Interesting. Maybe try adding that grid-template-columns line and maybe it'll force the width and get them to spread out? Only other thing would be try clearing browser cache if you haven't already.
Did you modify the yaml before it started doing this? Kind of looks like perhaps an incorrect value on a column number or width line of the grid layout card.
For example, I have the following at the top of my mobile dashboard to force one column and a certain width (though it'd probably default to this anyway).
title: Mobile
views:
title: Home
type: custom:grid-layout
layout:
max_cols: 1
grid-template-columns: 350px'
Usually yes, level 1 is plugging into a typical 110V socket. You can also adjust the amperage draw on some chargers. I can go from 6 to 12 A in 2 A increments on the one that came with my ioniq 5.
Level 2 is 220V and 25-80 A (<20kW).
Level 3 is technically anything above 20 kW, but usually 50 kW is the floor. These are the EV-specific fast chargers or Tesla's Superchargers.
An EV on level 1 (or 2) is a continuous load, so I'd imagine probably easier to handle than an intermittent load.
I've got two Ubiquiti APs and the standard Dream Machine and am quite happy with them too. Sure, they're not the cheapest option, but they're quite feature rich and expansion within the ecosystem is very easy.
It should be able to handle that threshold, I've got similar ones in my bathrooms and it gets over them without issue.
I haven't experimented with multiple floors, but it shouldn't be an issue. The in-app FAQ says it'll create a different map per floor, so you'd just select that map to start it on a different floor. I'd imagine it'd notify you when done or full and you'd have to return it to the base station. It also has edge detection and doesn't fall down stairs.
Unfortunately, I inadvertently updated my firmware before digging into Valetudo where they recommend not updating. I was going to join their telegram to see if it's still possible. The site says rooting is straightforward, but their telegram would probably be the best place to get assistance.
Passing with dignity and on your own terms? Sign me up (when the time comes). I know a provider who does these. Death is often a very sad thing, but in the medical field transitioning to providing this service as comfort, rather than simply preserving life of any definition, it can be a loving, even more celebratory event.
She put it simply, "would you want your last words to be 'I love you,' or 'I can't breathe'?" You can be a vegetable in a hospital bed, or you can be in your favorite chair at home, listening to your favorite music, with friends and family by your side. I know which option I'd take if I am fortunate to get to choose.
It's almost not worth the hassle for level 1 charging because it's so slow though. Might as well put in a level 2, and even then, you're not often charging every night unless you're putting serious miles on your EV daily. I'd say one level 2 charger for four occupants/EVs would be reasonable.
As an engineer, critical infrastructure should very much be designed with redundancy and failsafes to prevent failure from any reasonable risk. Cold weather impacting natural gas supply is reasonable risk that can have a catastrophic impact on people's ability to heat their homes and it's mind blowing how those failures have happened more than once in recent years. Utilities should be held to much higher standards and immediate action taken after failures to prevent the same from happening again.
I just ordered a pair of the ratgdo devices for full, local-only control. Ratgdo also allows control of the lights separaely, so I'm going to automate the light turning on when someone goes into the garage.
I have Blue Iris NVR with Reolink cameras. A bit of tweaking, but it was easy to follow tutorials online and they integrate into HA nicely. Blue Iris isn't free, but I couldn't get Frigate to work and don't have the background to troubleshoot it very well. I'd say it's worth the cost, though.
The construction of the wall assembly has a much larger impact on the wall's ability to dry rather than the airtightness of your home. The concern is that moisture from higher humidity air within the wall cavity can condense as the exterior temperature drops and cools the exterior portion of wall. Standard practice is to have one side of the wall assembly be vapour permeable, typically the outside in cool climates. Typically, vapour impermeable poly is on the inside of the walls, just behied the drywall so the moisture of the more humid, warm air inside the home can't get into the wall. When the outside of the wall is vapour permeable, the wall is free to dry to meet the moisture conditions of the outside air, rather than condensing. But, if you install a system like you're proposing, you're trapping moisture and the likelihood of it condensing within the wall is greatly increased, potentially leading to rot issues over the long term.
I'd recommend using a high performance air-weather barrier (AWB) such as tyvek drainwrap, siga majvest, or pro-clima intello with EPS (not XPS) insulation, as its slightly vapour permeable, and don't tape the seams. Those AWBs are vapour permeable, allowing the wall to dry, but won't allow any water to penetrate from the outside.
For the bottom joint, properly installed siding will prevent nearly all water from getting behind it. The air gap behind it created by the furring will allow any moisture that does happen to get behind it to dry. The most secure solution would probably be to tape the bottom of the new AWB to the top of the shingle or whatever's the top layer, then put L flashing over the AWB, under the insulation with the top of the flashing taped to the AWB (with manufacturer recommended tape, Siga Wigluv is a good choice).
Firstly, do you live in a warm climate, where walls dry to the inside, or a cool climate, where walls dry to the outside? Given your mention of snow and ice, I'd guess you're in a cool climate and you're creating a vapour trap with ice/water shield and insulation on the exterior, with typical poly vapour barrier on the inside.
If this is the case, you'll want a vapour permeable air-weather barrier rather than ice/water shield (or confirm that it's vapour permeable) and it would be best to use vapour open insulation, like semi-rigid mineral wool, rather than EPS or XPS.
To answer your question, could you not just have L flashing from behind the furring (not furrowing) and bug screen down onto the shingles?
I'm not terribly familiar with the Fairphones, but are you able to upgrade the ram yourself? I feel like that should be a key part of the modularity concept.
I'd recommended PC part picker to determine compatibility with all your upgrades. You can tinker with different setups fairly easily and have the costs easily accessible. I believe there are also tools to determine likely bottlenecks, but I haven't searched for many lately.
GPU will definitely be the biggest cost, but also likely the most noticeable improvement. RAM is fairly cheap, so you can bump up to 32 Gb without much expense. Not too familiar with Intel CPUs but it's possible you might create a bottleneck with a GPU upgrade. Not the end of the world if you're fine with upgrading that later too.
Interesting. Maybe try adding that grid-template-columns line and maybe it'll force the width and get them to spread out? Only other thing would be try clearing browser cache if you haven't already.