IMALlama @ IMALlama @lemmy.world

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25

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900

Joined

2 yr. ago

We have a 4 and 7 year old and keep the first floor between 63-67 °F. I also realized the Celsius temp above has a typo, it should be 15.5 °C and not 25.5. That would indeed be warm, lol.

BOM in a box is absolutely they way to go IMO. I ordered a customizable kit from West 3D and it contained everything I needed and more.

High as in nozzle height? What makes you say so?

Yes. It might be the lighting, but it looks like you have slight gaps between the first layer extrusions. Apologies if this isn't the case. This guide is very simply to follow and has some good photos: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

It’s TPU and the only model I could find for the OnePlus 12. https://www.printables.com/model/1027559-oneplus-12-tpu-case

Thanks! I also have a OnePlus 12, which is part of my motive for asking. I'm currently rocking a Poetic Guardian, but I wish the magsafe ring was a bit lower. I don't use it for wireless charging, but I do use it for magnetic grips and they're just a bit too high.

If you have a more popular phone you can probably find dozens or hundreds of designs.

This is my first OnePlus. I get the impression that the user base is pretty vocal (lots of posts), but the quantity of owners doesn't appear to be that high based on the number of accessories available.

Your first layer looks a llliiiitttttttllllle high, buy totally agree. It's great to have a reliable printer that you can fiddle with if you want to, not because you have to.

Details on the case? Material/DIY design? I am considering printing one for my phone.

I would start with mechanically getting the bed more level, even if it is tedious. After that, wash your bed with dish soap and a clean sponge. Then dry it with paper towels.

If the extrusion looks normal with octoprint and weird when doing a real print, how far is your nozzle off the bed? If it's too high you'll get stringy looking prints due to not enough squish.

I suspect when you were using octoprint the nozzle wasn't on the bed, but it was for the "real" print.

Largely agree, but I am curious. I also have an ethos of "trust, but verify" which this sensor scratches at. Why not measure even high quality filament?

It's not that much more than a traditional runout sensor, so it seems worth springing for it your printer doesn't have one.

Very curious to see how much this impacts print quality!

If prints were fine before the incident I would probably leave e-steps alone.

Agree 100% with the steps you outlined. To add on:

• when OP tells the printer to extrude during octoprint, what does the extruder do? Is the motor grinding (not enough tension) or clicking (indicative of a clog)?
• any new noises when printing?
• when OP pulls the filament out of the hot end, is there evidence of the gears grinding on the filament?

Is your shop/garage/space heated?

Somewhat? The printer is in my basement, which we don't actively heat. It's 60 °F / 25.5 °C down there.

I've been ducttaping the gap

The door gives you a much better seal, but it also gives you a thicker panel that will help insulation some. I saved one my acrylic side panels and will be attaching it to the door too to make a double pane... thing.

That soak time tracks with mine as well.

Glad I'm not the only one, lol. I am kind of considering adding more bedfans to maybe help.

How are you planning on mourning the radiant insulation? Like between the frame and panels?

I spaced out my ACM panels about 1/2" wider than stock to accomodate the radiant barrier inside the frame while still giving the gantry space to move. I'm somewhat on the fence about how permanent I want the insulation to be. Kapton tape around the edges is removable and might just pass the "good enough" threshold, even though it will prevent me from going completely edge to edge.

Vacuum insulated panel

This sounds pretty complicated. I think you could accomplish similar with a traditional double pane setup. The Linneo Nanonest is a double pane panel you can use in cllicky-clacky, but it was out of stock when I ordered my parts.

I spent a tiny amount of time looking at r-values for the various panels and they're all not that high TBH. If you don't mind the look, an external layer of foam insulation is going to be by far the best bang for your buck.

I'll follow up with radiant insulation in a week or two.

Sounds like an epic build! I loled at the Santa bit, haha.

Anyway... It has been a lot more fun and educational modding the printer then making silly doodads and fidget toys with it for sure

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. I fall somewhere closer to the "I use my printer to make things", but I certainly spend time fiddling with my printer too.

Unless something has changed, it looks like the LDO kits still come with acrylic panels? ACM panels are an aluminum, plastic, aluminum sandwich. You cant see through them. I also didn't see the sex bolt or door.

Enjoy the build! The LDO kits are a solid base to start from.

There's no denying that the build will take you a while - especially if you have a family and/or demanding job. There also isn't a great MMU option, which is a good reason to look elsewhere given your interest. I am vaguely interested in a MMU, but more so from a dual extruder perspective so I can print a pair like ASA and PETG for removable supports. Their printing temperature needs aren't compatible enough for a single extruder to make much sense.

There's no need to tweak and tune. I am in the camp of having a printer to print things, vs endlessly tune the printer, and my Voron is set it and forget it at this point. There are some mods worth going after for quality of life, but none are really necessary. I put a list into another reply to the person you just replied to.

2x on the recommendation. I've been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.

Things I wish I did sooner:

• sexbolt aka a z-endstop switch that won't fall out when turn your printer out or get pulled out by your extruder when you're printing TPU
• moar bed fans to get chamber temps up faster
• daylight on a stick
• LDO NiteHawk and umbilical. The third wire break was enough for me. I didn't use cheap wiring, but I did use generic chains. I thought I left enough slack in the runs, but evidently you want loose loose wires in the chains so they don't rub the inner radius
• ACM panels to help get chamber temps up. Bonus points if you print your magnetic panels clips a bit taller to fit radiant barriers on the inside
• Clicky-clacky fridge door replaces the front doors with a wider panel and gives it a nice seal. It's also satisfying to open/close

Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it's been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.

If you don't care about multi-material, go off the deep end and build a Voron!

I don't think we will reach the point of walled gardens for finding/downloading STLs. A lot of us are massive nerds and someone will stand up another STL host. There's also GitHub, but without a STL aggregator it does kind of stink.

Most of the STLs are also developed by the community and are generally free themselves, although some are trying to create a revenue stream for themselves on places like Cults. I don't think that's a walled gardens though - creators are choosing to post their content there and ask $$ for it. Unless someone like Bambu pays top dollar for models, I don't think they'll be able to take over the STL market.

Having gone through the Voron build, I would call it long vs hard. I am mechanically inclined and have crimped wiring before though.

Mechanically, if you're not intimidated by IKEA furniture you'll be fine. You do need a largeish flat surface to get the 2020 rails to all be flat when you snug them up, but a kitchen counter will do if you don't have anything else.

Wiring wise, if you're willing to spring for a ratcheting crimper with the correct die size for your terminal and wire gauge it becomes foolproof. If you use a non-ratcheting type grab some extra wire and terminals to practice on. Too lose = poor connection. Too tight = you'll break the wires.

The Voron docs are pretty easy to follow and their forums are pretty solid for help. They also have a discord, but I'm old and prefer BBS style posts.

Why not just let the bed cool down and knock them off with the gantry if you have a CoreXY? On a PEI sheet, parts usually pop off once it cools down. Those bed fans do seem pretty nicely integrated though.

In the early COVID days, some were batch printing face guards and what not to donate. I agree with you re:home use though.

Could? Sure. I don't think the result would be great from a resolution or strength perspective. Thinner walls also seem like they would be hard to pull off, especially compared to SLS.