the performance on the Deck isn’t great.

    I do this with my PS5 sometimes. I played the majority of Miles Morales that way.

    Hey, what was it that you didn’t like about BG3? I haven’t played it yet because my patience for RPGs is low these days.

  • with the latest 1.5 patch you can easily reach 60fps during normal gameplay (all low settings, FSR3 frame gen enabled). you can even reach 90fps incertain cases. its honestly impressive what they were able to squeeze out of the steamdeck.

    https://www.protondb.com/app/2420110?device=steamDeck

    I’m sure your desktop plays it better, but it should now work on the Deck despite the unverified status (this is the case more often than not).

  • Getting the first layer height correct is another key with PETG. You generally don’t want to have your Z offset further down than it takes to get an even layer. Find that level, then adjust the extrusion multiplier on your filament in order to fill in any minor gaps. Lowering your Z offset to fill in those gaps is going to contribute to buildup on your nozzle. As far away from the build plate as possible has been the right level for me.

    I can definitely print closer to the bed with other materials than I can with PETG.

  • Inland is my go-to since Microcenter contracts with good manufacturers. Their ASA is made by Polymaker, the PLA+ is eSun (I use a lot of it), but I’m not sure who makes their PETG. I’m sure it’s good though.

  • I’m not sure, but you should be careful while handling this stuff. It seems like it’s hazardous - the dust it produces in particular. You’re not supposed to handle it without gloves. I also can’t find any info about drying it out safely if the dust it produces isn’t supposed to be breathed in.

    Maybe you’ve done this research already, and I’m overthinking this, but whatever you wind up doing, just be safe.

    https://www.vanairsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/activated-alumina-msds-sheet.pdf

    https://ivysads.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/05/SDS-Activated-Alumina-P400016-M001-210-213-214-AA-2024.pdf

  • I used to use those mesh strainers for hops when I was still brewing beer. I would use them for desiccant drying too, but I don’t think my oven maintains low temperatures well enough to not melt the beads.

    I got a food dehydrator instead which I think would work with your 3D printed desiccant holders if you make them out of the right materials.