LrdThndr @ LrdThndr @lemmy.world

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2 yr. ago

Man, I really wanted to like duck, but I’ve never had duck and enjoyed it. I’ve had it both Chinese and French style, and hated it every time.

The French style was confit du canard from Le Petit Saint-Benoit in Paris, and they’re supposedly famous for it, and I still hated it.

I describe that movie to people as "The entire movie is filmed in one continuous shot from the first person perspective of the main character. Which is interesting because he dies 10 minutes in."

You are a fucking hero. I couldn't figure out why my Roku TVs were still able to get ads after blocking everything.

Nah, you can’t do that bruh. It’s only for emergencies. In fact using it can damage your door. It’s a STUPID fucking design.

100% fair. And I agree with you dude. It’s a STUPID fucking design.

But to say there isn’t one at all is disingenuous and detracts from the 100% on the nose argument you’re making.

I agree with you 100%, but your example doesn’t work. There IS a mechanical way to open the door. There’s a concealed handle near the window controls.

Still won’t buy one because the quality is shit and Muskrat is a shitbag, but if you’re gonna hate, hate for the right reasons :)

I think it was TwoTrees brand. Tbh, it’s pretty cheapass, and the slide bearings on the spoilboard mount suck, but it runs grbl and cut a dickbutt into a 2x4, so it works at least.

Ah, good to hear! I bought a tiny desktop cnc from microcenter for like $150 and apart from setting it up and doing a test cut, I haven’t used it once. Makes me a bit sad actually.

D&D, 3d printing, pen turning (making pens from wood and resin, not flipping them around on my fingers), MTG, and I dabble in woodworking and occasional metal working.

FYI: 3d printing pairs really well with D&D - minis, scenery, accessories, etc. Start with a cheap SLA resin printer to print minis on, then expand to filament when you’re ready to do scenery too. I have a resin printer and two filament printers.

If there was ever a need for a one-page rpg to be written…

In a row?

Looks at my $1500 3d printer.

How you just gonna call me out on a personal level in public like that?

Looks at the storage totes full of filament in my laundry room.

Nope. No idea what you’re talking about. Never done that. No siree Bob. What kind of monster…

OK fine I admit it stop with all these accusations.

Lot of jargon in this that most of us don’t understand. Dnm? Ddg? Can you explain it more clearly for us general admission ticket holders?

Also, thoughts on shrooms?

I simplified a bit. But it’s easy to bork the cable in the process, and it’s also possible the cable didn’t follow standard wire coloring.

Here’s the step by step process for anybody who wants to do this but doesn’t know for sure what to do.

You will need a razor blade or wire stripper and a wire cutter, as well as a roll of electrical tape.

Also it should go without saying, but unplug both ends of the damn cable before you start. And if you’re using a blade, please be careful not to cut your finger open. Paying $800 for stitches in your finger hurts, defeats the purpose of being a cheapass and modding a cable to save a few bucks, and gets blood everywhere.

1. Verify that the usb cable is a CHARGE AND SYNC cable. A charge only cable will not work.
2. With your razor blade, make an incision into the usb cable about 6 inches from either end. Don’t cut too deep. Only go deep enough to cut the outer jacket. The cut should be slightly longer than your tape is wide. If you have a wire stripper, strip about a 3/4 inch section of the cable about 6 inches from either end.
3. If using a blade, cut around the jacket at both ends of your incision and peel off the jacket between your cuts. You should have about 3/4 inch of unwrapped cable.
4. If there’s a wire mesh wrapping the inside of the cable, cut SOME of the mesh, being careful to ensure that the mesh is still connected on both ends. If there’s a foil wrapper, find the seam and peel it back to expose the inner wires. You can cut the foil if necessary, but do not remove it entirely. Ensure that SOME of the foil and/or mesh is still attached at BOTH sides of the exposed section.
5. The inner wires should now be exposed. There should be 4 wires - red black white and green. There might also be a 5th wire with no insulation at all, but this won’t be in all cables. It’s okay if it’s missing. However, if you don’t see ALL of those 4 colors or see different colors STOP. Tape the cable back up and get a different one. If you only see TWO wires, you have a charge only cable and it won’t work. Tape it back up.
6. Clip the red wire TWICE, about an 1/8th inch apart. There should be a gap in the wire now if you line the ends up. DO NOT cut anything else inside the cable. The black white and green wires MUST remain intact for the cable to function.
7. Bend the red wires up and out of the jacket. Close up the foil and/or mesh and wrap ONLY the exposed portion of the cable with ONE layer of electrical tape, leaving the red wires sticking up on either side of the tape. It’s okay if some metal is exposed on either side of the tape, but the red wires should be able to lay down on it without the ends touching anything metal.
8. Lay the ends of the red wires down so that the ends are laying on the tape. The metal inside the red wire should NOT contact anything else that’s metal in the cable.
9. Wrap the whole opened section of the cable with electrical tape to an inch or two on both sides of the open section.

Plug it in and give it a try. You should have data-only usb cable that doesn’t deliver power now. Mark or label the cable in some way so that you don’t lose your mind trying to figure out why this damn usb cable doesn’t charge your phone when you pull it out of a box of random shit 5 years from now.

I bought a X1C and have never leveled it once. Everything is completely automatic, and I’ve never had a failed print.

If I can see that the print quality is starting to go down (and by that I mean I can see a little ringing or something), I just hit the calibrate button and it does everything on its own with zero intervention besides the initial button.

Or just sacrifice a usb cable - carefully open the wire jacket, snip the red wire, then tape it back up. Easy peasy done in 2 minutes.

I had more money for food and started eating out more and got a lot fatter. Now I’m trying to improve my health by not eating like an asshole anymore.

I also got access to more credit and promptly ran up a bunch of debt. Now I pay $1000 a month in minimum payments and I’m working on chipping the balances down, but at least my car is paid off now.

I also bought a house, which turned out to be the best financial decision I ever made. Got locked in at 2.9% before the market lost its damned mind. Now my $145K house is worth $330K. I mean, on paper at least, but it’s a useless number because everything else has gone up too, so selling and buying something else would be a wash price wise, but my interest would go to like 7%. But I only pay $908 a month for my mortgage, escrow, and pmi, so I’m doing better than paying $2K/mo for rent to line somebody else’s pocket.

So a handful of ups and downs. Best advice, control yourself - eat right and don’t spend money just because you have it. Sure, a new couch, etc might only be $100/mo, but all that shit adds up and you’ll end up with a 6 figure salary and a cabinet full of ramen noodles. Ask me how I know.

This is starting to read like a magic the gathering combo.

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Alabama - Legendary Land

At the beginning of your upkeep, create a 0/1 white child creature token and tap it.

Child creature tokens do not untap during your untap phase.

1, tap, sacrifice an untapped child creature token: Exile target creature or planeswalker until Alabama leaves the battlefield.