IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

Posts

25

Comments

900

Joined

2 yr. ago

I wonder what the various companies blend into their pla+. This stuff is from a company that's since gone out of business, but it seems to shrug off UI, rain, and ice/snow. It wasn't matter hackers, but they had a similar name from what I recall. USA made and cheap, but their QC wasn't great.

As for ASA, I've only printed Polymaker. I buy the 3kg spools when they go on sale and it's hard to beat 3kg for $70 or so. I am tempted to try another brand to see if it prints differently though.

Cars and airplanes do have 3D printed parts. They're much more common in the prototyping phase, but they are used in production and are making their way to space.

I completely agree with your general sentiment though. Any time a new piece of technology shows promise there are a ton of people who will loudly proclame that it will completely replace

<old and busted technology>

<a massive amount of areas>

See also: low/no code, which has roots going back to the 1980s at least.

Agree on ASA. I have some PLA+ prints that have been outdoors 24/7/365 for going on 5 years now and they're holding up really well, so that's another good option.

I've been printing ASA for about a year and a half and haven't dried a spool yet. I guess it all hinges on a mix of relative humidity in your area and how much you care about a flawless finish.

I take it you live somewhere that's fairly sunny year round? We had a visit from a door to door solar salesperson stop be recently, so I dug in a little. We get a little over 6 peek solar hours in the summer, but come winter we're down to around 2. Our energy use last month was about 25 kwh/day. There's basically no chance of us generating all of that :( Add in a third of that being my plugin Volt, which charges at night, and it's really not looking good for generating all our own power.

$20B is more than enough to house 650k people

I got curious, so I whipped out my phone's calculator. $20B/650k = $30,800, give or take. I truly don't know if that's enough to break the cycle of homelessness, but if it is that seems like a pretty low number. We spend 40x that number on the defense budget, which is totally a jobs program but it seems like fighting homelessness would also ultimately be a jobs program.

Eh, your account is still tied to an instance. That instance stores your subscriptions, as well as the vast majority of your preferences. If you want to get way into the weeds, that's why Jerboa won't persist comment sort order, but other clients will - there is a server side prefer for all/local/subscribed and new/hot/best at a post level, but not at a comment level.

The Frontier's Q3 sales of ~16k were outpaces by the Ranger (21k) Colorado 29k), Maverick (45k), and Tacoma (57k). It did outsell the Ridgeline (13k) and Canyon (10k).

I know there are ebs and flows as models change over, but I don't think either Nissan truck has ever been close to the front of the pack.

source

It also makes it easy to find all your subscriptions in one place. When every provider tries to get you to subscribe, hunting them all down becomes a pain.

Very cool, thanks! This will make it a lot easier for me to post OC.

Thanks for the reply and apologies for getting back to you. I typed that out right before going to bed :(

Looking in developer tools, it does look like Cloudflare is what's blocking me. Here's the cf-ray value: 8f4ffe74bffc22f1-ORD

Now that I'm on a PC, I can simply open the file in an image editor, resave it without making any intentional modifications, and the upload succeeds. It makes me think that it has something to do with the image metadata (maybe EXIF?).

I'll send you a pm you a link to the unmodified image momentarily.

I tried using the lemmy.world web UI and got the following error: json.parse unexpected character at line 1 column 1 of the JSON file.

I also get an error using the web UI - json.parse unexpected character at line 1 column 1 of the JSON file.

I still can't upload unedited pictures from my pixel 3a via Jerboa :( For whatever reason, uploading them as-is results In a 403 response. Editing them in google photos (minor cropping), saving, and trying again would often result in success.

I share your curiosity, but I don't have a ton of time to dig into this right now beyond the thought experiment. That's the reason for my slower responses :( Work is busy and the kids eat up most of free time.

You're right - the seal will directly impact bass. This is why the sound on some headphones will change fairly dramatically as you move your head around - you're breaking the seal. For me, the head position most likely to break the seal is turning my neck fully in one direction and looking up, but it can also happen with less extreme head motions depending on the cans. I could see volume also playing a role, since the air volume inside the pad is effectively a resonator and changes in air volume will impact how it resonates. I suspect the material of the cup itself will also play a role. Something dense/reflective, like leather, will likely sound somewhat different than say a suede or a microfiber. That was one reason why I was considering gyroid - it would be reasonably non-reflective.

After measuring my ear and looking at the CAD and print, my first prototype adds enough fore to aft clearance around my ear. It added around 3mm of extra depth. This clears my ear depth by about 1.7mm too far and is primarily from designing in a stiffer material than the original pad. The original pad touches my ear in several places which gets hot and annoying, especially in the summer.

Sounds like a similar motivator to my "I wish these didn't press on my glasses frames so hard" ;)

A pop-tube seems like it would be hard to print vertically oriented. I suspect it would move around some as you're printing thanks to not being very rigid. It wouldn't hurt to try it. Printing it sliced down the center and laying across the bed horizontally seems like it would be easier. I certainly hear you on the joys of TPU stringing, but if it's limited to the far ends of the print it shouldn't be too horrible to clean up. You could even design it a touch too long and cut the ends off.

Anyways, if I introduce this disconnected level of complexity to my next iteration, I can likely also add something like a recess for glasses too. I have the same issue with my reading glasses and just use ear buds instead when I need them.

Depending on the spacing of the tube crinkles, you might be able to line them up so your frames fit between them. You could also probably make one crinkle stick out a little less and line that up with your frames.

not that you should wait or anything like that.

At this point, I have nothing but time. I'm also trying out a pair of 'real' ANC headphones, vs my office drone headset that happens to have defeatable ANC. They have ridiculously sized pads and they're actually pretty comfortable with glasses. I am somewhat tempted to type out a mini-review somewhere here, but have no idea where I would post it.

I appreciate the detailed reply! You've certainly spent more time thinking about this than me.

My train of thought so far has been, "I wonder if I could partially notch my ear pads to fit my glasses better" -> "I could probably print something out of TPU" -> "I've seen gyroid only prints with no walls, varying the infill density could be a halfway decent method for messing with how squishy the print will be and without walls air shouldn't be trapped"

On my headphones, the pads snap into the headphones:

My stock pads are starting to fall apart and I have a pair of replacements on the way, so I am considering disassembling them for their rings and clips and gluing the print to that.

And you're right! While I was looking for replacements, I discovered that the stock units are functionally compatible with a bunch of other units although the finish materials are different.

All I was trying to say is that there are already homes that do not rely on combustion inside the house for heat. I then took it the next step further, lol.

This is indeed the source of the extra filament. I'm just wary of suggesting you pull the filament too far up, which could take it out of the melt zone and cause a clog trying to get it back in.

If OP isn't having stringing issues and wants to try this, they could add a smidge of retraction in the print end section of their slicer.

Electric stovrs and heat, in the form of heat pumps and traditional resistive, are a thing. Arguably you're using magic to pipe a remote fire from a power plant or the sun into your house, so you can heat your house and cook without fire in your house. Bonus points if you use hydro and/or wind for power generation, then there's turely zero fire involved.

Welcome!

To answer your question, what's happening is that filament in the meltzone of the nozzle is melting and oozing out after the nozzle reaches temp. It will stop oozing once the tiny bit of filament in the meltzone melts and subsequently oozes out.

I am not a Bambu user, but if you can preheat the nozzle earlier relative to its wipe you should be golden. It looks like they don't use Klipper, which means your slicer is probably controlling the order of things. Look at the print start gcode and have it heat the nozzle earlier. If you find whatever it has and copy/paste it here I, or someone else, will tell you what to move.

Happy printing!

Oh, I see where you're coming from - you want to print a straight line than you can bend. I was thinking to completely 3D print the pad and remove/replace the stock units. This would let me print them as an oval.